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The stock steel one works great in the thousands and thousands of 10/22's out there. The only thing those plastic and rubber buffers do is give you a warm fuzzy and stimulate the economy. If you really want one that bad go to your local hardware store and pick up a 1/4" nylon bolt for about .89 cents. It will work just as well as those $9 ones.
 

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I use them only to eliminate that annoying loud clank everytime the bolt flies back under recoil. It doesn't silence it completely, but it's a lot less noticeable. I've been using the 1/4" nylon bolt trick, but if you prefer a commercial option instead any of the ones you mentioned will do.
 

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[any others worth considering?


thanks in advance,
J[/QUOTE]

Wilson Combat makes the best, midway usa has them for $9 a piece last time i bought some, buy the best, you pay for what u get
 

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[any others worth considering?

Tuffer buffer 3 for $12 shipped. Plus he is a great guy to deal with. I like the softest buffers I can find Weaponkraft or tuffer buffer are the best. Have also used the VQ with the steel core pin. The gent originally selling the weaponkraft has passed on several years ago. Noise in the stock is what I am trying to eliminate.
 

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I went the 1/4" nylon bolt route a long time ago. It is a little quieter!
 

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6 of one, 1/2 dozen of another. Pick one from wherever you're ordering stuff from and go with it. No real big differences between them. More of a "feel good" thing any any real necessity. If it was that important, Ruger would've made them a standard thing years ago.
 

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The stock steel one works great in the thousands and thousands of 10/22's out there. The only thing those plastic and rubber buffers do is give you a warm fuzzy and stimulate the economy. If you really want one that bad go to your local hardware store and pick up a 1'4" nylon bolt for about .89 cents. It will work just as well as those $9 ones.

Couldn't quite make out the size of that nylon bolt you mentioned....
1foot 4 inches
1.4 inches
1/4 inch

Thanks
 

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Is the same true for trigger assemblies? I've been looking at Kidd and Volquartsen versions and was wondering if one was better than the other?
Oh no, big difference in the triggers. The Kidd is far and above consider the creme de la creme, bar none. The VQ assembly...well I have one and am so glad I didn't spend full price. it's no better of a trigger than those I've had re-worked by TT Shooter. For the price, you're basically buying the housing and the name. Now that said, unless you're going with the top-level stuff on the rest of the build - barrel, optics, action, assembly - going to the level of these, or the Kidd I guess, is a waste of $$$. Skimping on one component isn't compensated for by going over on another. The vast majority of folks would be very happy with a simple DIY method. It does make a big difference. If you are to go to that level, also consider Jard. I love mine and would certainly go with another. I'd put it just below the Kidd.
 

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Oh no, big difference in the triggers. The Kidd is far and above consider the creme de la creme, bar none. The VQ assembly...well I have one and am so glad I didn't spend full price. it's no better of a trigger than those I've had re-worked by TT Shooter. For the price, you're basically buying the housing and the name. Now that said, unless you're going with the top-level stuff on the rest of the build - barrel, optics, action, assembly - going to the level of these, or the Kidd I guess, is a waste of $$$. Skimping on one component isn't compensated for by going over on another. The vast majority of folks would be very happy with a simple DIY method. It does make a big difference. If you are to go to that level, also consider Jard. I love mine and would certainly go with another. I'd put it just below the Kidd.
Great info, Thank you! Loving this forum already.
 
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