[TommyBolle]

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a brand new rifle chambered in 375 ruger. And i'm having trouble finding any brass for it. I thought i had lucked out when i found some 375 ruger BASIC. I didn't realize what i was getting myself into. Bc the basic round is a blank piece of brass that i have have to form. Since i've never done anything like this before. I was wondering if anyone here had. Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mark204]

Here’s my method for fire forming::

1) Use a pistol powder, (Unique or Bullseye).

2) Prime and charge the case, fill to the top, dump and weigh the powder.

3) Reduce that weight to 10%, (50gr reduce it to 5gr, 40gr reduce it to 4gr).

4) Charge the case with the reduced load.

5) Stuff some TP on top of the charge.

6) Fill the case with DRY cream of wheat or oatmeal, (this is your filler)

7) Top it off with some more TP to keep the “filler” in place.

8) Chut it.

9) Run a patch down the the barrel every 3rd shot or so.


One firing should do the trick if not repeat.

 

[TommyBolle]

Would (power pistol or universal) work? Or is there a specific reason you said (unique and bullseye)?

 

[Mark204]

They’ll both work. Ideally the faster the burn on the powder the better.

 

[TommyBolle]

Are you saying that my 2 powders burn slower? Should i increase the charge if they are?

 

[Mark204]

Are you saying that my 2 powders burn slower? Should i increase the charge if they are?

They do burn a little slower......my source has Universal at #25 and PP at #32......Bullseye at #4 and Unique at #24. You’re still good, keep it at the 10% reduction though.

 

[TommyBolle]

Ok, thankyou. Just one last question. I read somewhere that doing this fire forming technique is hard on the barrel life of the rifle being used. Is that true? Bc i do have 300 pieces of brass im going to have to form.

 

[NVcaster]

Tommy,
I have done this with the 375 Ruger for the same reason, it is kind of a pain. Its been awhile but I think I also had trim the brass quite a bit if I remember correctly. I adjusted the size die so that I could just close the bolt with a little friction. Then I loaded a mid range standard load with IMR 4350 I had on hand and some old hornaday 270 grain bullets. It worked well but I think I ruined two or three pieces of brass trying to figure it out. Liberally apply case lube, Redding Imperial sizing wax is the preferred. I read up on how to do it before I started but can't remember the source. I did 50 basic to get started and bought some regular 375 Ruger brass as soon as I could find it. I still have 50 basic left!! I don't envy you doing 300!!!!

 

[Mark204]

Ok, thankyou. Just one last question. I read somewhere that doing this fire forming technique is hard on the barrel life of the rifle being used. Is that true? Bc i do have 300 pieces of brass im going to have to form.

Sorry, I just saw this. No it’s not hard on the barrel.

 

[TommyBolle]

Thankyou both for your responses. I have bought some once fired 375 ruger brass. I just got the first 50 in the mail yesterday. So i have a reference to go by when forming the basic brass. I'm going to try the cream of wheat method. Starting with 10 at a time. Then i will work up to 50 if all goes well. I'm in no rush, got nothing but time on my hands.

 

[Mark204]

Liberally apply case lube, Redding Imperial sizing wax is the preferred. I read up on how to do it before I started but can't remember the source.

I would advise against this........Lube left on the case will not allow the cartridge to momentarily “stick” to the chamber walls when fired. This will increase breachface thrust pressure above a safe limit. It may not do damage to firearm initially but in the long run you’ve asking for problems.

 

[Bob Lewis]

I used essentially the same method as Mark to fire form some .270 cases to 6.5 - .270 AI, the difference is I use bar soap to "seal" the neck and a different powder.