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Discussion Starter #121
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Might as well put an update here while I'm at it. I did not rush the reloads and did not go shoot this weekend. Here is a sample of the brass I did some work on. Those are shoulder bumped back to within half a thousand of the length after the first firing, on factory ammo. I deprimes, then cleaned the pockets with a pocket cleaner bit that threads into a longer hexa rod that is meant to fit into a drill. I might have overdone the pockets and reamed them instead of only cleaned. I will see where the primers end, hopefully not too deep. In the picture I show 5 cases that I chamfered. The ones in the back, only the inside, the ones in the front, inside and outside. Again I might have overdone that too and only this picture made me realize it.
I dumped the 50 cases in the tumbler to get rid of the dry lube and brass shavings and now they are ready for primers, powder charge and bullet seating. I put the minimum charge of trailboss for 308(10gr) and made a mark right above the powder on the inside of a spent and non-deprimed case. I cut the case with a hacksaw above it, about a quarter inch. I filled the case to that new top(case neck is now gone) and dumped the powder on the scale, which gave me a reading of 12.4gr. now I have a quick way to charge my rounds at either 10 or 12.4 gr using that cut case as a dipper. I'll do more reasonable charges once I feel like it. Currently all I want is to feel the difference between low pressure and factory rounds, which I still have some of. I have something like 5 different bullet weights and lead and jacketed so in these first 50 rounds I will kind of ladder test but with bullet types instead of charges. I do will have 25 loaded at 10 and the other 25 loaded at 12.4, and I'll be able to measure the difference in kick between 135gr and I believe 180 gr is my largest, also lead vs jacketed. Another week of work starts so I'll be taking my time and next weekend should be testing time.
 

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American, hopefully your orders will ship in the near future. I've been enjoying the 230 gr. Montana FMJ bullets for 45ACP. Not sure what my cost was.
This post seemed a bit ominous when I first read it, but I didn't think too much of it... or at least I didn't want to. But after a while now, I have seen zero movement on my orders from the two companies I bought powders from. I was hoping they would ship in the near future too. lol But apparently there might be more to this than I know. Is there usually a longer wait for powders?... they were in stock and are still showing today they are in stock.

I ordered a couple thousand primers from powder valley at the beginning of the week and I got them today. So I just ordered 8lbs of Blue Dot from powder valley thinking I might get it sooner than the other places that seem to be just stopped in time. lol Is it normal for there to be a delay? One place hasn't even charged my card yet. Maybe Amazon Prime has spoiled me. lol

I did get the Montana bullets in a few days... even ordered another thousand and got those. They put a hurting on my mailbox. lol
 

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Yes American it's tough to get powder and primers right now. My stuff took two weeks to ship in May.
So after a few hours in the car waiting for a spot at the range, yes, it's that busy out here, here we go, first 50 rounds:
IMG_20200607_104554.jpg
IMG_20200607_122153.jpg
 

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Out of the 50 cases of 5.56 I primed, I have 5 that have bases that are too big to fit in the guage. I added another 1/4 turn down on the die and then put in the SB sizer die and ran them through and nothing. I'm assuming these are trash at this point. These casings were all once fired. I just want to check in with the experts before I chuck them. I guess I should run them through the guage before I prime them next time. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I added another 1/4 turn down on the die and then put in the SB sizer die and ran them through and nothing. I'm assuming these are trash at this point. These casings were all once fired.
American, if you haven’t already, run that die down till it touches the shell holder. If they won’t chamber after that write it off as one of life’s mysteries. I have two pieces of 7mm brass that are dimensionally correct after sizing but still won’t chamber. It’s a real head-scratcher but I haven’t given up on them yet, not because I need them, (cuz I don’t) it’s more a about not letting a piece of brass win. 😬
 
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I knew things were going too easy. I loaded 100 10mm and all were great except for the first couple where I had to do some adjusting to get the right bullet seating/crimp size. Then I did 100 5.56 and it was too easy, except for the first couple where I shrunk the bullet far down into the casing... same thing though... trying to get the right seating/slight crimp. I kept trying to get the bullet to seat further not realizing that I'm destroying the case. I did 20 rounds of 44... which turned out to be 18 rounds cause I forgot to put the powder in two casings before seating... I did all the crimping after I took the seater out. I got off easy with the 44s... seemed much easier than the others.

So today I got cocky and decided to do 50 rounds of 9mm before I tested out the 44 mags. 50 rounds turned into 40 rounds cause every now and then I would have a rough seating that bulged the bottom of the case. I started to put them all back in the case guage before the seating/crimping just to make sure they were properly sized. But too many were way too hard on the press and failed to pass when I would check them with the guage. I had all kinds brass, some dirtier than others, but even some of the dirtier ones would do just fine. When I say dirty, I mean stained or tarnished but actually as clean as they can get.... they were in the tumbler the same amount of time as the others. Is some brass thicker than others? I don't know how it could check out fine in the guage and then fail miserably after I do the final step. I guess I need to invest in a bullet puller... I am not willing to chuck any of these in the garbage... plus I can reuse the powder. Does anyone pop out good primers and resuse them or should I just count them as a loss? And does anyone separate their brass by each brand of brass? I was going back and forth for a few times resetting the crimp/seater... I was getting pissed. But for the most part I could tell which ones were going to be good and which were going to be bad at the end.
 

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Okay. I feel a bit of an update is in order before I ride along and steer towards the meanders of the reloading forum. It will be short though. In my last post you saw a picture of my first rifle reloads. It went well. It grouped horrible but it was fun. Almost no recoil. The rifle sounded like a 22..
I am now playing with load development with Benchmark powder and 150gr Gameking bullets. I would like to bring the bullet closer to the lands but I have no means of checking for that yet. I now have a scope, a scout scope with x7. Hopefully that will be enough to try grouping at the range. Trying to gather the cash to get a chronograph. For bow I will just go with groups. I might see some trends, hopefully.
 

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After reading frenchy's post I thought I'd throw an alternative to Hornady's Overall Length Gauge. If you can't afford one or can't find one this will work with zero out of pocket expense. This is what I did years ago......You'll need a fire formed case and a Dremel.

Take your fire formed case and resize it.........Only to the extent that you knock the primer out and work the neck. If you have a neck sizing die it's simple, if you're operating with a F/L die just back it out and screw your stem in deeper. You don't want to bump the shoulder or work the body.

Next take your Dremel and put four cuts in the case opening at 12, 3, 6 and 9. The depth of the cuts determines the amount of tension on the bullet........shorter cut = more tension, longer cuts = less tension. If you can't get enough tension out of the gate repeat the process and go with three cuts.

Now it's just a matter of placing the bullet in the case and cambering the round. It important that you work the bolt slowly as you chamber the round, (you don't want jamb the bullet in the lands) and extract it. When you extract the case use a finger or two guide the case out straight, (the ejector will want to push it out sideways. One last thing....a little lube in the barrel will help the bullet from getting stuck.
 

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Sounds like something I could do. I have a question about this. What does neck tension have to do with seating depth? I am thinking that to be able to seat the projectile correctly the tension must be loose enough so the bullet can be pushed into the case without issues while finding the lands. Is this true? I have heard lately about the relationship between tension and seating depth but I don't get why they are related.
The only thing I know about neck tension is my own experience: I don't pay attention to it because I do not crimp after/while seating.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
frenchy, neck tension has nothing to do with the seating depth. After you resize your fire formed case it would be difficult, maybe impossible to push a bullet into the case neck with just your bolt, you would more than likely stick the bullet in the lands. The relief cuts at 12, 3, 6 and 9 are to allow the bullet to move as you’re cycling the bolt. The depth of the cuts will determine the amount of “grip” the case has on the bullet, (start with a shallow cut) you want the bullet to move fairly easily, but you don’t want it to lose its position during the extraction of the case or possibly get stuck in the lands. Plus if there’s not enough tension you’ll never arrive at at consistent number.

If and when you do try this take three random bullets from the same lot and run the test three times for each bullet, then average the nine numbers. When you pick up a new box of bullets it would be in your interest to conduct another test because there always seems to be slight differences from lot to lot. Granted you won’t be getting a CBTO number but a COAL number, which may not be perfect but it’s still a “hard number “ to work off of.

As far as neck tension for a loaded round there are two ways to check. First you can mic the expander on you die, it should come in right a .003 under, an example is my 22-250 dies. The bullet is 224, my expander measures .221, (.001 for spring back = .002 neck tension). Second, you can a sized case and measure the neck, seat a your bullet and measures it again......subtract the difference and that’s your neck tension.

If there’s something I wasn’t clear enough on let me know.
 

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This post seemed a bit ominous when I first read it, but I didn't think too much of it... or at least I didn't want to. But after a while now, I have seen zero movement on my orders from the two companies I bought powders from. I was hoping they would ship in the near future too. lol But apparently there might be more to this than I know. Is there usually a longer wait for powders?... they were in stock and are still showing today they are in stock.

I ordered a couple thousand primers from powder valley at the beginning of the week and I got them today. So I just ordered 8lbs of Blue Dot from powder valley thinking I might get it sooner than the other places that seem to be just stopped in time. lol Is it normal for there to be a delay? One place hasn't even charged my card yet. Maybe Amazon Prime has spoiled me. lol

I did get the Montana bullets in a few days... even ordered another thousand and got those. They put a hurting on my mailbox. lol
Probably the mail man too.
 

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I don't have the problem of waiting for Primers anymore. lol

Maybe next year or the year after. Luckily I did get a lot more after I made that post... just in the nick of time too.
Ill bet. i have plenty of rifle priners, running low on pistol, but you have to remember i process my brass, size it, trim it, seat the primers so they are ready to be loaded when i feel like it. Have 500 9mm's primed, and several other calibers, that includes rifle so just because i dont have loose primers doesnt mean i cannot reload several hundred or several thousand rounds.
 

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Ill bet. i have plenty of rifle priners, running low on pistol, but you have to remember i process my brass, size it, trim it, seat the primers so they are ready to be loaded when i feel like it. Have 500 9mm's primed, and several other calibers, that includes rifle so just because i dont have loose primers doesnt mean i cannot reload several hundred rounds.
I am starting to do the same thing with my rifle casings. At least with a couple hundred of each. This way all I have to do is charge, seat and crimp and not have a whole bunch of tasks that I have to run every casing though. Like when I trim, that is all I want to do, I'll do all the rest of the case prep the next day, then prime them day after. I don't like having a whole lot to do at one sitting.
 

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I am starting to do the same thing with my rifle casings. At least with a couple hundred of each. This way all I have to do is charge, seat and crimp and not have a whole bunch of tasks that I have to run every casing though. Like when I trim, that is all I want to do, I'll do all the rest of the case prep the next day, then prime them day after. I don't like having a whole lot to do at one sitting.
I do the same, in stages. Deprime then size. Back into the tumbler. Then next is clean the primer pocket, and trim, debur. chamfer etc. Then next time seat primers and into storage they go until needed. I thoroughly docunent on the ziploc bag every detail.
 
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