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Last weekend I stripped down my blued/wood stocked Mini-30 and Bisley Blackhawk and blasted them with 100 grit Al/OX, then Cerakoted in Sniper Grey. I wanted to prevent rust, reduce the chance of scratches, no more fingerprints, and the Cerakote will prevent parts from wearing as long as the Cerakote is present. Of course the bore and chamber/chambers will have to be attended to after the gun gets wet, there is no way to spray very far down the bore, and even if you could, it would not hold up to powder gases and bullet friction, after all, it is only a paint. A very Hi-Tech paint, but still paint.
The Ruger magazines for the Mini seem to start rust spots pretty easily, so I also did Cerakote on all my 5 and 20 round Mini-30 magazines, like I did a couple years ago for my Mini-14. All parts were done, and applied properly, it goes on so thin it does nor affect tolerances. I did not do the springs,as they are stainless and don't need the corrosion protection, and springs should not be baked during curing anyway. My Mini-14 that I did a while back has had about 700 rounds through it, and contact parts like the sides of the bolt and rails inside the receiver have shown only a slight burnishing of the Cerakote where they rub.
Since it was going to get a re-finish anyway, I removed the warning on the side of the Bisley barrel before blasting. The Bisley had some upgraded sights, a white outline rear and yellow insert in the front, so I baked them at a lower temperature for longer time so as not to damage the polymer insert or outline paint.
It also had a jeweled hammer, and I was not wanting to change that, but now that it is all together, the hammer looks too fancy, and the rest of the revolver looks utilitarian. A bit too utlilitarian. It will be weatherproof in the foul weather, but reminds me of the cheap matte Uberti's that Cabela's sells. I think I will re-blast the hammer,trigger and cylinder and do them in the Burnt Bronze color for some contrast.
I also got another Tech sight in the mail for my stainless Mini-30, and did a better crown on the barrel before threading it to 5/8" x 24 TPI, so I could use the Ruger take off flash hider that Misfire 51 sent me. The Ruger winged sight blade is .080" thick, I thinned mine down to .065" to get a better sight picture. It still needs a Socom Accustrut like my blued M-30, and after putting some GG&G Universal Q.D. sockets on the stock for a side sling set up, the stainless gun will be ready to Cerakote as well. I am thinking of doing the stainless parts a lighter grey Cerakote like Tungsten, and blasting the polymer stock and doing it in the darker Sniper Grey.
I was hoping to get out to the range and take some better pics, but the rain has kept up here the last few days so kitchen table pics will have to do.
Some of the Bisley parts "in the white' after blasting:




Blued Mini-30 now Sniper Grey:



SS Mini-30 after threading and with new flash hider:

 

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Great job, they both look very sharp!
 

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Righteous Dude
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Wow, those look great! Cerakote really looks nice. I really like your coated revolver. It's a great look.

I've considered getting my Mini mags coated... even spray painted. The rusting drives me nuts. Park would be good too.

Nice work, Sandog! :)
 

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Ruger Tinkerer
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Nice job! Love the Cerakote product and enjoy working with it. My only issue on revolvers (and it's minor) is the ablation spots you quickly get on the cylinder at the ends of the chambers. The top strap redirects the ignition heat and gases right back down on that spot and I found in 200 rounds I had little spots of bare metal. In talking to applicators and gunsmiths I was told that's just to be expected.

There's no end to the cool stuff you can do with Cerakote. It really opens up a whole new world of possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
More Cerakote work.

I took my other Mini-30, this one also a 189 series, but a stainless synthetic stock one, and Cerakoted it last week before it got cold out. I blasted the black Ruger synthetic stock and sprayed it in Sniper grey, like my 20 round magazines. And did the metal parts in Tungsten Cerakote



I also Cerakoted my Remington M700 .308, my Rem 870 Tactical, and Rock Island 1911 in .22 TCM (slide only) in a Coyote Tan Cerakote




And here is the Bisley shown above in grey, now with some Burnt Bronze Cerakote for contrast.

 

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When I saw the words Ceracote and Bisley in the thread title I thought, uh oh, somebody put some stupid FDE color on an SA revolver. Glad I was wrong. All the guns in this thread look great.
 

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I had my used P-90 Ceracoted ... lots of positive comments from fellow shooters ...
 

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Last weekend I stripped down my blued/wood stocked Mini-30 and Bisley Blackhawk and blasted them with 100 grit Al/OX, then Cerakoted in Sniper Grey. I wanted to prevent rust, reduce the chance of scratches, no more fingerprints, and the Cerakote will prevent parts from wearing as long as the Cerakote is present. Of course the bore and chamber/chambers will have to be attended to after the gun gets wet, there is no way to spray very far down the bore, and even if you could, it would not hold up to powder gases and bullet friction, after all, it is only a paint. A very Hi-Tech paint, but still paint.
The Ruger magazines for the Mini seem to start rust spots pretty easily, so I also did Cerakote on all my 5 and 20 round Mini-30 magazines, like I did a couple years ago for my Mini-14. All parts were done, and applied properly, it goes on so thin it does nor affect tolerances. I did not do the springs,as they are stainless and don't need the corrosion protection, and springs should not be baked during curing anyway. My Mini-14 that I did a while back has had about 700 rounds through it, and contact parts like the sides of the bolt and rails inside the receiver have shown only a slight burnishing of the Cerakote where they rub.
Since it was going to get a re-finish anyway, I removed the warning on the side of the Bisley barrel before blasting. The Bisley had some upgraded sights, a white outline rear and yellow insert in the front, so I baked them at a lower temperature for longer time so as not to damage the polymer insert or outline paint.
It also had a jeweled hammer, and I was not wanting to change that, but now that it is all together, the hammer looks too fancy, and the rest of the revolver looks utilitarian. A bit too utlilitarian. It will be weatherproof in the foul weather, but reminds me of the cheap matte Uberti's that Cabela's sells. I think I will re-blast the hammer,trigger and cylinder and do them in the Burnt Bronze color for some contrast.
I also got another Tech sight in the mail for my stainless Mini-30, and did a better crown on the barrel before threading it to 5/8" x 24 TPI, so I could use the Ruger take off flash hider that Misfire 51 sent me. The Ruger winged sight blade is .080" thick, I thinned mine down to .065" to get a better sight picture. It still needs a Socom Accustrut like my blued M-30, and after putting some GG&G Universal Q.D. sockets on the stock for a side sling set up, the stainless gun will be ready to Cerakote as well. I am thinking of doing the stainless parts a lighter grey Cerakote like Tungsten, and blasting the polymer stock and doing it in the darker Sniper Grey.
I was hoping to get out to the range and take some better pics, but the rain has kept up here the last few days so kitchen table pics will have to do.
Some of the Bisley parts "in the white' after blasting:




Blued Mini-30 now Sniper Grey:



SS Mini-30 after threading and with new flash hider:

very nice ...
 

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Ruger Connesewer ;)
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Great pictures and a great job!! Easily, in my opinion, best post for this week!! But, no one has wanted to talk about the absence or presence of a turn ring on the Bisley cylinder ... ;)
 

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Ruger Tinkerer
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Great pictures and a great job!! Easily, in my opinion, best post for this week!! But, no one has wanted to talk about the absence or presence of a turn ring on the Bisley cylinder ... ;)
In my experience with Cerakoted revolvers the finish is much more durable when it comes to the turn ring. My GP100 with a Cerakoted cylinder still has no visible turn ring after hundreds of rounds (probably close to 500 now.) Where the finish fails is at the cylinder end above each chamber where hot gasses escape the B/C gap, reflect off the underside of the top strap and ablate the finish. This is a common occurence and unavoidable I have been told by professional applicators. You can design around it and deal with it that way or stick with black and never clean off the powder residue...
 

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Impressive!

The jeweled hammer sides gives the perfect contrast to the flat black.

The Mini looks great also.

BRAVO
 
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