I have two scopes I use on my 10/22s...I used to be a snob about not needing artificial help for 100 yards or less. That was then and this is now -- open sights don't work for me anymore. What are you using and how are they working for you?
That presumes use of the factory carbine stock of course. The Weaver rail is the T09. Available almost anywhere they have rings for around $10 in blue & silver.....the cheek rest for the factory gun is for the factory sights...which are set at approximately 1/2" above the center of the bore...odds are you will get a scope with an eye level of approximately 1-7/16" above the center of the bore...makes it very difficult to use the scope correctly...
One more thing...the factory rail on the 10/22 is UNDER SIZED on the width for Weaver Brand, Weaver style rings...I highly recommend getting a better one...the cheap Weaver brand tip off rails are very nice for under $10 and fit perfectly with low cost Weaver and low cost Leupold Rifleman aluminum rings which are both ideal imo for the average 1022...
This scope was absolute first choice's for a while but I couldn't grab a good enough deal on ebay. They kept getting bidded to high.IMHO, too many shooter put too large a scope on their rifles and it's usually mounted far too high.
Even when the stock is cut to accommodate a high line of sight optic, it's still less than optimum as the higher line of sight over the bore centerline has an impact on the angle of departure. That is doubly true on a .22LR that is by definition zeroed at fairly close ranges of 25, 50 or 100 yards, and already has a very rainbow like trajectory.
In terms of magnification, and objective sizes more is often not better. For example, a 10/22 is a light handy carbine - until you saddle it with a large 40mm or 50mm objective variable scope. It then becomes top heavy and it's got way more magnification than it needs.
In addition, large magnification does not equate to sharp resolution unless the quality of the lenses is quite high. For example, there are many low end scopes with 20x, 24x or 36x magnification in 44mm or 50mm objective lenses and all of them will get fuzzy and lose resolution at the higher magnifications and they will also not have adequate light except possibly under bright sunlight conditions.
The reasons for that are pretty clear - no pun intended. Ideally you want an exit pupil no smaller than about 4 for low light/cloudy day conditions (and 5 is better). The exit pupil is found by dividing the objective lens by the magnification, so a 20x scope with a 44 mm objective will have an exit pupil of only 2.2, and that's about the size of your pupil in bright high noon sunlight on a cloudless summer day. Realistically, you 20x variable scope with a 44mm objective than is limited to about 10x on the average day before the image quality goes south in terms of both brightness and resolution.
Worse, large objectives are harder to make with the required precision, so an inexpensive scope with low quality optics and a large objective lens still won't deliver high resolution even in good light. You'll note distortion out at the edges of the field of view, and worst case in a really low quality scope, the center of the scope will have some distortion as well.
Also, cheap scopes have lower quality lens coatings with greater internal reflection and greater light loss. Variables also add 2 or 3 more lenses (depending on the design) and lose even more light to internal reflection than a fixed power scope. In addition, inexpensive variables tend to have alignment issues and the zero will often wander around as the magnification is changed.
Inexpensive scopes also tend to have single piece lenses that suffer from chromatic aberration, while higher quality scopes will use either achromatic lenses made from a doublet of two types of glass, or will be made from an extra low dispersion glass (ED). Chromatic aberration is essentially an issue of different wavelengths of light coming to different focal points, meaning the image will be fuzzy and lack a sharp focus as the wavelengths cannot converge at the same point. Achromatic and ED lenses correct for this and allow a sharp focus, which equates directly to better resolution.
Finally, an inexpensive scope will not normally have consistent and repeatable adjustments. There will often be back lash in the screws, so an adjustment won't show any effect for the first few clicks, and then it will continue to move over the course of a few shots until it rests on the same face again, meaning you usually overshoot the adjustment you wanted. It's also not uncommon to find they are not properly aligned with the crosshair, so that each adjustment has both a horizontal and vertical component. It's livable if you never adjust the sights for windage or elevation - assuming the scope will hold a zero - but establishing that zero is never enjoyable.
So... all things being considered, you are better off buying a lower magnification optic with better quality lenses that will allow less light loss, sharper focus and better resolution. You'll see .22 caliber holes at 100 yards with a quality 2-7x, 3-9x or fixed power 6x scope easier and with far greater sharpness that you will with a cheap 4-16x or 6.5-20x scope.
I have either Leupold 3-9x33mm or Leupold 2-7x33 scopes on all my .22LRs - with the exception of an Anschutz that has a fixed power Leupold M8 12x40mm scope.
At 9x a 33 mm scope has a 3.67mm exit pupil, and at 7x the exit pupil is 4.71 - nearly ideal even in low light conditions. The optical quality is very good with sharp resolution from edge to edge, the optics are well aligned with no change in zero as the power is changed and the adjustments are back lash free, consistent and repeatable.
Consequently the light weight and smaller footprint of those scopes, combined with decent quality optics and rock solid adjustments means everything it brings to the rifle is actually usable, instead of just marketing hype. And, since it's a 33mm scope, on low rings and a standard Weaver rail it tends to be low and close to the barrel, minimizing problems establishing a consistent cheek weld.
I should add here that I don't own a .22 rifle zeroed at less than 100 yards and I normally shoot at 100-200 yards with them.
Again, all you need is enough magnification to see the target, you don't need over kill on a field rifle, and you don't want to put yourself in the position of trading resolution and image brightness for excessive magnification.
Now if you plan on bench rest shooting at paper targets, then more magnification is a benefit to more accurately see and bi-sect the X-ring - but again I'd go for quality and I'd choose a fixed power scope of moderate 12x or 16x magnification over a 24x or 36x scope, especially if I ever planned on shooting it prone rather than off a bench. With my 12x40mm M8, the exit pupil is still 3.3, so while it's not a low light scope it still delivers good image resolution and brightness even on all but the darkest over cast days. More power would mostly be a detriment to the real world shooting I do with it.
On a standard 10/22 carbine, I feel a quality variable in the 2-7 range is ideal. It offers enough magnification to see targets out to the effective range of the carbine, the low end of the range offers the wide field of view needed to see and acquire short range and/or moving targets, and it's not overly large in size for the proportions of the carbine.
Here's my 10/22 with a Leupold VX1 2-7x33 on low millet rings and a Weaver T0-9 base. It's as large and as high as I'd go on a 10/22 carbine.
I've never seen a turret screw with backlash. When you turn a turret screw tighter, it will force the inside tube to move ... no exceptions. The problem with many scopes ... yes, even some more expensive models is ... the leaf spring that pushes the inside tube against the tips of the turret screws. When you back off the turret screw, the leaf spring may not be strong enough to keep the inside tube pressed against the turret screws or the round inside tube will bind on the screw tips. Simple fix ... just give the top and side turret screws a light wrap with a plastic screwdriver handle. This will allow the inside tube to seat properly on the turret screw tips. If you follow "best practices" when zeroing a scope, this effect should never happen. By intentionally setting the turret screws out a half turn, as you walk in zero, you should only be turning the screws tighter, which will eliminate this effect.There will often be back lash in the screws, so an adjustment won't show any effect for the first few clicks, and then it will continue to move