If that guns is all original I wouldn't do a thing to it. However, if you want something special for that special gun I'd pull the grip frame off. Send it to one of many custom grip makers, I'd highly recommend Chigs, have something really special made with exotic walnut wood. That is one handsome older classic you have there Sir.....
Thanks for the kind comments, internals look like new just not sure if it has been refinished or not. As far as grips they have different classifications such as xr3 etc, just not sure what to order for this one. Original grip seems quite small for my hands.
That’s a very nice looking gun to be that old. I’m like you though, the plowhandle is just too small for me. Mine usually end up with a pair of oversized (extended) grips from Texas Grips. The good thing about grips is, you can put and take as much as you want without changing the original configuration of the gun if you want to go back to original
I have to agree with JPGLSG. I wouldn't touch that beauty. The grips look fantastic. Only customs will fit your grip frame that perfectly. Go to the chigs website and look at the grip tracings with measurements. Your grip frame should have letters on it that you will see when you remove the grip panels. Hogue makes large wood grips that will let you hold onto the revolver. I love the look of the original grips, but my large hands need more to hang onto shooting powerful loads. Enjoy your single action!
from the picture it appears your gun has the XR3-RED grip frame by the flair at the bottom front and rear, as noted above it should be marked on the frame itself, under the grip panels,,,nice looking single action
Thanks Bob, in my opiniion, that drawing is still the easiest way to identify what grips a guy needs. But buying a ready made set of grips is still a crap shoot depending on what grip frame the maker uses to fit the grips to. Ruger grip frames are hand finished once they come out of the mold so they will vary. I always used the same grip frames to fit my "off the shelf" grips to so I must have gotten lucky because I never had a pair of grips sent back because of a bad fit.
As said above, the only way to guarantee a good fit is to send your grip frame to a gripmaker. That 3" square drawing is the only thing I needed from a customer to identify his grip frame. I really didn't care what it said on the grip frame. There is really only one other thing I needed to know and that is the width of the grip frame. That's because there are two versions of the XR3 grip frame. The new steel copy of the XR3 introduced in 2005 on the "New Vaquero" had the grip locator pin in a slightly different place than the old XR3 aluninum frame so grip panels would not interchange between the two XR3 grip frames.
That new steel XR3 grip frame was 7/16" in width so it was easy to recognize.
That is really a nice revolver flhr95. I have fairly large hands myself, but I have always just stuck with the original factory grips. I have just gotten used to curling my little finger under the grip frame and it doesn't bother me. I just like the looks of the originals.
Take the wooden grip panels off , cast into the grip frame will be letters XR3 (earlier) or XR3-RED (later) .
The BH in my avatar is circa 1970 and cast into the grip frame is XR3-RED ... no questions when I go to order grips ...I order XR3-RED and they always send the correct ones .
Post photo's of grip frame less the wood grips !
You can worry about those markings on the grip frames if you want. To me, Ruger just put those on there to confuse people. I made and sold Ruger grips for over ten years. I made a heck of a lot of grips in those ten years. I didn't really care about what was marked on those grip frames. I'm the one that made the drawing that Bob Wright posted for you guys. Believe it or not, since 1953, Ruger has used only three major plow handle profiles on their grip frames and they are still using them.
Just draw a three inch square on a piece of paper and place one of your stock Ruger grips in it. The drawing will tell you which grip frame you have by how it fits in the square. Grip frame markings have changed over the years like the XRN3-RED. All that "N" stands for is that it's built for the new model (2 pin) guns. Then there is the "K" that they used to identify stainless steel. But that has nothing to do with the perimeter shape of the grip panels. The shape is still XR3-RED. If you go by that drawing you will order the correct grips for your gun. Believe me or not, I don't care. I just made that drawing to make it easier for people to order the correct grip panels for their gun.
There is only one thing people need to know when using that drawing. Ruger first came out with the aluminum XR3 grip frame in 1953. Then in 2005 they reintroduced that grip frame but they made it out of steel and it was 7/16" in width wheras the original XR3 was 1/2" in width. The perimiter shape of both the old XR3 and the new XR3 grip panels are still the same. But, the grip panels for those two frames will not interchange because on the new steel XR3 frame, they put the grip locator pin in a slightly different place. It's not rocket science, it's actually pretty simple.
I’ve had these two Vaqueros setting out and about in my cave for some time now. I’m starting to wonder just what, was I thinking……They were case harden, the barrels were prepped for bluing, lettering removed and Garza front sights installed. The frames were machined for the installation of the...
Shooting @ range today, 44 Mag Vaquero, 100 rounds, about 20 had light primer strikes, all but 8 fired after several attempts. These were WIN large pistol primers, have used them B4 & no problem, seating depth seemed ok on all rounds, have Wolff spring in the gun for lighter trigger pull, why...
Have a few ruger flat tops in 44special and 1 in 45colt/45acp.
All have 4 5/8's or longer barrels.
I do reload.
Have a wiley clapp carry hawk on the way. Still a 4 5/8s barrel.
Kinda lusting after a 0475 Bisley convertible with a 3.75 barrel. Found one at a steep price. Lipsey said more are on...