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Took my 1022 to the range and the action will not cycle and eject after every shot (I can do it manually.. but.. ugh). Anyone have a clue whats going on? Is it service-able by itself or should I send the action in. I wanna give ruger a call but I don't want my whole rifle replaced again.

Feels like the action is rubbing against the hammer or something. Gently moving the bolt back and forward does not reset the trigger/hammer. Pulling back and letting go does. The action won't cycle on it's own though.

This 1022 is factory new from Ruger.
 

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take it appart, clean it good...oil it and try again. When you get it apart manually move the ejector and all parts to make sure nothing is getting hung up. Sometimes when they come straight out of the box they are not properly cleaned and lubed. Some have no break in, other have more. If that doesn't do the trick (in most cases it does) take it to someone or call ruger or ask again but now you will may have a better idea of what the problem might be. Good luck.
 

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take it appart, clean it good...oil it and try again. When you get it apart manually move the ejector and all parts to make sure nothing is getting hung up. Sometimes when they come straight out of the box they are not properly cleaned and lubed. Some have no break in, other have more. If that doesn't do the trick (in most cases it does) take it to someone or call ruger or ask again but now you will may have a better idea of what the problem might be. Good luck.
^^This

You can also find a lot of good You Tube videos to walk you through the disassemble of your rifle.

TK
 

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Most 10/22's are not picky about ammo, but once you get it back together, you may want to shoot CCI mini mags to rule out an ammo problem.

+1 though on cleaning and living it.
 

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How many rounds thru her...just wondering.
Sounds more dirty than anything.
The 10/22 is simple to take down, but if you
never have, watch some videos first.
While you have her down....you should replace the buffer,
very simple/easy...and will quiet her a lot too.
I suggest Tony Kidd buffers. [and other Kidd mods]
I will look for a vid or two, and edit this.
Kidd website may even have takedown videos...

Bolt Buffer info
http://www.coolguyguns.com/Bolt-Buffer_p_12.html

Receiver Pin info
http://www.coolguyguns.com/Receiver-Pins_p_54.html

Good start point for dis-assembly
http://guns.wonderhowto.com/how-to/disassemble-your-ruger-10-22-rimfire-rifle-258757/
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nah It's not dirty it's factory new. Something seems off with it, I'll have to call Ruger monday. I reassembled it several times and tried to rule some things out with no luck. When I fire, the action doesn't move one bit, doesn't eject, doesn't reset the trigger. Screws in the receiver aren't an issue either. The machining on the bolt looks kind of rough in some spots but I was thinking that's just cosmetic.
 

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Shouldn't do that, take it apart and clean it to see if that fixes it, otherwise send it back for a fix.
 

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Clean and reassemble like everyone says. I actually am a novice gun owner myself I owned a 10/22 for 3 months now. I have completely took apart the trigger group and reassembled it and I must say it is relatively easy to do. Take apart the trigger group clean it out and reassemble.
 

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Same cycling problem

I had (still have) the same cycling problem with my 10/22. Happened at my indoor range. Took to the gunsmith there. He dis/reassembled it. Problem persisted. Ultimately, after an hour of various attempts to fix it, he determined I should send it back to Ruger for a fix/replacement. Now in the waiting stage for the return.
 

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Take it apart...flip the receiver over and then take either a green scotch pad or 0000 steel wool and scrub all the over spray out of the receiver....clean it well and then put some dry lube in the inside of the receiver generously...may want to polish and radius your bolt as well....reassemble and got shoot it....I would think that might help your problem......Good luck....
 

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Took my 1022 to the range and the action will not cycle and eject after every shot (I can do it manually.. but.. ugh). Anyone have a clue whats going on? Is it service-able by itself or should I send the action in. I wanna give ruger a call but I don't want my whole rifle replaced again.

Feels like the action is rubbing against the hammer or something. Gently moving the bolt back and forward does not reset the trigger/hammer. Pulling back and letting go does. The action won't cycle on it's own though.

This 1022 is factory new from Ruger.
It would help if you could go into more detail with your description of the problem and what you are doing...

1. New gun is supposed to be taken down and cleaned prior to use...

2. Ammo...low velocity/quiet ammo will not cycle the gun reliably...in my gun if I use CCI Quiet ammo it becomes a "bolt-action" rifle...no malfunctions...but I have to manually cycle the rounds...however...pulling the bolt back extracts and ejects the empty shell casing and loads the next round...this is NOT a malfunction of the gun...

3. The trigger should only reset after the bolt has traveled to the rear fully and cocked the hammer first...if the recoil of the fired round did not send the bolt rearward enough or at all to begin with the trigger will not reset...nor should it...

4. If the bolt only travels far enough to the rear to partially extract the shell but not fully eject it then closes on a half cycled round the empty case and next round will both most likely be jammed in the receiver with bolt held partially open...

5. Is it a stove pipe malfunction...a stove pipe malfunction is when after you fire a round the bolt closes on a partially ejected empty case...the empty case sticks out of the ejection port open end out like an exhaust pipe or "stove pipe" if you will... If you have "stove pipe" malfunction it is most likely due to the extractor...the factory extractor on mine never worked well from day one...in fact mine sat in the locker for over 10 years because I didn't have the motivation to find the cause and fix it...that was regardless of ammo quality or velocity it would stove pipe sometimes every round but would never cycle more than 2 rounds properly w/o stove piping...after reading many reports of that I got a Sharp Claw extractor and have fired thousands of rounds of cheap ammo and it rarely stove pipes...and never stove pipes with mini mags...

6. The recoil spring is what returns the bolt closed after being sent to rear...it rides on the charging handle rod...make sure the charging handle is not binding on the rod...if it is not free to slide up/down it will prevent bolt from going to rear properly when fired even with high velocity ammo...not always consistently...

As stated above when you take the bolt out for maintenance clean the paint off the inside of the receiver with scotch brite...don't remove metal...just paint...

Dri-lube is a good product and I used it on a million things mechanical for over 20 years but not on guns anymore...

Dri lube goes away quickly...especially on the charging handle/rod...oil doesn't last either...and it's easy to use too much oil and that causes problems too...

I highly recommend using Frog Lube instead...it is many, many times better and many, many times more economical as well...

Frog Lube leaves the surfaces slicker than Dri lube or oil...last longer...makes clean up after use infinitely easier...will not gum up like oil...penetrates better than oil...

Frog Lube won't dissolve hardened residue as well has hoppes solvent or even dri lube solvent...however, once the gun is cleaned well and treated with frog lube the need for solvent to clean it next time is gone...

So...

1. Use CCI Mini-mags...they are high quality, high velocity, lubricated rounds that are well known to cycle better and fire more reliably than any other round you can get...the price is not bad...there has been a shortage of them at the stores lately...if you have a choice get the 40gr solid but the 36gr hollow points are fine too...

2. Prior to use...take it apart...clean according to Ruger instructional video on YouTube...

3. Instead of finishing it with a light coat of gun oil...Frog Lube it...

4. Make sure you Frog Lube the charging handle/recoil rod very well and it's free and slick...

5. While the trigger group is out...evaluate the function of the trigger/hammer/reset... there is a very good instructional video on YouTube for that too... triggershims.com

6. If it stove pipes on you after all that get a Sharp Claw extractor...the best $12 I ever spent on a gun with a 4oz jar of Frog Lube paste in very close second place...
 

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I just signed on to the forum for the first time. I am having the same problem. I have installed a new ejector and extractor cleaned and oiled but it still stove pipes. Where can a guy get the frog lube? Maybe this is my cure?
 

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Nah It's not dirty it's factory new. Something seems off with it, I'll have to call Ruger monday. I reassembled it several times and tried to rule some things out with no luck. When I fire, the action doesn't move one bit, doesn't eject, doesn't reset the trigger. Screws in the receiver aren't an issue either. The machining on the bolt looks kind of rough in some spots but I was thinking that's just cosmetic.
Just because it's new doesn't mean it doesn't need a lube and cleaning. I always strip and clean a new gun before it take it to the range. I rarely find a new gun that when you run a patch through it comes out totally clean. Also the inspection of some of my new guns showed them very dry with no lube at all.
 
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