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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #1
Just got it new Friday. At 10 yds it shoots 12 in high with acp and 6 in high with cowboy loads. The windage is fine. I know ruger doesn't really fine tune the sights but I never thought it would be off this much. Maybe need to back up and try at 30 yds.
 

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Yep, run your rear sight down until you are on target. That's why they call them 'adjustable' sights :) . Note, that if you bottom out the rear sight and it still shoots high, then you need a higher front sight which may then require a trip back to Ruger, if the front sight is soldered on the barrel.
 

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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #4
Gosh no, you'll be shooting three feet high then. Adjust your rear sight down.
Yep, I know that. I wanted to see how much the cb load dropped compared to the auto at 30. I would like to find a factory load 45 lc and 45 auto that would have a similar POI at maybe 30-40 yds. I don't reload yet, but am looking into it.
 

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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #5
Yep, run your rear sight down until you are on target. That's why they call them 'adjustable' sights :) . Note, that if you bottom out the rear sight and it still shoots high, then you need a higher front sight which may then require a trip back to Ruger, if the front sight is soldered on the barrel.
It's bottomed out. May check with the smith at the gun shop here and get it filed down. Seems I read that a SRH sight was an option. I thought Ruger set the sights to be in the ballpark, but 12" high at 10yds is way over the fence.
 

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If the rear sight is bottomed out and it still shoots high, then you need a 'taller' front sight. Filing (making front sight shorter) will only make it worse.
 

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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #8
If the rear sight is bottomed out and it still shoots high, then you need a 'taller' front sight. Filing (making front sight shorter) will only make it worse.
I was meaning the rear blade. My eyes tell me I should let younger eyes do this.
 

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Ahhh gotcha, ... still 12" is a 'lot' to make up for 10 yards distance.... You might want to shoot it and see how far down in the notch you have to put the top of the front sight, to get it shooting POA.
 

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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #10
When the front post is at the bottom of the notch, it's close to POA. Ruger has another rear sight that is supposed to be lower that they are sending. Maybe it might work.
 

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Count Ursunk
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Is there a certain technique to use when changing the cylinder? Never had a problem with my other blackhawks, but this one is a little finicky. I figured this forum would have a lot better advice than the Ruger cs. The base pin binds up about half way.
 

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mrb:

It may be bent.
If you can remove the base pin completely, you might roll it across a piece of glass to see if it wobbles. If that confirms it is bent, ask Ruger CS to send you a straight one.
Best luck.
-steve
 

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If it is bent, I'd get Ruger to send a new pin. Maybe it is just rough, you can polish it with some Emery paper or fine grit sandpaper, 600 grit or finer. Object being not to take off metal and reduce the diameter but just smooth it. Also smooth the hole in the cylinder that the pin goes in to. A bit harder, as you'll have to wrap a piece of the paper around a dowel or pin.

I also like to put a bevel on the cylinder pin hole on the front of the cylinder.
The pin starts in much easier then without a bunch of wiggling to get it in.

It would be nice if Ruger would use a pin in front sight on the blued models like they do on the stainless ones. Then it would be simple to change the front sight.
I haven't shot my .45 ACP cylinder much but will use it more now that I have another .45 ACP ( a S&W Shield in .45) and am stocking ammo for the ACP again.
 
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