Ruger Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought my first 10/22 and after going over it, taking it down, and cleaning it, I can't say I'm too impressed.

1. The fit of the trigger group to the receiver is loose. When I pull the trigger, there is an intial hard 'click' as the entire trigger group rocks back before the trigger breaks.
Any suggestions on how to tighten this up?

2. Trigger pull- I guess I sort of expected a 9lb trigger pull as it seems everyone spend $30 on a new hammer to remedy this problem.

3. reciver/stock fit- this is atrocious. I don't know if its by design, but the receiver fits very loosely into the stock and it seems that the system has the action screw clamping the barrel into the barrel channel while the receiver sort of hangs off into space.
Has anyone relived the barrel channel and glass/devcon bedded the action to the stock? I'm considering doing this but there is very little wood left in the stock for bedding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,523 Posts
You can use masking tape to shim it up nicely with excellent results in a few minutes...

The thing to watch out for is you don't want to have a gap between the receiver and the stock at the take down bolt with the receiver bottom in contact with the stock bed in the rear and the barrel in contact with the fore end at the same time...this will create a "bow" when you tighten the take down screw...

To avoid that you can simply float the barrel...then shim or pillar bed the action including the gap under the v-block to prevent it from rocking fore/aft...or leave the receiver floating from the stock bed bottom in the rear...the hard part is to get all three flush fit but firm contact at the same time...pillar bedding will do that if done right but it is not quick and easy or free...floating the barrel and shimming with tape is very close to being both easy and free...

So what I am saying is that I would tape/shim the side and rear walls of the receiver bed but not the bottom of the receiver if the barrel is in contact with the fore end when the screw is tight...

I also use masking tape (blue) on the trigger group to receiver and to hold the pins in...again super fast and easy and very effective...

To take up most of the pre-travel in trigger use an adjustable sear...

A post-travel stop screw in the trigger is a very good thing too...

As you say the target hammer reduces pull weight by about 50%...

The three combined is what I like myself...

Kidd offers a parts kit that does all three (I think their sear is adjustable) for around $100...several people claim it to be the best but they never say why or how they know...it may be the best...I wouldn't know...

I used a VQ hammer/spring...power custom adjustable sear...and drilled/tapped my factory trigger for a 4mm x 8mm set screw...very happy with it all...if I had to do another one I would buy the Kidd package to find out if there is really a difference...

The hammers are considerably more than $30...closer to $50...

Power custom offers a hammer/spring/adjustable sear package for around $70 at midway...if you want to save $30 or so by drilling tapping your own trigger..

Triggers w/ stop screws are around $30...

Note that I started out with just a hammer and while the trigger pull was half the pre and post travel slop was very bad...then I installed a stop...much better...then I got the adjustable sear...

I personally would rather get rid of the slop with a stiff pull over just the hammer with all the slop still in it...

If you don't believe me simply install a stop in your trigger and with everything snugged up you will like having the stop a lot...almost free if you have the drill/tap/screw which are all cheap...a lot cheaper than a new trigger w/ a stop...

If you need help with dis-assembly/assembly triggershims.com has a nice video on youtube...I have their shim kit...glad I have it...there is less slop and drag with the shims...

The basic 10/22 is NOT a high end gun...hence the low price...gotta love it for what it is or pay the price to make it what you want it to be... :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You can use masking tape to shim it up nicely with excellent results in a few minutes...

The thing to watch out for is you don't want to have a gap between the receiver and the stock at the take down bolt with the receiver bottom in contact with the stock bed in the rear and the barrel in contact with the fore end at the same time...this will create a "bow" when you tighten the take down screw...

To avoid that you can simply float the barrel...then shim or pillar bed the action including the gap under the v-block to prevent it from rocking fore/aft...or leave the receiver floating from the stock bed bottom in the rear...the hard part is to get all three flush fit but firm contact at the same time...pillar bedding will do that if done right but it is not quick and easy or free...floating the barrel and shimming with tape is very close to being both easy and free...

So what I am saying is that I would tape/shim the side and rear walls of the receiver bed but not the bottom of the receiver if the barrel is in contact with the fore end when the screw is tight...

I also use masking tape (blue) on the trigger group to receiver and to hold the pins in...again super fast and easy and very effective...

To take up most of the pre-travel in trigger use an adjustable sear...

A post-travel stop screw in the trigger is a very good thing too...

As you say the target hammer reduces pull weight by about 50%...

The three combined is what I like myself...

Kidd offers a parts kit that does all three (I think their sear is adjustable) for around $100...several people claim it to be the best but they never say why or how they know...it may be the best...I wouldn't know...

I used a VQ hammer/spring...power custom adjustable sear...and drilled/tapped my factory trigger for a 4mm x 8mm set screw...very happy with it all...if I had to do another one I would buy the Kidd package to find out if there is really a difference...

The hammers are considerably more than $30...closer to $50...

Power custom offers a hammer/spring/adjustable sear package for around $70 at midway...if you want to save $30 or so by drilling tapping your own trigger..

Triggers w/ stop screws are around $30...

Note that I started out with just a hammer and while the trigger pull was half the pre and post travel slop was very bad...then I installed a stop...much better...then I got the adjustable sear...

I personally would rather get rid of the slop with a stiff pull over just the hammer with all the slop still in it...

If you don't believe me simply install a stop in your trigger and with everything snugged up you will like having the stop a lot...almost free if you have the drill/tap/screw which are all cheap...a lot cheaper than a new trigger w/ a stop...

If you need help with dis-assembly/assembly triggershims.com has a nice video on youtube...I have their shim kit...glad I have it...there is less slop and drag with the shims...

The basic 10/22 is NOT a high end gun...hence the low price...gotta love it for what it is or pay the price to make it what you want it to be...
Thanks!

It is what it is, an economical entry level rimfire.
I know, I know....
All of my .22 rifles are old remington and Mossberg bolt actions, so I've grown accostomed to a certain level of quality.:p
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
402 Posts
If that's what you accept that's what you get. Entry level my foot, buy other parts to make it right , my foot. Your complaints are for things that should never have left the factory. Keep it and it's yours, call Ruger and have them address the problems.
BE POLITE and detail what you think is wrong. They will fix it. Then if you want to do a build it's up to you. What about the person that just wants a nice shooting little carbine
without all the extra money spent. Your telling me a 10/22 ain't it? Sorry I don't buy it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,407 Posts
I don't consider any 10/22 as "entry level".

I have the Deluxe Sporter model. The stock/receiver/barrel fits are just fine. The trigger is not particularly smooth, but my guess is about 5-6 pounds. No worse than a Single-Six.

I had a standard Carbine model in the past, no issues with it, either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
f that's what you accept that's what you get. Entry level my foot, buy other parts to make it right , my foot. Your complaints are for things that should never have left the factory. Keep it and it's yours, call Ruger and have them address the problems.
BE POLITE and detail what you think is wrong. They will fix it. Then if you want to do a build it's up to you. What about the person that just wants a nice shooting little carbine
without all the extra money spent. Your telling me a 10/22 ain't it? Sorry I don't buy it.
I should consider sending it back then?

The sad thing about all of this was that I was going to buy a Henry lever .22, but bought the 10/22 instead due to its 'versatility.'
I guess I have some buyer's remorse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
I purchased my first 10/22 in 1983 and my last one a couple of months ago. Starting with the 300 prefix serials I noticed the quality start to nose dive with the very issues you mention. I purchased my last Henry a H001L in 2006 and have about 35Ks round thru it without a single issue. I think the Henry quality is actually going up in the last few years as I look at Henry's and Ruger's out on display every chance I get. Henry's product support has the edge over Ruger in my experience. I think thats because the owner of Henry is a day to day guy and very proud of his rifles. All that being said they are two different rifles for different purposes. Kind of like a tiling spade vs a round point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,523 Posts
I should consider sending it back then?

The sad thing about all of this was that I was going to buy a Henry lever .22, but bought the 10/22 instead due to its 'versatility.'
I guess I have some buyer's remorse.
No you are wasting your time sending it back...why would you send it back...what do you think they would do with it...answer...NOTHING...they are not going to pillar bed it for you and they are not going to buy you aftermarket parts to improve your trigger pull or take the slop out of it or remove the very excessive pre and post travel either...yours is the way they all are...including my 13 year old Deluxe Sporter...I didn't mind the loose fit receiver until I floated the barrel...then it was a HUGE problem...but very easily fixed for 0$$$...

If all you want is a snug fit shim the side and rear walls...leave the barrel in contact with the fore end...

Boyd's stocks claim perfect fit w/o bedding...the look nice too...the price is very reasonable too...

People say the knoxx axiom stock is very tight and perfect fit but it is a cheap plastic deal and cost almost as much as a Boyds...I don't know...I got a Fajen plastic silhouette stock and it was just as bad as the factory sporter with regard to loose fit in receiver bed....fixed it using the same method...the rest of the stock although plastic is VERY high quality imo...it was only $80 shipped...

Now that you have an 22 auto loader that is capable of a lot...and will be much improved on the cheap if you want it to be...including cheap tricks on the trigger if you like...

Maybe you need a Henry 17 hmr lever action for those longer range shots that you would still want a small caliber rimfire cartridge for... :D

IMO...you should not have buyer's remorse at all nor expect it to be on par for details of quality like a gun that cost twice as much...

For the right price I'll take the pos off your hands and you can get the Henry... :D:D:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Simple,
Give Ruger a call. Detail what is wrong. They will have you send it back. If they can't fix the problem they will send you another one.
If you call with a attitude they may tell you to pound sand up your A.
I have three 10/22 & all fit tight. 1993 Green-orange, laminate. 2012 Pink laminated & a 2012 Take-Down.
They are fit tight & shoot as a 10/22 plinker.
If you need more accuracy, like the man said, free floating barrel, trigger etc. i myself have a Bolt Action Savage Tactical 22. Heavy fluted free floating target barrel, adjustable trigger, Boyd stock, all from the factory. Just add Scope & rings.
I'm a little off topic, sorry.
Ruger should take care of it. They have one of the best Customer Service in the Firearm business.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,607 Posts
Simple,
Give Ruger a call. Detail what is wrong. They will have you send it back. If they can't fix the problem they will send you another one.
If you call with a attitude they may tell you to pound sand up your A.
I have three 10/22 & all fit tight. 1993 Green-orange, laminate. 2012 Pink laminated & a 2012 Take-Down.
They are fit tight & shoot as a 10/22 plinker.
If you need more accuracy, like the man said, free floating barrel, trigger etc. i myself have a Bolt Action Savage Tactical 22. Heavy fluted free floating target barrel, adjustable trigger, Boyd stock, all from the factory. Just add Scope & rings.
I'm a little off topic, sorry.
Ruger should take care of it. They have one of the best Customer Service in the Firearm business.

Thats good to hear. I was wondering when Ruger started getting sloppy.
My newest is 25 years old and its not loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
I should consider sending it back then?

The sad thing about all of this was that I was going to buy a Henry lever .22, but bought the 10/22 instead due to its 'versatility.'
I guess I have some buyer's remorse.
I have both. 10/22 and Henry H001. Comparing them is not apples to oranges (after all, both are .22 carbines), it's more like jonathans vs granny smiths, two different varieties of apples.

My Henry came from the factory with pretty much perfect build quality. It did also cost more than a 10/22.

I would not want to have to choose between the two. Don't know which I would keep if I could only keep one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,607 Posts
I purchased my first 10/22 in 1983 and my last one a couple of months ago. Starting with the 300 prefix serials I noticed the quality start to nose dive with the very issues you mention. I purchased my last Henry a H001L in 2006 and have about 35Ks round thru it without a single issue. I think the Henry quality is actually going up in the last few years as I look at Henry's and Ruger's out on display every chance I get. Henry's product support has the edge over Ruger in my experience. I think thats because the owner of Henry is a day to day guy and very proud of his rifles. All that being said they are two different rifles for different purposes. Kind of like a tiling spade vs a round point.
I agree Henry 22s quality is going up all the new ones I've looked at are better than my Henry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
You bought a rifle that is not high end but expect fit & finish like a thousand Dollar rifle. That's just not being realistic. I've owned a small mountain of 10-22's and absolutely love the little rifles.

Sell it to me.........I'll make a match rifle out of it but the tab will be about $800 before it's over.

Half the fun of owning a 10-22 is making it better. Run with that and have fun with it.

Flash
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,332 Posts
None of my Ruger products have this problem. If it is unsat, send it back to Ruger.....

Were these problems there when you bought the rifle?

If not, is it possible you didn't get it back together right? IDK-just saying.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Reading all this is very interesting! I pick up my new 10/22 from the gun store tomorrow.
It looks like the kids and I will have a lot of fun making a good rifle out of something that started off with a lot of loose gaps & sloppy pieces. From what I'm reading, the first major change looks like building a new stock for it.
Already starting to get excited!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,607 Posts
Reading all this is very interesting! I pick up my new 10/22 from the gun store tomorrow.
It looks like the kids and I will have a lot of fun making a good rifle out of something that started off with a lot of loose gaps & sloppy pieces. From what I'm reading, the first major change looks like building a new stock for it.
Already starting to get excited!
Reading this makes me want to go buy one so I can compare it to my old ones.
 

·
Former Hoadpiler
Joined
·
32,418 Posts
None of my Ruger products have this problem. If it is unsat, send it back to Ruger.....

Were these problems there when you bought the rifle?

If not, is it possible you didn't get it back together right? IDK-just saying.......
I have 10/22's/Charger dating from 1966 to 2012 and I love them all including the minor imperfections. But then I like old battle scared WWII rifles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
I have 10/22's/Charger dating from 1966 to 2012 and I love them all including the minor imperfections. But then I like old battle scared WWII rifles.
+1
At the risk of skewing the thread-- have history of 30-06 Enfield, 30-06 Spfld, Mosin, and Turk 8mm Mauser.
Fascinating weapons!

Now I'm back to building a 10/22.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top