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Hello everybody, 2nd post. I received my parts order from Tandemkross today. It consisted of their SS hammer bushing, 2 extended magazine bumpers, top picatinny rail, LCI filler insert and McFadden clip loader. I also performed the magazine tune up per their video. While I had the pistol apart I noticed the sear appeared unfinished and rough. So I removed it, stoned and polished it until is was mirror finished. The photo of it is about half way through the process. Notice the rough factory brush strokes. I stoned these till completely gone, then polished to mirror finish. Well worth the effort!! I also addressed the hammer as well. I installed the new hammer bushing as well as the other parts and buttoned her up. Excited to try my new mods, I loaded up the magazines with some bulk Rem golden hollow point and proceeded to rapidly manually cycle them through. Disappointment quickly set in as it would cycle the first and sometimes second then a FTF, where the nose of the round became stuck on the bottom of the chamber feed ramp. Notice the photo of the bullet and the deformation caused. So I tried some Browning bulk round nose and it performed flawlessly. Not satisfied with this result I took the pistol back apart and upon inspection found the factory left a lip at the bottom of the feed ramp, see photo. Which is where the hollow points where jamming. I took my Dremel tool and removed the lip. I then took a small round file with some 400 grit and polished the modified area, see photo. I cleaned and reassembled the pistol and loaded of the magazines with the initial hollow points and made sure to include some of the damaged rounds. What a REMARKABLE difference. It fed everything, including the damaged rounds as fast as I could cycle the bolt. So there you go, if your having FTF where it's not loading or jamming on the feed ramp you may want to check the feed ramp for a lip and remove it. Also trigger feel and function was very much improved. Final shot of completed pistol. Hope this is able to help someone.
 

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Hello everybody, 2nd post. I received my parts order from Tandemkross today. It consisted of their SS hammer bushing, 2 extended magazine bumpers, top picatinny rail, LCI filler insert and McFadden clip loader. I also performed the magazine tune up per their video. While I had the pistol apart I noticed the sear appeared unfinished and rough. So I removed it, stoned and polished it until is was mirror finished. The photo of it is about half way through the process. Notice the rough factory brush strokes. I stoned these till completely gone, then polished to mirror finish. Well worth the effort!! I also addressed the hammer as well. I installed the new hammer bushing as well as the other parts and buttoned her up. Excited to try my new mods, I loaded up the magazines with some bulk Rem golden hollow point and proceeded to rapidly manually cycle them through. Disappointment quickly set in as it would cycle the first and sometimes second then a FTF, where the nose of the round became stuck on the bottom of the chamber feed ramp. Notice the photo of the bullet and the deformation caused. So I tried some Browning bulk round nose and it performed flawlessly. Not satisfied with this result I took the pistol back apart and upon inspection found the factory left a lip at the bottom of the feed ramp, see photo. Which is where the hollow points where jamming. I took my Dremel tool and removed the lip. I then took a small round file with some 400 grit and polished the modified area, see photo. I cleaned and reassembled the pistol and loaded of the magazines with the initial hollow points and made sure to include some of the damaged rounds. What a REMARKABLE difference. It fed everything, including the damaged rounds as fast as I could cycle the bolt. So there you go, if your having FTF where it's not loading or jamming on the feed ramp you may want to check the feed ramp for a lip and remove it. Also trigger feel and function was very much improved. Final shot of completed pistol. Hope this is able to help someone.
Good job, only other thing I could add is to polish the transfer bar to remove any additional creep from the sharp edges rubbing on the side wall.
 

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I will have to try this on mine, kind of figured as much as I paid for this little gun there would be better quality control. After working 30+ years in a GM plant [2 years in air craft and 10 years in X-1100 transmission plant] attention to detail kind of sticks with me. Mine has failing to feed and actually pinches the bullet, have been thinking about taking a Dremal tool with just the polishing head and cleaning up the ramp a little bit. Thanks for the info and the pictures, love this little gun and would actually carry this if I could depend on it firing. I figure 5-6 well placed 22lr is better than 3-4 scattered 9mm.
 

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Great info, thanks!

I just ordered a 22/45 lite today for my wife. I've been reading about a few simple mods, so I purchased some Tandemkross upgrades. I got the hammer bushing, firing pin and extractor. Ruger makes great products, but they do require a bit of fine tuning to make them perfect.

With the new parts and info listed here, I should be able to minimize the break-in period for the 22/45. My wife is new to target shooting, so I want her first pistol to work flawlessly.
 

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Hello everybody, 2nd post. I received my parts order from Tandemkross today. It consisted of their SS hammer bushing, 2 extended magazine bumpers, top picatinny rail, LCI filler insert and McFadden clip loader. I also performed the magazine tune up per their video. While I had the pistol apart I noticed the sear appeared unfinished and rough. So I removed it, stoned and polished it until is was mirror finished. The photo of it is about half way through the process. Notice the rough factory brush strokes. I stoned these till completely gone, then polished to mirror finish. Well worth the effort!! I also addressed the hammer as well. I installed the new hammer bushing as well as the other parts and buttoned her up. Excited to try my new mods, I loaded up the magazines with some bulk Rem golden hollow point and proceeded to rapidly manually cycle them through. Disappointment quickly set in as it would cycle the first and sometimes second then a FTF, where the nose of the round became stuck on the bottom of the chamber feed ramp. Notice the photo of the bullet and the deformation caused. So I tried some Browning bulk round nose and it performed flawlessly. Not satisfied with this result I took the pistol back apart and upon inspection found the factory left a lip at the bottom of the feed ramp, see photo. Which is where the hollow points where jamming. I took my Dremel tool and removed the lip. I then took a small round file with some 400 grit and polished the modified area, see photo. I cleaned and reassembled the pistol and loaded of the magazines with the initial hollow points and made sure to include some of the damaged rounds. What a REMARKABLE difference. It fed everything, including the damaged rounds as fast as I could cycle the bolt. So there you go, if your having FTF where it's not loading or jamming on the feed ramp you may want to check the feed ramp for a lip and remove it. Also trigger feel and function was very much improved. Final shot of completed pistol. Hope this is able to help someone.
Great post! Great tips! Since my 22/45 continues to suffer from FTF/FTE issues despite a few parts upgrades and limited dremel work, I will keep at it, thanks to your experience and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks
 

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I suggest polishing ALL surfaces of all trigger components including safety and mag release.

I take my dremel with polish/fiber wheels and use Mothers Aluminum polish from the auto parts store. I rub the polish onto the wheel with my fingers so it doesn't spray everywhere when I start the dremel up - then polish polish polish.

I've done 3 pistols now this way and it does make a huge difference. Don't forget to polish the plunger on the sides as well as the top. Polish all sides of the hammer also. For the sear and hammer engaging surfaces, I use a very very hard arkansas stone with a drop of oil and making sure I don't round any edges, I stroke back and forth to get rid of any lips/edges/burs. You can feel them with your fingernail if you drag it across with a bit of pressure. Polish with the arkansas stone until it's as smooth as can be. You can see the high areas as you start to polish and keep at it until it's all one bearing surface. Usually takes 2 - 3 minutes per item (hammer and sear) - then polish with the Mother's polish/dremel tool. If it's metal - polish it on all sides. THEN - I put everything together with a small amount of Lucas Extreme Gun Oil - and it make for one very smooth trigger job on a Ruger. YMMV.
 

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Very interesting. I looked at my 10150 and it has a barely perceptible 'lip' from the ramp to the chamber. I would guess that with this very small lip, combined with the ammo I've been using I haven't experienced this problem yet. One more thing to keep in the back of our minds....
 
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