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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am curious.....how many folks on the forum have built or do build their own flash hiders or muzzle brakes. I'm building a flash brake....or is it a muzzle hider? It's a morph of both. It's a simple little thing I'm making to hopefully enhance the looks of my new Savage MKII FV-SR. I think it'll look cool anyway. :) I'll get some pics up when I get it finished.
 

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"The Real Deal"
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I am curious.....how many folks on the forum have built or do build their own flash hiders or muzzle brakes. I'm building a flash brake....or is it a muzzle hider? It's a morph of both. It's a simple little thing I'm making to hopefully enhance the looks of my new Savage MKII FV-SR. I think it'll look cool anyway. :) I'll get some pics up when I get it finished.
I have built one for my mini 30. I have a 1998 stainless mini 30 that I wanted a flashider better than the one or two you could find commercially. I wanted a stainless flashider that looked identical to the M14 original flashider except made for the Ruger. Well, ended up going to the machine shop and used 416 stainless to build this one. Now its true to its family heritage. If I could have removed the barrel I would have threaded it, instead I dimpled the barrel and used a set screw thats countersunk, works great and looks even better.

 

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Ironhat
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Hey there, Tacky, nice job!! Have you noticed any muzzle braking properties with your flash hider? Just wondering.

Later,
Chiz
 

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"The Real Deal"
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Hey there, Tacky, nice job!! Have you noticed any muzzle braking properties with your flash hider? Just wondering.

Later,
Chiz
Thanks, I really love the look of it and never seen another mini 30 with a flashider of this type. Most people think its a mini 14 until they see the 7.62x39 stamped on the receiver.

Well, the mini 30 does recoil lighter than the Romak Ak47 I have with its slant hider, and i would say its close if not equal to the Romak Ak47 I have that has a krink brake installed, very little if non exsistant. I have shot under 1 moa at 100 yards with this gun, off bags, with handloads I made up for it using the 110 grain .308 Vmax and Accurate 1680 powder.

Also a weird comparison my M1a scout came with the SA muzzle brake installed, I later bought a SA flashider and milled off the bayonet lug so I could use it on my 18"scout (without doing that you have to remove the flashider to field strip and clean the gas piston assembly) and with this same style flashider installed the Scout has noticeable increase in recoil compared to the brake. Not so with the mini 30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well, I finished it this morning. I think it turned out pretty good. I just need to get the finish on it now. Sorry the pictures stink.
 

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"The Real Deal"
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Well, I finished it this morning. I think it turned out pretty good. I just need to get the finish on it now. Sorry the pictures stink.
Still a custom looking rifle, Looks great buddy!
 

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"The Real Deal"
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You know i was browsing through the latest issue of book of the AR15 magazine yesterday and saw a compensator, a companies making that appears identical to the one you built for an AR platform, gonna see if I can locate it on the web and send you the information on it. Also i am interested in how it changes your recoil, and how it effects your gun when fired.

You know yours really reminds me of my Winchester black shadow in 7mm rem mag, it has a boss on it, wouldn't shoot it alot if it didn't. Wish I had your heaver barrel though, mine is a sporter profile.
 

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Well, I finished it this morning. I think it turned out pretty good. I just need to get the finish on it now. Sorry the pictures stink.
Looks great to me... :D

So does Tacky's...

How about sharing all the details of what/how/why...

I have a slip on muzzle brake on sks...20" barrel...22" with brake...would like to cut down barrel and add muzzle brake (permanent/brazed) for a finished barrel length of 16"...

I am considering making an aluminum slip on brake for my 10/22 aluminum barrel also...only with a ball post and globe made into it...

Sort of like this one...this pic is of a half-baked prototype that I plan to redo as a billet piece later...



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I would love to incorporate a muzzle brake into it...

Could use advise... :D
 

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"The Real Deal"
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Looks great to me... :D

So does Tacky's...

How about sharing all the details of what/how/why...

I have a slip on muzzle brake on sks...20" barrel...22" with brake...would like to cut down barrel and add muzzle brake (permanent/brazed) for a finished barrel length of 16"...

I am considering making an aluminum slip on brake for my 10/22 aluminum barrel also...only with a ball post and globe made into it...

Sort of like this one...this pic is of a half-baked prototype that I plan to redo as a billet piece later...

I would love to incorporate a muzzle brake into it...

Could use advise... :D
I also own 10/22 that I built that looks alot like yours, Butler Creek Fluted .920 barrel black, with a hogue overmold on it as well. What I also did with mine was took the barrel off, carried it to the machine shop and threaded it 1/2"-28 tpi same as the AR-15 platform, and such will use all the muzzle devices made for the Ar15 platform. I have a yhm thread protector on it but the future plan and reason I threaded it was to suppress it. I also own a standard 10/22 with a slip on flashider thats secured by a set screw, I can't remember who made it but its been on there atleast 20 years, and before the awb ban. It closely resembles the AR A1 style hider, no issues with it loosening up. I really like the idea with your sights, reminds me of the HK Mp5 series of rifles with that hooded front. As for the sks, i don't own one but my experience with hiders and comps on many other guns is that if you use a set screw style, you need to dimple the barrel so the set screw has something to bite into, or you could possibly see the comp going down range with the bullet, I have seen that on a friends saiga. I also know that there is a tap die set for the AK series rifles which is 14x1mm left hand thread, saw them at brownells or maybe midway usa. That would allow you to use any AK hider or comp on the sks series rifles. Its not as good as completely removing the barrel and putting it in a lathe, but way better than the set screw setup. Be aware you have to be careful using that kit, and make sure you thread it straight, its very easy not when using those type of dies by hand. However it would give you something completely custom and there are an endless supply of comps and hiders for the AK. Just a few thoughts.

Also be very careful if your going to cut it down since you will have to recrown/ recess the barrel, or your accuracy will suffer, I haven't personally recrowned a barrel so someone that has could give you more information than me on that.
 

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Thanks for tips...

The brake on sks is old...I did dimple it and the sets are in with red loctite...it's been on for over 10 years...works really well...but I want to get rid of 6" of length and keep the brake...so I was figuring on threading the barrel...I am inclined to take it to a Smith for the cut/bevel/thread/braze...if I ever get around to it...

The 10/22 on the other hand... :D

I will be machining a billet version of what is in the picture...I can't tell you how much I love that peep/post/globe in the picture...

The thing is what does it take to do a good job of executing on both brake effectiveness and accuracy...that I am not sure about...

It will be aluminum...for the weight...and it will be kept as short as possible...I doubt seriously if there is anything made that is exactly what I want...I am definitely not going to thread that aluminum barrel...I should have spent a few bucks more for a threaded one...that would make machining a precision fit brake/globe/post easier or should I say more precise...

Anyway...not real sure...so all advice welcome...

Thanks...
 

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"The Real Deal"
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Thanks for tips...

The brake on sks is old...I did dimple it and the sets are in with red loctite...it's been on for over 10 years...works really well...but I want to get rid of 6" of length and keep the brake...so I was figuring on threading the barrel...I am inclined to take it to a Smith for the cut/bevel/thread/braze...if I ever get around to it...

The 10/22 on the other hand... :D

I will be machining a billet version of what is in the picture...I can't tell you how much I love that peep/post/globe in the picture...

The thing is what does it take to do a good job of executing on both brake effectiveness and accuracy...that I am not sure about...

It will be aluminum...for the weight...and it will be kept as short as possible...I doubt seriously if there is anything made that is exactly what I want...I am definitely not going to thread that aluminum barrel...I should have spent a few bucks more for a threaded one...that would make machining a precision fit brake/globe/post easier or should I say more precise...

Anyway...not real sure...so all advice welcome...

Thanks...
So it has an aluminum barrel, that changes things I assumed it was steel.

Also my opinion on comps flashiders and brakes or what I have learned so far. Most do only one thing well, the flashider like the vortex hides flash well, but does nothing for a brake, or comp. On the other hand the brakes work real well for muzzle control, but in most cases increase the amount of flash seen since its diverting the gas to control the muzzle. There is only one way that I know of to suppress flash, and lessen recoil, thats install a suppressor. But that creates problems in its own. I do however think a sks would be cool shortened, never seen one done that way.
 

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Norinco did make a 'paratrooper' with a 16" barrel...of course they did not come with brakes...not many to be found...mine is a Norinco...60's model...original stock gone...the brake I put on it is very effective...the gun is accurate at 100 yards now...I would like to keep it that way...but want it shorter and lighter

Maybe I was wrong but I assumed that 'compensator' was a muzzle brake compensating for recoil...as opposed to a noise suppressor which I thought was another term for silencer......I really don't care about flash hider/suppressor or silencer...only muzzle flip...that is true for both sks and 10/22...so I will stick with the term I know is not confusing which is muzzle brake... :D

With the light barrel (TacSol barrel weighs 1/2 of factory sporter barrel) and high velocity ammo the muzzle flip is significant on the 10/22...

So I figured as long as I am making a billet sight assembly I might as well try to incorporate a muzzle brake into it...shortest possible length and weight...

Looking for specific information on the finer points of making a muzzle brake from scratch...

For the 10/22 I just want to keep the muzzle flip as close to zero as possible with 1200-1200fps rounds...primarily 40gr mini mags...and of course w/o adversely affecting accuracy...at least not much out to 60 yards or so...

Not going to buy anything...just want to make my own...not sure about the details of the bore and the escape holes with regard to effectiveness and accuracy on the 22LR HV rounds...needs to be a lot more effective due to aluminum barrel...if fact if it were a steel bull barrel it would not even be something worth considering for me...since the flip on a factory barrel with the same ammo is almost nothing...
 
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