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Discussion Starter #1
I converted another gun and a shooter as well! A friend was admiring one of my 1022 builds. I noticed he was beginning to get sweaty palms over the entire experience so before it progressed to a religious experience with him I suggested a trip to print some paper.

End of story...He's Cooked, Hooked..Addicted...Totally absorbed!:D

So I built this for him!





Barracuda Stock in camo which I hand finished with 15 coats of my special "proprietary blend";)
Extended Mag Release
Auto Bolt Release
Trigger job via Power Custom comp hammer to a crisp 2.75 lbs
Springs change out
BSA 4X16X40AO Target Scope w/ 4 inch lens shade His choice not mine
Hex stock screw for better torque and control
Bolt Buffer (PolyU)
Polished all mating surfaces including charging rod and exposed portion of bolt
This is a relatively lo dough gun which every newbie and even some wouldbee antis should shoot and own!:)

This will be a walk around gun until he opts for a bull barrel
The beauty of the stock is it's channeless..so one size fits all!
I sent this pic to him. He was to pick it up Tues but he's mysteriously moved up the date to tom! :D
Is this the easiest sell around or what?;)

SD
 

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The surest way to get people into shooting is a .22. And that is a nice one to do it with. I hope your friend has alot of fun with it. Great build.
 

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SD.........

Have you done one in the other direction as in tactical or as some say "tacticool"?;)
 

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I have the same stock in Blue and silver, but mine dosn't POP like yours. SD did you get the stock unfinished and then do your wonders? Now I want to start over and refinish mine.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks gang!
We all like to recruit and in some cases convert newbies. This is a surefire way to do it. After an outing with one of these shooters one quickly associates guns with fun and good companionship and not all the other contrieved garbage.
I'm not suggesting "range day" with Sara but they will convert the otherwise nonconvertible!:)

ec0075, Yes, I get 'em (stocks) as unfinished as possible and then fit if necessary, sand progressively and then slowly and patiently apply the finish.
I actually was so disappointed with a couple of new factory finished ones that I stripped them and started over.

Not to hijack my own thread but one of my favorite pastimes over the past few years has been to rescue the original old walnut 1022 carbine stocks. They are a vanishing breed since Ruger discontinued the walnut just prior to 1983ish but occassionally can be found and in need of some TLC!
They do however continue to make the DSP from walnut but it's a far cry from the rich walnut of old.

Here's a DSP which belonged to a friend's now deceased father...I rejuvenated it for my friend and the grandkids. It literally looked as though it had been beaten with a chain in the before pic!



It made a unique gift!:)

SD
 

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Good job with that stock, SD. I've done about 6 in my life time. I've found that removing the old finish is easiest when using a bead blaster. For reapplying I've always doen them by hand. Do you do it that way, or spray?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BH, I never have had a bead blaster available to me but it sounds like a great way to go.
I generally apply finish by hand with a lint-less chamois type cloth. I rub it in. Sometimes depending on the look I'm going for I'll use wet dry paper and apply multiply coats while sanding it in. It creates a slurry which fills pores faster and more effectively...It's messy but comes out nice.

SD
 

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SD, what do you suggest on the best way to repair a crack in the stock? I have one in an old stock on the bottom, forward of the trigger group, running toward the foregrip about 4" long. Need to repair it next time I refinish the stock.
BTW, I've truly hand rubbed in tung oil and the new minwax poly finish to good effect. I prefer a satin finish so usually takke 0000 steel wool to the stock between coats and after the final coat to take the gloss down a notch.
I may try the wet/dry paper when applying, sounds like that would help in filling the pores a little quicker. Thanks for the tip!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
jimbo,
Depending on the size and length of the crack clear epoxy applied strategically can work wonders. Again the wet /dry routine can aid in the cover up! I've injected cracks with epoxy via a hypo. Those cracks were able to be spread slightly and carefully. It's touchy.... but works!
I've actually used nothing more than several coats of tung oil after proper sanding on hairline cracks which strengthen and conceal very well.
Just think it through, prep the area properly and judiciously tackle it.

SD
 
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