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Discussion Starter #1
I have over 1100 rounds thru my Ruger SR9 & I've ran 5 or so brands from the cheapest to decent & not a single problem. Bought a 100 round box of Winchester white box ammo for the 1st time & were talking 2 dozen FTF with 9taking a 2nd strike, 4 taking 3 strikes, 3 taking 4 strikes, & the range master grabbed 4 of them, (not sure what he used), but all 4 went down range & rapidly!

First thought, light strike issue, but with a clean gun & over 1100 rounds thru it? Second thought, my SR9 doesn't like Winchester White box ammo, Period! I asked several people if this was myth or truth & everyone has had particular issues with specific brands & most explaining that its probably the type of primers used. The weirdest part, a quick field strip & its the cleanest I've ever seen after 100 rounds down range. Hell, even most the grease was still red in color!!

So is this myth, is it truth, or should I go grab ammo that I've used before without flaw & run em thru her as a deciding factor? (I'm just so disappointed right now)... :confused:
 

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I have over 1100 rounds thru my Ruger SR9 & I've ran 5 or so brands from the cheapest to decent & not a single problem. Bought a 100 round box of Winchester white box ammo for the 1st time & were talking 2 dozen FTF with 9taking a 2nd strike, 4 taking 3 strikes, 3 taking 4 strikes, & the range master grabbed 4 of them, (not sure what he used), but all 4 went down range & rapidly!

First thought, light strike issue, but with a clean gun & over 1100 rounds thru it? Second thought, my SR9 doesn't like Winchester White box ammo, Period! I asked several people if this was myth or truth & everyone has had particular issues with specific brands & most explaining that its probably the type of primers used. The weirdest part, a quick field strip & its the cleanest I've ever seen after 100 rounds down range. Hell, even most the grease was still red in color!!
So is this myth, is it truth, or should I go grab ammo that I've used before without flaw & run em thru her as a deciding factor? (I'm just so disappointed right now)... :confused:
Where in the firearm are you finding/using red grease?
 

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You can over lubricate the firing pin. I would clean the firing pin channel. You can use brake cleaner or CLP powder Blast to clean the firing pin channel if you do not want to remove the firing pin. Once the solvent is dry just give the firing pin a few drops of oil.
 

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I've fired WWB, both FMJ and JHP, through my SR9c and LC9s and had no issues. Could it be a bad lot?
 

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WWB ammo caused my SR9C's one and only FTF.
 

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I would suggest after that many rounds to really strip the pistol down including pulling the firing pin... and clean the pin and the chanel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It will be hard to remember everyone's questions & reply to all so I'm gonna give you guys as much as I remember you asking for...
I can do a full detailed strip & have only brung it to a gunsmith twice. Once for the TRX sights & another for the Precision Galloway Tactical reset bar with the TcT & that's cause I was lazy & didn't wanna pull it apart 3 or 4 times till the TrT is perfect. Everything that can be upgraded has been from Galloway precision & everything that can or should be polished has been. The quickest way to tell you guys what's been done is to take a quick look at these 2 threads:

RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9 How-To (Multiple Inside) - Video Links Removed
RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9/SR9c/SR40 Modifications and Accessories

Of course not every little detail in those threads is the way it went, but all of the polishing including the stainless striker & striker body was done by me & everything was documented. This means I have pics of when I did the work & can compare them to the striker now & there's no damage & its as shinny & clean as it was when I first did it! For lubrication, I mostly use Slide Glide that's red in color & Hoppes oils & cleaners. I have it down to a science on exactly what gets greased, what gets oiled, & how much to apply due to all the cleanups & re-lubes i've done, especially if i'm about to run ammo that i've never shot before.

I will go buy another 100 rounds of a different brand & I'm gonna put em all down range as fast as the range will allow. I have 6 mags that hold 17 rounds a pop which is 102 rounds & ive done this torture test before. I might take a pause mid way after 3 mags but am not sure. Either way, i'll find out if its my gun or the ammo!!
 

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I have over 1100 rounds thru my Ruger SR9 & I've ran 5 or so brands from the cheapest to decent & not a single problem. Bought a 100 round box of Winchester white box ammo for the 1st time.....
There lies your problem, IMO.
 

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I don't grease my firearms, ever. Grease is too thick and will catch and keep debris like unburnt powder and other stuff. Turns it into an abrasive paste and will actually facilitate wear.
Grease is also very sticky, and unless it's something that is constantly moving or exposed to elements that can wash it away it's not usually a good idea to use it.
It's also hard as hell to clean.

It sounds odd but I use synthetic motor oil. It is designed to do all the things your firearm needs. It's resistant to high temperatures, sheds grit, and is very resilient to breaking down.

I don't use much, either. I don't put any on the frame, just in the slide. I put a few drops on the slide rails (front, middle, rear), a drop on the barrel lugs, and I put a drop on my fingers and I coat the firing pin and recoil spring with that.
That's it. Reassemble.

It'll be smooth, stay cleaner for longer, and be easier to clean at the end of the day.
I oil my .22s even less. I just do the drop on the fingers trick and make the slide rails just a little shiney, don't bother oiling the firing pin, just blast the crap out of the frame and firing pin channel with an air-gun and call it a day. My Buckmark has over 10,000 rounds through it on all original parts and still going strong. Not a single hiccup, either. It runs and runs and runs. Even junk ammo that won't cycle my friend's 10/22 will run in my Buckmark. I wish I was joking, that gun is literally 100% reliable, I've never had a jam, or a short stroke. It won't cycle CBs, but those are CBs. One time at the range it was clicking on a particular ammo, but that ammo was tested in SEVERAL other 22s (a 10/22, a Marlin 39A, a Savage XT-22, and an SP101 .22) and had the same symptoms so it wasn't the gun's fault...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't want my thread used for a debate over the whole grease & oil subject. I've read more threads (more like wars) over this & this isnt my threads subject or purpose.

Thanks
 

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I don't want my thread used for a debate over the whole grease & oil subject. I've read more threads (more like wars) over this & this isnt my threads subject or purpose.

Thanks
But if you put grease in the wrong place, you can get the exact issue that you are having. (I also use slide guide...but never on firing pins or striker channels.) I would tend to believe that the issue is WWB, they seem to have harder primers.

Since you have read a lot of threads here (and others wouldn't know that from your first post), you well know that, at least early on, many SR series pistols had issues with light strikes. They were because Ruger production employees put too much grease in the striker channel and the firearms had immediate issues. Even when they cut back on the grease, the dirt gets in there and needs to be removed on a regular basis.

In none of your posts, have you said how often you have cleaned your striker channel and exactly how you lube it. I clean the striker channel on my SR9c (5000 rounds) about every 1000 rounds. I clean it, wipe it dry and then put a small drop of Remm Oil on a Q-tip and lightly wipe the striker before reinstalling. The striker moves very little and although there is metal on metal contact, there is very little side pressure to cause wear.

You've mentioned other modifications to your SR9. Did you change the striker spring?

And I'm sure that you are aware, that if you dry or had dry fired the pistol with out a mag installed, peening can occur which will cause light strikes.
 

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Outside the discussion on maintenance items, I think you approach to try different ammo that you know has run well works, especially if its from stock you had on hand so you know its the same lots.

My personally approach when trying new ammo, is to bring known quantity ammo with me just in case (I tend to buy in bulk when I like something so always have good to go on hand). Only those back to back runs rule out ammo vs gun issues.

While ammo can vary, most try to stick to SAAMI spec, leaving primer hardness one of the biggest variables. Unless you have done things to lighten triggers that would make that variance an issue, my take a gun should be able to shoot any commercial standard primer if @ service grade spring spec. Meaning if you cant pop any primer, you need to examine the mechanical works as something needs to be improved. You never know what primers someone may someday switch to.

Case in point, my Springfield EMP could not consistently light Fiocchi 9mm primers, but shot anything else. My Beretta fired the same rounds that the EMP could not, and it had a lighter competition main spring it in. During that same session, it ran thru a full box of WWB. Leaving the impression the Fiocchi had hard primers.

The gun had the chamber reamed (spec 9mm) and the titanium firing pin swapped for a steel one. Now it shoots any and everything. Non issue if Fiocchi primers are harder than Winchester's.
 

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I really doubt it is the Winchester white box ammo. WWB gets blamed for more problems because it is the most popular pistol ammo in the USA. Guns are mechanical devices. Parts break if you use any mechanical device. Firing pins are especially hard ro trouble shoot. Usually just a tiny piece breaks off the tip of a firing pin. Unless you are a gunsmith who sees broken firing pins all the time it can be difficult to tell if your firing pin is broken. The first firing pin I broke the gunsmith had to use a magnifying glass to see the break. With the naked eye that firing pin looked great. Under a magnifying glass the tip of the firing pin looked like it had been struck with a chisel.
 

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Hell, even most the grease was still red in color!!

The word GREASE throws out the red flag.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The jury is out. Picked up 2 boxes of Perfecta ammo from Walmart which I've use before. I sent 100 rounds down range as fast as the indoor range will allow. Not a single ftf, or the slightest hiccup!!
 

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The jury is out. Picked up 2 boxes of Perfecta ammo from Walmart which I've use before. I sent 100 rounds down range as fast as the indoor range will allow. Not a single ftf, or the slightest hiccup!!

No, the jury has been telling you that WWB is crap.

You have yet another data point that shows that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No, the jury has been telling you that WWB is crap.

You have yet another data point that shows that.
Lmao! Well maybe I got a bad batch, or maybe they suck. Either way, I didn't want to take a dump on Winchester, I just wanted to know if it was my gun or the ammo. However I do thank you for your feedback!
 

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Lmao! Well maybe I got a bad batch, or maybe they suck. Either way, I didn't want to take a dump on Winchester, I just wanted to know if it was my gun or the ammo. However I do thank you for your feedback!
My 9E HATED PEREFECTA ammo 2 box's sucked lol :eek: shot WWB well. I picked out 500 rounds of Freedom Munition 115 gr FMJ and have had several FTF but I have NO issues with it in my S&W Shield. So far no fail to fire. From all I read here ammo can be a issue,Glad you have yours zeroed in
 
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