Ruger Forum banner

A dedicated "Help new reloaders" thread

38K views 305 replies 92 participants last post by  Robert70 
#1 · (Edited)
I recently asked Terry_P if it was possible to have a dedicated "help new reloaders" thread, he said he would run it by the other mods and discuss what the risk vs. reward would be. Terry PM'd me back and gave me the green light.

Basically this it what I proposed so in order to keep it up and running we need to stick to it. If it goes side ways I'm sure the Mods will not hesitate to shut it down........

......"A thread where seasoned reloaders or any reloader for that matter could share any tips that help promote safe reloading practices. a thread were any member can ask questions in search of answers".

....."What the thread WOULD NOT BE is a place to solicit or share load data, PERIOD".

I'm sure with the amount of members we have on the forum there are 100's if not 1000's of years of experience here. Everyone is encouraged and welcome to participate, if your input helps one person be a safer reloader it was time well spent.

P.S. I believe this is going to be added as a sticky.

Let the games begin,

Mark
 
See less See more
#31 ·
Good comment on loading blocks. You will accumulate a few. I currently have enough for 1.000+ cases. If you have basic woodworking tools they are very easy to make as well. In the blocks I flip up and down depending on what I am doing. So for instance when I size and deprime, I put them back in the block base up so that I can visually see that they have been deprimed and sized. Then when I prep the case (primer pocket, trim, chamfer, etc.) they go back into the block base down so I can see the prep work on the neck, then when I prime, again base up so that I can visually see that all cases got primed and that the primer did not feed and get seated backward (yes that can happen). I then charge the case and obviously set it in the block base down so that I can take a flashlight and verify the powder level is even. Then when I seat and crimp (pistol and straight wall rifle) base down so I can see the bullet and if it’s been crimped. You will get in a rhythm, go slow and don’t get distracted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
Iowegan : Thanks for your time and knowledge . I to use the ram on my lyman turret press that I inherited from my father I do have a hand held primer but like you said in another thread some people look for that magical item to give them that spark . Also do you use a scale and weigh all your powder out for each load . The chrony I soon will get I might have to bug you a few times for how to use it and also one more thing I went to hornadys web site but didn't find any info on 240gr hornady xtp bullet for 44mag using w296 or h110 powders . Thanks again sir.
 
#33 ·
I’m a big fan of press priming my pistols and AR brass but for rifles I use a hand primer. For my style of shooting using a hand primer, it gives me a better feel for seating and a heads-up on loose or close to failing pockets.
 
#34 ·
Woodsey495, Gee, I think I could almost write a book on the scales I've had. Like I said above, I bought an RCBS Ammo Crafter kit that included a RCBS 5-0-5 scale (made by Ohaus). I used this scale for many years then bought my first digital scale ..... a Pact (can't remember the model). It worked great for weighing bullets or powder charges but would go into Error if I tried to trickle up a load. I then bought a new digital scale that would work when trickling up a charge but it required constant rezeroing or it wouldn't weigh accurately. A couple more digital scales later (both with their issues), I finally learned my lesson and went back to my old RCBS 5-0-5. I really like the features of the digital scales like "tare weight" or "piece counting" but all in all, the good ol' balance beam always worked, never had to recalibrate it, never had to deal with interference from flourecent lights or wireless phones and never have to replace batteries. I do have a good set of Ohause check weights that get used periodically and after almost a half century, I've never had an instance where the scale read wrong.

The powder I use will determine if I weigh each powder charge ... or not. For example, my powder measure drops ball powder like W-231, W-296, W-748, and a few other just about perfect .... so good that I can't detect a difference with my RCBS 5-0-5. Flake powder such as Unique always stays within +or- .1 gr so I don't weigh each charge. Extruded rifle powder drops terrible so I trickle up each charge to the exact weight. One thing I just don't understand ..... some people only weigh every tenth charge (or some other number). I fail to see what this proves .... what happens to the other 90%? If you don't trust your powder measure, weigh every charge. If you do trust it, set the initial charge weight and keep truckin'
 
#35 ·
Amen : Well said and Thanks . I measure everything out with my 5 0 5 not because I don't trust my self it's because I get pure enjoyment out of all of it . Step by step reloading and processing cleaning everthing to me is like a kid in a candy store .
 
#36 ·
Case-head separation

Case-head separation, (Incipient Case-head separation) can cause a real problem and can be dangerous to the shooter. The problem part is when you try to eject your cartridge and the only thing that comes out is the case-head just above the web while the rest of your cartridge is stuck in the chamber. the dangerous part is from the hot gases escaping from the bolt/breach area with your face inches away.

Case-head separation is caused by a thinning of the case wall, generally just above the web. The two major causes of it are the repeated firing and resizing of the case, the other being improper die set up, (pushing the shoulder a couple of thousandths to far back each time it's resized).

Every time your fire a case it expanded to your individual chamber, you then resize it back to SAAMI specs, fire it again and resized it, the brass has no where to go but up. At some point in time the constant flow of the brass moving forward thins the walls in the web area, eventually this thinning will cause the case to fail.

There is a way to slow it down and a way to check cases, visually and by feel. I slow it down by using a headspace gauge, taking a measurement and then adjusting my sizing die to only move the shoulder back .002 not back to SAAMI specs.

You can visually inspect a case by looking for a ring around the case just up from the web, you won't feel it, but you will see it. The other thing I do involves no special tool, just a paperclip. Straighten out a paperclip, put a 1/8" bend on one end and snip it at a 45 degree angel, (similar to a chisel). Insert the paperclip in the neck of your case and drag the paperclip up the wall from the base/web. The case wall should be smooth, if you feel a catch/valley as you pull up it's a sign that the case wall is thinning out and that it should probably be trashed. I've encountered this once with a belted magnum, the valley was minimal, after another firing it was deeper it was at that point I put a hammer to the case mouth and tossed it.
 
#37 ·
I'm quite certain the veteran reloaders know this, but if you use a powder measure with a hopper on it, empty it each time you get through loading. If you don't the powder is liable to stain your hopper and besides that, it needs to go back in the proper container for safety's sake. I even keep a pad of small post-it notes on my bench. Each time I fill the hopper, I write the type of powder on it and stick it on the hopper. A small thing, but crap happens and you'll always know what's in your powder measure.
 
#41 ·
Two things I have done that over the years that I feel was helpful. I went to a local granite/stone counter top contractor and bought a 24 by 24 piece of Marble countertop that I have on my bench to hold my powder scale and to use to stand casing. I applied felt pads on the bottom to allow easy movement. It is a nice work surface that is durable and easy to clean and not expensive. Second recommendation when cleaning brass. I suggest a tumbler that is water tight. Buy the stainless steel pins for the media. Dump pins in tumbler, the brass to clean, a shot of dawn dish soap and a shot of limi-shine and enough water to cover the solids. Let it tumble for about 6 hours. The brass comes out as clean as new unfired including the inside and the primer pockets.
 
#43 ·
Keep a computer and printer nearby. I will check every resource available to cross check load 'recipes'. Each vendor has their own version of reloading manuals and there are some helpful tables online. Once I get dialed in I will print the recipe and mark it with my final weights and sizes. I will put it aside when I want to use it again. Has helped me lots when jumping calibers and for different guns.
 
#44 ·
Printed reloading manuals are still good to have around.

Relying only on a computer and manufacturer's posted data leaves a lot of invaluable information out of your reach . Buy printed Manuals and Read them ...you will not find everything on a web site.

I don't care what the computer jockeys say ... the computer isn't the answer to everything.

Load information is Data...Cookbooks have recipes .. my pet peeve !

Gary
 
#45 ·
Printed reloading manuals are still good to have around.

I don't care what the computer jockeys say ... the computer isn't the answer to everything.

Load information is Data...Cookbooks have recipes .. my pet peeve !

Gary
Gary raises a good point, the online data is only as good as the listed components, I.E. the MFG of bullets primers and case, it all has an impact in my opinion. And yes, I do on occasion use online data, but its not generally my first "go to".

I've used cookbooks too and it didn't always pan out as expected..............
 
#46 ·
Excellent thread. Something I've been wanting to start doing and this is invaluable information I will use as a reference.

I have a nice solid oak desk that I use as my gun cleaning station and was thinking about dual purpose it for reloading along with maybe adding a locking storage on the wall with a light underneath.
I've never been able to stand long periods of time. Not going into anymore more details on that, but does anyone sit during reloading and would it be doable?
 
#47 ·
does anyone sit during reloading and would it be doable?
You mean people stand?......Mark, I have always sat down at the bench, when I was broke in the ole boy had two stools, so I don't know any different. I usually set my benches at 41"s and my stools are 30"s, for my size/height it works good.


I think standing would make it less enjoyable......at least for me anyway.
 
#48 ·
great idea for a a sticky thread, and timely as well (for me, at least)! i'm seriously considering getting into reloading, with a long view to the cost/savings, short/overall view to recreation and increased knowledge.

over the past few years, i've been accumulating all the raw materials, and have plenty to get started at this point (including fmj 9mm bullets).

setting .22 aside for obvious reasons, most of the shooting i do, and most of the reloading i'm considering doing, is 9mm, followed by .44, followed by 30-06. i would say 80%, 15%, and 5%, respectively (and i think i'm likely to get a simple single stage dedicated setup for the 30-06, IF i even bother).

here's where the crux of my question comes in: given the above, i'm at a bit of a loss as to choosing a viable, progressive press .... what brand and setup to choose? a few years ago, i was looking at top-end dillon setups, but those are no longer financially a good option for me. i've looked at lee (for price), but have seen so many videos of people sharing how-to-overcome/workaround problems with a variety of the lee systems that i'm wary.

i'm guessing a hornady (right at the top of my financial ability right now) might be better, but is it SO much more reliable and efficient in its design and end product that it's worth the extra money?

i've looked at reviews, and some (with both hornady AND lee) have people make statements like "i used my dillon for 20 years and loved it, but now i see that i don't need to spend that kind of money." problem is, i don't know them, their background, their needs, OR the value of their opinions. lol.

i guess i'm boiling my question down to this (finally): what are the thoughts of experienced reloaders who have recently bought new systems, and have recommendations, based on that... on the changes and improvements that have been made recently by various manufacturers?
 
#49 · (Edited)
Argo, Good questions, however your post will turn this into a "brand war". As soon as brand name are mentioned, is like a bunch of playground school kids choose up sides for an oncoming fight.

Keeping it generic, if you are thinking about getting into reloading just to save money, think again. Even with the cheapest equipment, you still have the ongoing cost of supplies. If you shoot a lot of ammo every month, then there would be a cost savings at some point in the future but with the increased cost of components and equipment, it may take many years to realize it.

I've had my equipment for decades and have loaded many thousands of rounds so my cost to reload is notably cheaper than factory ammo. The exception is 9mm or 40 S&W where you can find ammo on sale for less than the combined cost of powder, bullets, and primers. Likewise with 30-'06, 30-30, and 223 Rem. Where you really save a lot is with certain cartridges like 45 Colt, 41 Mag, 30 Carb and other "not so popular" cartridges. Name brand 357 Mag and 44 Mag ammo at Walmart is not much more than the cost of components. Seems every dollar I save on reloading gets spent on more supplies and of course the latest goodies.

I think most of use die hard reloaders do it because the hobby supports our other hobby …. shooting. It's really fun to see how accurate you can make ammo and how you can tailor ammo to a specific gun for a specific use and usually do it for less than the cost of factory ammo.

As for selecting the right brand of equipment …. think about the long term cost, not just the initial cost. Most reloading equipment will last a very long time if you take care of it. Progressive presses are way more expensive than single stage or turret presses so you are paying a lot for speed. In my younger days, my free time was very limited so I needed a press that would crank out high quality ammo at a fast pace. Now I find I can get along just fine with a single stage press because I don't shoot very often and have a lot of free time.

I know it sounds like I am discouraging you from getting into reloading but that's not true. It's a great hobby where you can learn a lot about your guns and fill your free time with productive results …. much like buying wood working equipment to build your own furniture.
 
#51 ·
I remember a pistol loader on the forum saying he was thinking about moving into rifle reloading. They are similar, but also different, where I'm going with this load development.

Don't let anyone talk you into thinking you need to run your rifle loads at a max charge, as a whole it's not true. Yes, you may need to on certain rifles you own, but in general it's not necessary. Velocity does not equate to accuracy. Out of the nine rifles I load for there is not a single one where I didn't find an accuracy node some where just above the middle of the min/max charge in any published load I've used regardless of bullet or powder combination.

I will generally start two grains below the middle the charge range and load in increments of .5 grains for cases that have a large case volume. For smaller volume cases ie .204, .223, .22-250 I load those in increments of .3 grains, reason being I'm using less powder, so if I'm loading them in increments of .5 I could miss a node all together.

I'll load up a total of 12, (four charge weights, three cases a charge) and shoot'em up. If nothing looks good I'll bump the charge up and start over. From there I'll take the best group of the four different charge weights and load up .1 grains and .2 grains and then load down .1 and .2 from the original charge weight, again for a total of 12 loads. I will load them like this regardless of case volume. Accuracy doesn't come easy, it's a process.

Of course YMMV, but this approach has worked for me for 32 years.
 
#52 · (Edited)
lowegan sez: "Now I find I can get along just fine with a single stage press because I don't shoot very often and have a lot of free time."

Olde, way past my Use By Date, Hollywood Senior Press GONRA agrees.

Also mentions that (for me) each caliber hasa HIGHLY SPECIFIC RECIPE array of RCBS, CH (olde), CH4D, Hornady, Lee, Home Made Tools/Die on hand - references on-the-record.

Not to mention (REALLY Olde) Lyman and Lee bullet moulds, Corbin swaging & (3) CH Swag-O-Matic presses / dies.

So can reload anything I wannado.....
 
#53 ·
I also support this idea of supporting the new reloader. I remember having many conversations with my mentor over a number of years when I first got started. I chuckled reading Iowegan’s post because once I got started and felt comfortable I started experimenting with powders and different bullet manufacturers. Now I’m settling in on some bullet/powder combinations I use most frequently. This will eliminate some unnecessary supplies. I don’t use lead bullets and wholly endorse starting with jacketed bullet/powder recommendations from manuals. Some, if not most manuals also have a primer on reloading. A good read to start. I also support the recommendation to start with single stage and work to the progressive. I have a friend who bought a progressive first and struggled with setup because he did not know the basics of reloading. Now we have to encourage newbies to ask questions, no matter how silly they might think the questioun might be. I also encourage mentoring if someone can work with another experienced reloader in their area. I’m always open to helping someone learn the process.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Case lube alternitaves

I don't know about most, but over the last 32 years I've had my experience with a variety of case lubes and they are products that I have found to work and some that worked, but not quite so well as far as the "price" was concerned. I've used Imperial, (messy clean-up) , Horandy one shot , (mostly compressed air) and everything in between. What I have found to work the best, (cost vs. quantity) is a "home brew" case lube I found years ago on the interweb.

What you will need is:

Swans Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%

Home Health liquid Lanoline, 4 oz

A Chemical Guys ACC_121.16 HD chemical resistant spray bottle, (16 oz)

Start by drawing a line on the spray bottle 4" up from the bottom and mark it "Alcohol".

Draw a line .4" (calipers will work, just get it close) above the alcohol line and mark that line as "lanoline".

Fill the alcohol line first and then add the lanoline to the "lanoline" line.

Shake the bottle prior to use to get the lanoline off the bottom. There are different ways to apply the lube, one being putting the cases in a loading block and spraying, the other, (which I prefer) is to lay them down on a "confiscated" cookie sheet lined with a paper towel. I lay them down, spray, I then roll them 180 and spray again. I always spray with the case necks facing me so I can get lube inside the case neck. Wait 5 minutes before sizing.

The cost between this formula and Hornady's One shot is crazy, the price difference is like 3 to 1.

Most of the products required can be had on Amazon or your local drug store, the alcohol seems to be an "Amazon" thing though.

P.S. This stuff is the "bomb".....IMO
 
  • Like
Reactions: rmichael63
#57 ·
Most folks have probably thought of this, but I hadn't...put down some rubber flooring or carpet or other soft surface. After I bent or damaged a few reloading tools, and seated a few cartridges a little deeper, I finally got some rubber flooring. Felt pretty smart the next time I dropped something.
 
#59 ·
I am a newcomer to the hobby and have learned a lot from this forum and the knowledge shared. I have struggled with keeping a “clean” area for reloading from cross contamination from garage crud and various cleaning solutions.

I recently moved into a new location with space. Now, de-priming and case cleaning is on a workbench in the garage. (I do have a Rockcrusher Junior dedicated to de-priming.). That bench is also set for gun cleaning.

I do have the luxury of a spare bedroom that is now dedicated for reloading. Like Iowegean, I found that a 12x12 square of granite tile (salvaged from a display sample) is a great smooth surface.

I use a repurposed computer desk for case prep, priming and powder loading. My press sits on its own stand, a cabinet with 3/4 in plywood top.

One thing not mentioned is lighting. I like to see what in am doing and proper lighting makes the task easier. I use LED lights on swing arms to adjust light to limit shadows. One light also has a magnifier.

That dedicated room does hold my sensitive materials that can be locked away when company visits.

Finally, powder storage. I have several types and a bottle two extra. There are fire code restrictions in many communities that limit the amount of powder or other flammable materials that can be stored without special approved cabinets. Use care in storing and handling primers and powder.
 
#60 ·
Here in CA, I am looking at reloading only because the gov't is making ammo purchases more and more difficult every year.

My interest is SASS and 38SP mouse-fart loads for that purpose.
As noted above, this sort of ammo can be had from Walmart, etc, for very little more than the (significant) investment in the reloading hardware, and materials.
 
#61 ·
I reloaded for years, then life got in the way. My stuff has been packed up since about 2005, and I recently unpacked it. Looking at all that stuff, I was somewhat overwhelmed. I grabbed the old manuals, and realized how out of date they were. I bought a new manual. I am reading the new manual. I dug out the Dillon instruction video. I am watching the video repeatedly.

I actually started with a Lee Loader hand load set as a teen. I do not recommend it, as it required a mallet to perform the functions of a press. The good part, though, was the instructions were so simple even I could figure them out.
 
#62 ·
I just thought I’d pass this along, do with it what you will. We all as reloaders are all trying to get those “bug hole” groups, I have something to offer that may help.

This has to do with measured concentricity (run-out) on case necks and bullets. The fix is a #17 O-Ring on the underside of the die lock ring. Doing this allows the die to self align itself to the case that’s being sized.

If the flat surface on the top of your press is not perfectly square with the thread axis on your die it can end up slightly off angle. This happens when the bottom of the die lock ring butts up tight against the top of the press. The O-Ring allows the die to float a little which “may” reduce the amount of run-out induced during case sizing.

Now this is not a guaranteed fix, but I have a concentricity gauge so I have the ability to see the difference between O-Ring and no O-Ring. If you don’t have a way to check for run-out you should be able to see it on your targets. You may think correcting your run-out by only .002 isn’t a big deal, but you will see a difference, even at 100yds.

I also use them on my seating die.....same concept.

As with anything people are going to see mixed results, but for the price of a Happy Meal at McDonalds you can probably outfit most of your dies, ($2.49 average price for 10). Or you can purchase a coax press ($250 minimum), it will do the same thing, only much better.
 
Top