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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a minty 6 1/2 .357 Blackhawk. The barrel is clocked to the right. The base and sight post are square so I believe the whole barrel is clocked vs a bent sight. Long story short: who is a good gunsmith with reasonable rates and turn around time that I could send it to for a good trigger job and barrel turn? Or should I man up and buy the tools from Brownells and try it myself? Has anyone here turned a barrel? Obviously sending it back to Ruger and getting a transfer bar installed is out of the question. What say ye?
 

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If the sight is leaning to the right it is under clocked and I would imagine could be tightened up to straighten it.
Some one with more knowledge than me will be along soon.
 

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Shoot the gun first to see if the sights are on for windage. A previous owner may have turned the barrel to adjust the front sight if it was shooting off to one side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I shot it. I had to move the rear sight almost all the way right to get POI=POA. It grouped nicely so it's definitely a shooter.
 

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Bob, did the wood hurt the bluing at all? What tool did you use on the frame?
No, the wood was padded with leather. Hamilton Bowen has since published a tip: Take duct tape and fold a strip lengthwise, sticky side out, so you have sort of a double sided tape. Wrap the barrel with this equal to the width of the clamp.

I used a piece of 2x2 oak about three feet long. Place this up against the front of the frame. I cut a shallow notch to fit the topstrap. To break the joint I tapped the end of my "wrench" with a hammer, once the joint was "broken" tuning was easier with that leverage.

Some folks will tell you that you are in danger of springing the frame without an action wrench, but this way was suggested to me by Hamilton Bowen, and I've done it several times with no ill effect. With either method, you are putting force in the same place.

Watch this video (from Uberti) about installing the barrel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYOJa8ZNxmE

Bob Wright
 

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Won't there need to be some work done at the area where the barrel screws into the frame? I admit never having removed a barrel but if the threads are bottomed out and there are no more trying to force the barrel farther into the frame seems like the possibility of opening up another set of problems. Would you not first have to remove the barrel to see if there are threads enough to turn it in?

Back before I learned better I got myself into a lot of extra problems by trying to over tighten bolts and nuts. The same sort of thing could happen here if one is not careful. I am not suggesting not to do this just to look at the problem from all sides before action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Max, that is a good question. I definitely want as much info as possible before damaging (possibly) a sweet wheel gun.

Bob, thank you for the tips. I am not able to watch the video and cannot find it on YouTube??
 

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Send it to Ruger with a note specifically saying you want your original parts back, in addition to fixing the clocked barrel. Also tell them the action isn't what it should be, they may do something for that. When you get it back, put the original pre-conversion parts in, or have it done by a gunsmith. Telling them it needs the transfer bar conversion will get you free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Doc, that sounds reasonable but it makes me worry that I won't get the original parts back. Has anyone else sent a 3 screw in, got work done, and then received 100% of the original parts back? Doc, if you have done this yourself what was the turnaround time?
 

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You'll need to wait for others to speak of their experiences. I have not done it myself, just seen others talk of getting their original parts back.
 

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Doc, that sounds reasonable but it makes me worry that I won't get the original parts back. Has anyone else sent a 3 screw in, got work done, and then received 100% of the original parts back? Doc, if you have done this yourself what was the turnaround time?

I had a Super Blackhawk retrofitted and did get my parts back. But I bought two .357 Blackhawks and the owner told me Ruger had "lost" the original parts. So to be safe, keep your parts at home.

I got my gun back in about four weeks or so.

Bob Wright
 

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You'll need to wait for others to speak of their experiences. I have not done it myself, just seen others talk of getting their original parts back.
I just bought a 1961 flattop at a LGS, in 1988 it was sent to Ruger for a refinish and transfer bar and they returned the original parts (I'll be converting it back soon).

I was told that Ruger normally shipped the original parts back until the mid-nineties, after which they were kept. So I'm curious if they'll send the parts back if requested now.
 
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