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Discussion Starter #1
What are some of the more popular modifications for the 10/22 for accuracy,etc? I've seen mention of aftermarket parts,but just how many "good" parts are there that actually enhance the rifle for accuracy and ease of use?
I'm sure some things are for the "bling" factor,or other non-useful purposes,and I'm not really interested in those-I'm looking for functionality.
JL
 

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jlangton, The real 10/22 accuracy issues mostly come from the barrel. The best fix is to replace the barrel with one of the many good aftermarket barrels. I opted for the Green Mountain 20" bull barrel (under $100). My groups at 75 yards went from 4 or 5 inches to under an inch with most any ammo and under .5" with good ammo. Of course that required some work on the stock channel to accommodate the larger diameter barrel. I used a Butler Creek folding stock but there are several aftermarket stocks that come with the .920" barrel channel.

Lighter triggers help so you might consider one of the drop-in trigger job kits. I just did some polishing and my trigger went down to a very crisp 3.5 lbs. Extended mag releases are a nice option but do nothing for accuracy. I made my own extended mag release by drilling and tapping a hole then installing an Allen head screw. Most of the other internal parts are just "blings" but fun none the less.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So,just a bit of wood clearancing to get the 20" bull barrel to fit,and it'd be good to go,eh?
I'm likely to do a bit of polishing on my trigger as well-I know the heavy,scratchy trigger is causing a bit of pull when shooting.
JL
 

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+1 on the barrel as a first stop. If you don't want to go bull, there are other options. GM (Green Mountain) also makes some sporter diminsioned barrels, but you will still have to do some minor fitting to a factory contoured stock to get it to fit right. Another option, and one that I have done twice now, is to have your factory barrel worked on. I have had two of mine set-back, re-chambered, and re-crowned with great results. These services can usually be had for about the same amount or a little bit less than a new barrel, and in the case of the two that I had done, shoot better than a comparably priced aftermarket manufacturer.

FWIW

JJ
 

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jlangton,
Improved functionality can be achieved with very little expense.
As has previously been noted the barrel is a huge part of accuracy. GM Barrels have been a great bang for the buck but they're harder to find now that they have a gov contract. The ER Shaw barrel is just as good and should be available at various vendors for the same prices as GM.
You can save the stock money by hoggin' out your existing stock channel with a simple tool! An electrical sweep works wonders! Some like appropriate sized sockets



Unless your very comfortable tweeking your hammer sear engagement surfaces I'd recommend a Power Custom Hammer which will put your pull right at 2.75 lbs for $30.00 Don't use their springs which are included.
You can make a buffer out of 1/4" fuel line which will out live ya!


You can make or modify the existing mag release fairly simply for pennies.



A bolt release is accomplished by a simple modification via a dremel.


I like a hex headed stock screw to avoid scaring my stock.


Actually on a different level than shooting it's a whole bunch of fun doing this stuff yourself!


SD
 

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jlangton,
Check the stickies at rimfirecental.com, that well cover just about every mod. If you rebarrel, I would recommend doing the bolt, radius the back, pin the firing pin and square and set headspace. Also do the MK series mod on the extractor, or buy an aftermarket one. The bull barrels have very tight chambers. You can get close to 1/4 MOA groups @ 50yds with just a barrel and modified oem parts.
 

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What are some of the more popular modifications for the 10/22 for accuracy,etc? I've seen mention of aftermarket parts,but just how many "good" parts are there that actually enhance the rifle for accuracy and ease of use?
I'm sure some things are for the "bling" factor,or other non-useful purposes,and I'm not really interested in those-I'm looking for functionality.
JL
I have the stainless target model with 20 inch bull barrel......and I did virtually nothing to it.....which is unusual for me because I almost always tune my guns. The gun has more accuracy than I am capable of......... so there's no need for me to play with it. I always recommend an aftermarket, urethane bolt stop pin on the 10-22. It gets rid of the metal-to-metal...... slam-bang...... when the bolt stops at the end of its recoil stroke ....as it contacts the OEM steel pin. Song Dawg's 1/4 inch fuel line buffer sounds like a winner to me.
 

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Reading through the thread ... there are a couple of things I picked up. madcratebuilder stated "You can get close to 1/4 MOA groups @ 50yds". 1 MOA @ 100 yds is 1" so at 50 yds 1/4 MOA is a 1/8" group. Must be a typo .... even a match grade target rifle won't shoot that tight.

The buffered bolt stop pin is mostly a farce ... in fact could result in poor ejection. Ruger designed the bolt with a large contact surface with the bolt stop pin. I've never seen the bolt or the pin get damaged or worn even with 10's of thousands of rounds fired. It does reduce the metal-to-metal clank but that's just not a big deal. This classic "bling" doesn't hurt anything ... it just doesn't improve function at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Reading through the thread ... there are a couple of things I picked up. madcratebuilder stated "You can get close to 1/4 MOA groups @ 50yds". 1 MOA @ 100 yds is 1" so at 50 yds 1/4 MOA is a 1/8" group. Must be a typo .... even a match grade target rifle won't shoot that tight.

The buffered bolt stop pin is mostly a farce ... in fact could result in poor ejection. Ruger designed the bolt with a large contact surface with the bolt stop pin. I've never seen the bolt or the pin get damaged or worn even with 10's of thousands of rounds fired. It does reduce the metal-to-metal clank but that's just not a big deal. This classic "bling" doesn't hurt anything ... it just doesn't improve function at all.
I'm not really concerned with the clack on each shot-I'm looking for better accuracy only. I'm looking at a few barrels right now-just kinda on the back burner for now until I round up those old WW2 relics I've had my eyes on,and a new AR15 style rifle too.
JL
 

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Reading through the thread ... there are a couple of things I picked up. madcratebuilder stated "You can get close to 1/4 MOA groups @ 50yds". 1 MOA @ 100 yds is 1" so at 50 yds 1/4 MOA is a 1/8" group. Must be a typo .... even a match grade target rifle won't shoot that tight.

The buffered bolt stop pin is mostly a farce ... in fact could result in poor ejection. Ruger designed the bolt with a large contact surface with the bolt stop pin. I've never seen the bolt or the pin get damaged or worn even with 10's of thousands of rounds fired. It does reduce the metal-to-metal clank but that's just not a big deal. This classic "bling" doesn't hurt anything ... it just doesn't improve function at all.
Good catch Iowegan, I was thinking 1/4" group @ 50yds, not 1/4 moa, an 1/8" group is hard to do at 25yds. Some day I well get five 1/8" groups on one piece of paper, even if I have to tape it together.:D
 

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I bought my 10/22 because, well, because everyone praised them as being great rifles. Mine wasn't so great. I messed around with different ammo and some cheap scopes, but nothing seemed to work. It would not perform well and the factory sights left a lot to be desired.

It sat in my safe for a couple of years, while I considered selling it, but something just wouldn't let me do that. I was lucky enough to land a job at Leupold, the scope maker, where I befriended one of the engineers / gunsmiths. One day over coffee, the subject of .22's came up. I told him that I wasn't happy with the 10/22, and he said to bring it in and he'd take a look.

First we replaced the barrel and stock with Butler Creek stock and carbon barrel. We replaced the recoil buffer and he told me the head space was out of whack. He put the bolt on one of Leupold's CNC milling machines, and took off some ridiculously small amount of metal. Add a quick trigger job and a 4x fixed Leupold scope and viola, it's a tack driver. I swear I can hit mosquitoes at 50 yards with it. :cool:

The rifle likes CCI mini-mag ammo, but will shoot just about everything equally well. It isn't fancy looking, but it has become a family heirloom. My son wants it, but he's gonna have to wait. There are squirrels and rats that need to die sudden death!

By-the-way, it's pronounced Lew-pold, not Lee-a-pold.

 

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By-the-way, it's pronounced Lew-pold, not Lee-a-pold.

Glad to hear your success story. I've never seen one that couldn't be helped with a little cash and TLC!
Oh, and thanks for the assist in helping me win some semi serious money from several very arrogant friends about the scope pronunciation! :)

SD
 

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One comment concerning your quest for accuracy. At the club I belong to,we have a number of members that went whole hog tricking out their 10/22s. A number purchased Clarks and put high dollar Leupold 6.5-20s on them, and then there were a whole raft of the do-it yourself copies. They all shot great.

Where this is going, we had a lot of impromtu matches with these and a fellow showed up with a stock 10/22 and was using some standard velocity ammo that his gun favored. I was amazed watching him shoot at 100 yards. He shot some excellent targets. As with most .22 RFs it seems that finding the right ammo is one key.

You might do what the match pisotleros do with their .22s and buy a bunch of different ammos and see if your gun favors one over the other.

Back when Russian Junior ammo was still available a friend and I did some serious work looking for a combo that his gun liked. We found one lot that his gun loved, provided that you wiped all fo the excess lube off. With the lube left on, heis shots went all over the place. When we removed the lube, he was capable of holding the 10-ring on the 100 yard small bore target.
 

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Yes, every 1022 has it's favorite ammo! I shoot a bunch of 1022's and I've learned that once in a while a stocker can come along and surprise the high dollar conversions. However often it's the headspacing of the bolt which can vary in these assembly line shooters which makes much of the difference.

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There are a lot of whats called a 'super stock' 10/22. Re-machine the oem barrel to a match chamber, a couple of bolt mods, and you have a fine shooter. Some shoot as well as the high dollar target barreled ones, and look bone stock.
 

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Song Dawg, Please explain what you meant "However often it's the headspacing of the bolt which can vary in these assembly line shooters".

By definition, headspace is the distance between the head of the case and the breach face (applies to all firearms that use a cartridge). A rimfire cartridge uses the rim as a limit, thus it "headspaces on the rim" or in other words ... the rim is what prevents the cartridge from seating farther in the chamber. In a spring loaded semi-auto like a 10/22 or a MK series pistol, the bolt is pushed forward under spring tension so headspace can't help but being "zero".

What I've seen in 10/22s are the "generous" chambers that enhance feeding but don't do accuracy any favors. A typical non-semi-auto rimfire 22 rifle will have a bore diameter of .221" which is just about perfect for a .222" lead bullet. The 10/22's bore diameters tend to run right at .222". This slightly loose bore and chamber will allow some of the propelling gasses to escape around the bullet. In a tighter bore and chamber, the bullet seals better and doesn't lose near as much pressure. In theory, if you chronograph several 10/22s with the same ammo, the one with the highest average velocity will have the best accuracy. That's because loss of propelling gasses lowers the muzzle velocity. This helps explain why some brands or types of ammo are more accurate than others. The bullet design may help prevent pressure losses in one brand whereas another brand may allow more pressure to escape.
 

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Song Dawg, Please explain what you meant "However often it's the headspacing of the bolt which can vary in these assembly line shooters".

By definition, headspace is the distance between the head of the case and the breach face (applies to all firearms that use a cartridge). A rimfire cartridge uses the rim as a limit, thus it "headspaces on the rim" or in other words ... the rim is what prevents the cartridge from seating farther in the chamber. In a spring loaded semi-auto like a 10/22 or a MK series pistol, the bolt is pushed forward under spring tension so headspace can't help but being "zero".

What I've seen in 10/22s are the "generous" chambers that enhance feeding but don't do accuracy any favors. A typical non-semi-auto rimfire 22 rifle will have a bore diameter of .221" which is just about perfect for a .222" lead bullet. The 10/22's bore diameters tend to run right at .222". This slightly loose bore and chamber will allow some of the propelling gasses to escape around the bullet. In a tighter bore and chamber, the bullet seals better and doesn't lose near as much pressure. In theory, if you chronograph several 10/22s with the same ammo, the one with the highest average velocity will have the best accuracy. That's because loss of propelling gasses lowers the muzzle velocity. This helps explain why some brands or types of ammo are more accurate than others. The bullet design may help prevent pressure losses in one brand whereas another brand may allow more pressure to escape.
Just saw your question Iowegan!
Let's see if I can clarify my statement. I'm talking about the depth of the bolt face.
.042 seems to be the optimal depth. This depth can vary considerably from the factory. Machining these guys to this depth is popular currently.

SD
 

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Song Dawg, That's what I was afraid you were going to say. Yes indeed, milling the bolt face does tighten headspace but I sure would not recommended it without good machining and measuring equipment. First, it can be dangerous. When headspace is snug, you run the risk of a slam fire. That's where the bolt slams against the rim when cycling and makes the cartridge fire. All it takes is a little piece of crud between the bolt and rim. Next is firing pin protrusion. Ruger's design includes a firing pin stop to prevent the firing pin from hitting the chamber mouth. If you mill the bolt face, you must also mill the tip of the firing pin by an equal amount. If you don't, the firing pin will demo the chamber mouth.

I don't like to see these types of modifications posted without telling the whole story and quite possibly, you didn't know the rest of the story. Fact is, if this modification done in less than a machine shop environment (think kitchen table), it can be dangerous and it can result in a damaged-beyond-repair barrel. To me, it's just not worth the risk and there's no guarantee of tighter groups.
 

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First of all I didn't make a recommendation as to this or any other modification. To suggest otherwise is inacuurate and unfair!


Here's the quote: "However often it's the headspacing of the bolt which can vary in these assembly line shooters which makes much of the difference."

Secondly none of MY 1022's, target or stockers have had this machining done. Maybe I'm just lucky but mine shoot great!:)

The statement addressed the fact that assembly line bolts vary in their spacing from the factory which translates to varying accuracy.

Additionally, one particular gunsmith with a very good track record has done countless numbers of these as an accurizing method. He's very popular on a particular rimfire site. I believe he takes them all to .0425
http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAtCPC/CPC1022BoltRework/index.html


Since the depths vary from say .042-.043 from the factory then it sounds as though you're saying that some of these stock issues are dangerous.

Nowhere is there as much as a suggestion that this mod is a roll your own project.

So no need to be afraid unless you're suggesting that Rugers inconsistent bolt facings are a safety issue.

SD
 
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