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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 10/22 that I recently added a scope to and now the action isn't fully loading the cartridge. :mad: The action was locked open during the process and would not release after the installation. I was eventually able to "force" the action forward. I disassembled the trigger and bolt assembly and found that I was too aggressive with the thread locker. :eek: There were two spots of thread locker on top of the bolt and receiver. I lightly scraped and buffed the foreign material away. Now the action won't fully load a cartridge, it lacks about 1/4" of fully loading.


I can remove the magazine, slightly pull back on the bolt then release it, then the riffle will fire and eject the cartridge normally.

Is it possible that I bent something by forcing the action open? Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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The screws for your scope base are probably seated too deep and are binding on the top of the bolt.
 

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Is the ejector installed correctly?
 

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i just posted on a somewhat related thread-- i wonder (as was the case with my 10/22 TD seizing up) if it: a) needs additional cleaning, or b) needs less oil when cleaning. i suspect i may have gunked mine up with oil, which may have made things sticky/seizy. just a thought...
 

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If all you did was install a scope and your rifle cycled properly before that, then something is causing the bolt to bind.

If you disassembled the trigger group, you may have not reassembled it correctly. If you could post a picture of the trigger group we might be able to figure out what the problem may be.
 

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I was eventually able to "force" the action forward. I disassembled the trigger and bolt assembly and found that I was too aggressive with the thread locker. :eek: There were two spots of thread locker on top of the bolt and receiver. I lightly scraped and buffed the foreign material away. Now the action won't fully load a cartridge, it lacks about 1/4" of fully loading.
Your pictures say, "Password required," so I can't see them. and I'm not going to "guess" what might have occurred.

So I'm not sure what the problem is. But it sounds as if it were "created."

So here's a tip for you and anyone else who likes working on firearms.

My father, who was not a professional gunsmith but could have been, told me something maybe 50 years ago that still holds true today. Obviously, I have never forgotten it.

"If you have to get "real strong" with a gun to make something work, don't do it. The gun's trying to tell you something. Listen to it."

If this happens to me, I just put it down and walk away from it for awhile and then go back and try to figure out what's happening and why it's happening.

Working on firearms can be frustrating at times. Never let a malfunctioning firearm get you pissed off cuz that's when the tendency to "get strong" with it comes charging right out. It's never a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your pictures say, "Password required," so I can't see them. and I'm not going to "guess" what might have occurred.

So I'm not sure what the problem is. But it sounds as if it were "created."

So here's a tip for you and anyone else who likes working on firearms.

My father, who was not a professional gunsmith but could have been, told me something maybe 50 years ago that still holds true today. Obviously, I have never forgotten it.

"If you have to get "real strong" with a gun to make something work, don't do it. The gun's trying to tell you something. Listen to it."

If this happens to me, I just put it down and walk away from it for awhile and then go back and try to figure out what's happening and why it's happening.

Working on firearms can be frustrating at times. Never let a malfunctioning firearm get you pissed off cuz that's when the tendency to "get strong" with it comes charging right out. It's never a good idea.
VERY good advise! Thanks.
 

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VERY good advise! Thanks.
You're entirely welcome and I'm glad you took it in the spirit it was offered.

In the sometimes testerone laden world of guns and gun guys a lot of folks might have gotten angry at that little tip and taken it personally for some reason.

That little tip has saved a lot of folks lots of trips to the gunsmith and subsequently lots of money.

I can't tell you how many times I was home and other "gun guys" would call the old man asking for help/advice dealing with a firearm malfunction.

The very first thing he would say is, "First, don't get strong with it. If you do, you'll probably make things worse."

He was a smart guy. I miss him.

I can't wait for the correct diagnosis of the problem and it's solution. Please keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You're entirely welcome and I'm glad you took it in the spirit it was offered.

In the sometimes testerone laden world of guns and gun guys a lot of folks might have gotten angry at that little tip and taken it personally for some reason.

That little tip has saved a lot of folks lots of trips to the gunsmith and subsequently lots of money.

I can't tell you how many times I was home and other "gun guys" would call the old man asking for help/advice dealing with a firearm malfunction.

The very first thing he would say is, "First, don't get strong with it. If you do, you'll probably make things worse."

He was a smart guy. I miss him.

I can't wait for the correct diagnosis of the problem and it's solution. Please keep us posted.
I have learned that it is better to have a humble attitude than a prideful one!

I will keep you posted on the diagnosis.
 

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I wonder.......there was no mention of what ammo you were using. It could be the ammo casing. I have had issues with Winchester 555 bulk where I had multiple jams.
 

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When the receiver is empty it cycles fine. It's only when the bolt picks up a round from the mag that the jam occurs. The spring pin appears to be straight, no noticeable bend or curve.
there is friction somewhere...whether it be screws seated to deep and maybe puckered the aluminum receiver or you dumped lock-tite into the receiver...take it apart and use your fingers and rub all along the receiver and the bolt faces to check...also look for metal to metal rub marks....Hint for future references...NEVER PUT LOCK-TITE INTO SCREW HOLES....ONLY ON SCREW THREADS....
 

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I agree with Tiger Ruger, It may simply be the Ammo you are using. If you have scraped the thread lock off and cleaned it it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update update update...

I ended up sending the riffle back to the factory. They installed a new complete bolt. "RUGER" did not charge me for the repair. I was surprised since I purchased the gun in 2005. The only cost for me was shipping to the factory.

Ruger is definitely a QUALITY manufacturer that stands behind their product.
I see more Rugers in my future.::D

Thanks for all the post replies and emails.
 
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