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I have ten 10/22s and most are vintage Carbines, Sporters and Delux rifles with a little trigger work and a nice scope thrown on. A couple are dressed up in nice wood stocks and one has a folding stock on it and an Aimpoint. But I have one NIB and am thinking of making it as accurate as possible.

Would I be better off starting with a Target 10/22 or this standard carbine? I'm not one to think a 22 is a 100 yard rifle but would like to get the absolute best group at 50 yards. My budget is $1,000 for rifle, stock, trigger, barrel and scope. I know ammo will play a big part but for now lets just talk firearm.

So what are your suggestions?
 

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I built one using NO ruger parts at all. I used Kidd receiver, trigger group, and bolt. Decided on a whistle pig barrel and used a Boyd stock with Harris bipod and tried a BSA sweet .22 (worried it would be junk because of the price but at $40 on Amazon I was willing to try. It is great. I should have and likely will however get the 6-18 w/side focus) Off the bipod on a calm day it is a nail driver at 100 yards. Wind I am sure will be a bit more challenging. Good luck with what ever you decide.
 

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That was the goal for my build, a 50 yd tack driver....I have a kidd 18" stainless BBL. hornet triger..kidd bolt..and a houge stock...it shot really well for me with CCI mini mags...I picked up 100 rnds of ELEY over the weekend...I'm going back out today or tommorow and shoot the ELEY and minimags and see what happens...
 

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Would I be better off starting with a Target 10/22 or this standard carbine? I'm not one to think a 22 is a 100 yard rifle but would like to get the absolute best group at 50 yards. My budget is $1,000 for rifle, stock, trigger, barrel and scope. I know ammo will play a big part but for now lets just talk firearm.

So what are your suggestions?
Start with a basic carbine, used if you can find one. From there the rest begins. First though a bit more of what particular look you might be after or styles that are a definite "no".
Could easily start suggesting barrels, triggers, optics, etc but knowing more would help.

BTW, do it right and it's easily a 100yd shooter. ;)
 

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Start with a basic carbine, used if you can find one. From there the rest begins. First though a bit more of what particular look you might be after or styles that are a definite "no".
Could easily start suggesting barrels, triggers, optics, etc but knowing more would help.

BTW, do it right and it's easily a 100yd shooter. ;)
I already have a NIB Standard Carbine so would want to start with that. I prefer more traditional looking firearms but am thinking function over form on this one. I want it to shoot the tighest groups possible and nothing else. It doesn't need to look tacti-cool, make a cup of coffee or light up the night.

What I'm thinking is it needs three things: a good barrel, a good trigger, and a good scope. This will be a strick bench rifle.
 

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You probably already know my answer. :eek: No way in HADES that I'd put $1K in a 10/22. IMO no matter how much you put in it a 10/22 will never be a serious target rifle. OTOH ...if it makes you happy ...who am I to say otherwise. If you want the 'tightest groups possible' ...buy an Anschutz. :D





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or a M77/22 converted.. I shoot against a guy at our range with an Anschutz and we tie at most shoots. Last week at 25yds we had a 10 round shoot off at match heads..I got all 10 he got 9 and a part.. I think it has more to do with the guy BEHIND the rifle than the rifle..

wPm
 

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I already have a NIB Standard Carbine so would want to start with that. I prefer more traditional looking firearms but am thinking function over form on this one. I want it to shoot the tighest groups possible and nothing else. It doesn't need to look tacti-cool, make a cup of coffee or light up the night.

What I'm thinking is it needs three things: a good barrel, a good trigger, and a good scope. This will be a strick bench rifle.
Don't forget about the option of having Q re-chamber the factory barrel...cheap...I think he gets $65 for them done...should be more accurate...especially at 50yards...worst can happen is you wind up buying a bull barrel later and put the upgraded factory barrel on one of your stock carbines...hard to loose on that deal for someone with as many stock carbines as you have... :D

To really make a small hole you need a relatively big scope...especially at 50 yards...tje smaller the spot you can see on the target the more consistent you can be with maintaining the exact same poa on every shot...if it were me I'd get at least a 6-18x44 AO/TT-1/8moa for that purpose...

The problem with the factory stock (even if you channel it for a bull barrel like I did with my DSP) with a scope is the lack of a good cheek rest...which is going to make a measurable difference for sure...but that can be fixed...and if you re-chamber the factory barrel you won't have much to do to the stock other than add a cheek rest...Archangel makes a heavy synthetic target stock that IMO is pretty good for bench shooting (not so much for off hand due to lack of heel drop)...uses stock or bull barrel...has a flat bottom fore end for sand bag rests and a mount for a bi-pod...comes in black or drab green...has a tunable rubber barrel mount...

A thumbhole stock WILL give you a more consistent/steady trigger pull...and for the same trigger pull weight...the trigger pulls a lot easier...

You could start with a Brimstone trigger you already have and see how it plays...then upgrade if you feel it's making a difference...

Just my thoughts... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't forget about the option of having Q re-chamber the factory barrel...cheap...I think he gets $65 for them done...should be more accurate...especially at 50yards...worst can happen is you wind up buying a bull barrel later and put the upgraded factory barrel on one of your stock carbines...hard to loose on that deal for someone with as many stock carbines as you have... :D

To really make a small hole you need a relatively big scope...especially at 50 yards...tje smaller the spot you can see on the target the more consistent you can be with maintaining the exact same poa on every shot...if it were me I'd get at least a 6-18x44 AO/TT-1/8moa for that purpose...

The problem with the factory stock (even if you channel it for a bull barrel like I did with my DSP) with a scope is the lack of a good cheek rest...which is going to make a measurable difference for sure...but that can be fixed...and if you re-chamber the factory barrel you won't have much to do to the stock other than add a cheek rest...Archangel makes a heavy synthetic target stock that IMO is pretty good for bench shooting (not so much for off hand due to lack of heel drop)...uses stock or bull barrel...has a flat bottom fore end for sand bag rests and a mount for a bi-pod...comes in black or drab green...has a tunable rubber barrel mount...

A thumbhole stock WILL give you a more consistent/steady trigger pull...and for the same trigger pull weight...the trigger pulls a lot easier...

You could start with a Brimstone trigger you already have and see how it plays...then upgrade if you feel it's making a difference...

Just my thoughts... :D
I just bought three of these, two in SS and one OD. I needed some extras so I can keep a trigger housing in all of them and still be working on a trigger. I have five stock triggers that need work done to them.

http://5003.webpossystem.com/ViewProduct.asp?ModelNumber=BBT-ZTUO-SS-Pins

I was thinking the same thing as you talked about on the scope. I'm waiting for the anti-gun dust to settle before buying a key-hole stock.
 

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If you plan to get a thumbhole stock you might at well get a steel bull barrel...

Iowegan has the GM 20" and gets some very tight groups at 75yards...with a cheap scope no less...

If you get a threaded barrel you can add a barrel tuner...

For bench rest only heavier is better imo...

Look forward to seeing what you wind up doing and what it does for accuracy...!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you plan to get a thumbhole stock you might at well get a steel bull barrel...

Iowegan has the GM 20" and gets some very tight groups at 75yards...with a cheap scope no less...

If you get a threaded barrel you can add a barrel tuner...

For bench rest only heavier is better imo...

Look forward to seeing what you wind up doing and what it does for accuracy...!
This is a project that might not see daylight for a couple months. I currently have two projects already started. They aren't as complex and almost complete but I want to shoot them first. Plus I have some finishing touches on three others that need to be completed.
 

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Why?

I have ten 10/22s and most are vintage Carbines, Sporters and Delux rifles with a little trigger work and a nice scope thrown on. A couple are dressed up in nice wood stocks and one has a folding stock on it and an Aimpoint. But I have one NIB and am thinking of making it as accurate as possible.

Would I be better off starting with a Target 10/22 or this standard carbine? I'm not one to think a 22 is a 100 yard rifle but would like to get the absolute best group at 50 yards. My budget is $1,000 for rifle, stock, trigger, barrel and scope. I know ammo will play a big part but for now lets just talk firearm.

So what are your suggestions?
Why would you have ten 10/22's? You only have 2 hands.
 

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I think you start with the base carbine and upgrade the barrel, stock,& put a decent scope on it. I don't think it takes much for a 50-75 yard tackdriver.
 

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Why not? Why have more than one of anything? 15 complete 10/22's and 3 in progress with more after that here.
Sounds like fun!
 

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Why would you have ten 10/22's? You only have 2 hands.
I have over 40 10/22s ...and don't intend on stopping any time soon.



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I think it would be cool to see a "skeletonized" take down with a bull barrel. Not sure if the bull barrel is possible, but it would be cool to see a suitcase 10/22 that you could put together piece by piece in a minute, and shoot quarters at 50 yards. Jason Bourne style.
 
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