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Code Slinger
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One of the best modifications I've done to my 10/22 is a trigger job. The rifle has a decent factory trigger feel, but after listening to the machinist at Tucker Gun brag about how well his 10/22 trigger jobs come out, I decided to go for it. The trigger job set me back $40, and he tapped and threaded the trigger to add a trigger stop, and polished all the sear and hammer contact points. The triggers come out to around 2.25 lbs, so I wouldn't recommend doing this to a non-bench gun.

http://www.tuckergunllc.com/
 

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That sure is light. That would take some getting use to. I never done any bench shooting. Is there a reason for such a light trigger? To me that would take a lot of disapline to do.
 

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nice, i sent mine out for a trigger job, never did measure it but its been stoned and polished i added a trigger stop, extened mag release, fixed the bolt release, added a buffer, all the basic stuff lol.

i have 2 barrels, stock stainless with an eagle flash hider, i would take it off but it lends to accuracy, shoots way better with it on. the other is a cut down factory barrel, just long enough to be legal, removed the flip up rear sight since the front sight was gone. its great for the woods and thick brush.
 

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Code Slinger
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Discussion Starter #4
The tigger is light, but this is only .5 lb under the standard for competition rifles. I think any aftermarket 10/22 hammer and sear set will get you in the 2.75 lb range.

I would not have a trigger near this light if it wasn't a bench gun.

Creepyrat, I am sure your trigger will come back in ~2.5-2.75 range as well. Let us know. :)
 

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I recently received a 10/22 from my great uncle. It's at least 10 years old and new in the box. I've shot the guts out of a Marlin Model 60, so he thought I might need to try the 10/22 on for size.
 

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Code Slinger
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Discussion Starter #6
Marlin Model 60 is very accurate and has a micro-grooved(tm) barrel. My grandfather gave me a Model 60 when I was ~12. Unfortunatly when I was living in an apartment many years ago someone broke in and took it.
 

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My dad still has his old Marlin Model 60 that is very accurate and it is the first rifle that I have ever shot as a young teenager.
 

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The 10/22 that I have has an black anodized aluminum receiver. The steel cross pin at the rear of the receiver that stops the bolt's rearward movement has elongated the holes in the alum receiver to the point that if I remove the stock this pin immediately falls out.

Anyone ever noticed this or had it occur and if so, how did you resolve it without taking it to a gunsmith?
 

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quote:Originally posted by Ledberel

The 10/22 that I have has an black anodized aluminum receiver. The steel cross pin at the rear of the receiver that stops the bolt's rearward movement has elongated the holes in the alum receiver to the point that if I remove the stock this pin immediately falls out.

Anyone ever noticed this or had it occur and if so, how did you resolve it without taking it to a gunsmith?
I'm not sure how a smithy would fix this problem. Perhaps drill the cross bolt hole bigger to true up the hole then insert a larger bolt. Why not post this in the gunsmith section, am sure Iowegan can help you.

As an aside, if you don't have a bolt buffer, INSTALL one! Its an inexpensive modification and you can do it yourself. :)
 

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quote:Originally posted by sheepdog

Does this slow down wear or improve shooting??
Its a urethane buffer that replaces the factory stop pin. It cushions the blow when the bolt slams back into the steel bolt stop pin. It also gives you a quieter gun. It takes the "clack-clack" out of the bolt slamming into the steel stop pin.

All you need to do is remove the barrel and receiver from the stock, drift out the factory steel stop pin thats behind the bolt. Just add a drop of gun oil to help ease the replacement urethane buffer into it (it'll be a tight fit).

I recommend this guy and his products:


http://www.weaponkraft.itgo.com/


Piece-a-cake! [8D]
 

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Republican!!!
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One of the best modifications I've done to my 10/22 is a trigger job. The rifle has a decent factory trigger feel, but after listening to the machinist at Tucker Gun brag about how well his 10/22 trigger jobs come out, I decided to go for it. The trigger job set me back $40, and he tapped and threaded the trigger to add a trigger stop, and polished all the sear and hammer contact points. The triggers come out to around 2.25 lbs, so I wouldn't recommend doing this to a non-bench gun.

http://www.tuckergunllc.com/
Other posters have had good success with Ruger service. Just remember to keep your contact cordial. Ruger doesn't have a warranty and isn't bound by law to fix or replace your firearm. Just stay nice and they usually bend over backwards to keep their customers happy.
 

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Other posters have had good success with Ruger service. Just remember to keep your contact cordial. Ruger doesn't have a warranty and isn't bound by law to fix or replace your firearm. Just stay nice and they usually bend over backwards to keep their customers happy.
You realize you replied to an old thread that had no responses for seven years? :-0
 

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Anything less than factory, especially a two pound or even three pound is way too light IMO. With a trigger that light if you ever did drop it by accident (accidents can happen) there is a good possibility that it could go off. To each his own, but I choose to keep mine as intended from the factory. Just not comfortable altering the trigger group. It's just not worth all the extra time and money to alter my gun for what amounts to very little gain IMO.
 

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I did it for the HTA Bullpup stock.
Adding the stock to the factory 10/22 creates about an 8lb pull.
Doing this trigger work + stock = roughly 4lb pull.

So that's my reasoning. :)
 

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Gotcha. Yeah 8 lb is way too much. I see your reasoning for it now. Still too light a trigger for me but whatever you like for your own rifle is what matters. It's what makes the Ruger 10/22 so awesome. So many aftermarket products and accessories to make your gun unique to you. Ruger is the best.
 
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