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Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a superior arms stripped lower for an ar 15. I was wondering if any of you guys had any recomendations for kits. I have heard nothing but good things about jt distributing but model 1 sales gives me more options on a standard 20" rifle kit.
 

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I use del-ton.com. Good prices and fast shipping when stuff is in stock. You can get pretty much any configuration from them on the actual rifle.

My current one is a del-ton 20 inch upper with dpms, rock river, and pretty much everybody else's parts in it.
 

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As much as I could reasonably expect from a 20 inch barrel. After I got my sights dialed, mine hits the same spot every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks rp i was having trouble deciding between the bull barrel or the standard 20 i think the lighter wieght 20 would work better for me.
 

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In my opinion, guns should be very purpose built. Not a fan of the "all around performance" theories. I put together my AR to be mobile and lightweight, which were the advantages of the original design. I have no rails, lights, bipods, brakes, etc. The weapon is very durable and serves well enough in the field, and its place in my collection is the least likely to be needed, "in case there are riots." If I am in a situation where accuracy is paramount, I will be pulling out one of my bolt rifles.

In addition, and this is all one mans opinion, bull barrels add too much weight. "It's only a couple pounds" takes on a new meaning when that weight is more than 50% of the rifle, plus it all being at the front. The womans dad and both her brothers have bull barreled rifles and out of all three, not one can be shot comfortably in a standing position. A rest is necessary. Again, if you want an AR for it's "intended" purpose, I recommend it be kept as close to the original Eugene Stone design as is practical for you. People here will disagree, but when you start using short barrels, you are also changing the length of the gas tube from what he intended, and that can change things. The only non mil-spec innards I really trust is an accu-wedge. My over-arching principle when I build anything, be it a weapon, car, house, or anything else is "any extra components are also more possible points of failure."

Don't take any of this as gospel, it's simply the opinion of one 26 year old gun enthusiast.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again rp i was kinda thinking the same thing with the weight my friend has a dpms bull 24 special or somthing like that and while it is super accurate like you said i cant shoot it standing because of the weight of the bipod scope and of course that super long heavy barrel.
 

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Why limit yourself to one? Here is my M4gery:


And here is my heavy barreled number:



Different guns for different applications. Just like golfers need different clubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
wow nice guns gunman unfortuantly my budget and my wife wont let me own more than one is that heavy barrel a 16"
 

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I have been looking at Model 1 kits, has anyone had any experience with these parts. Someone said they are DPMS but I haven't been able to confirm this.
 

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I got to agree with RP Cavanaugh. The accuracy you gain with a bull barrel only makes a difference on a bench rest. When using it in the field, the material gain in mass difference means much more in added stability from a variety of shooting stances than the bit of accuracy gained.

Excepting of course when using a recoil dampened .50 Browning variety over a distance of more than a 1000 yards. Then it is an expedition in itself to get into place. After that you wait and rest and hope that something legally shootable comes within range.

When toting a gun and gear over rough terrain, extra weight means a lot of unwanted body movement when having to aim from an uncomfortable position at that specific, much wanted trophy, especially if it is jittery and could take off at any moment.
 

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I bought my lower in pieces as well, started with a stripped lower, and went from there. I did buy a complete upper from the factory, because I did not want to mess with the gas tube, head-spacing, mounting barrel to upper, etc.
 

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Those who got the lower kit did you put it together your self and if so what manual did you use.seems to be alot of parts in one little bag.Quess what i got from the gunshow today? shuussss she might be listening.but yea a DPMS lower kit and a complete 20'' upper.now i got to get the lower together.
 

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Kits are OK........

Kits are just fine if you get a name brand, during the last AWB, I order a DPMS 16" heavy barrel with flash hider (to go on my pre-ban Colt lower), 1 in 8 twist and they made this one with floater tube (special ordered) under the standard plastic front hand guard (so I can used it in competition). They even sold me 2 extra floater tubes to fit my light weight Colts uppers. After the "BAN", I purchase a DPMS lower (M-4) style to make it into a complete DPMS rifle. I use my U.S. Gov. M-16 manuals for building kits as to specs. I have built AR-15 Pistols from stripped lowers too. I have all the armorer's tools and fixture blocks to do a factory Quality job." IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT ARMORER'S TOOLS" ...PLEASE...go to a gunsmith that has them. I use kits from RRA, DPMS, Colt, Stag and Armalite Plus others. Gregg
 

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I built the lower and bought a complete upper. The lower build is super easy, but I was worried about getting the upper done right plus I was only building one so I didn't think the tool investment was worth it.
 

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I did the same as you, bought a stripped lower, and then a rifle kit. Like others, I got mine from Del-Ton, it is a 16" Midlength flat top. I slapped a scope on it from one of my other rifles to see how it shoots, and right now I'm getting about 3 MOA out of it.

 
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