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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stock finish - Minwax Wipe on Poly -

relatively fast drying, about 24 hours for the first coat, takes 4-5 coats to finish dense closed pore woods like maple and laminates (those plywood stocks), about 6-10 coats for open grain woods like claro walnut. Sand with 400 grit between each coat - after first coat successive coats dry in about 2-4 hours and can be sanded. Extremely durable and does not turn yellow (much) with age. 16 oz. can for about $12.

Rifle barrel carbon removal - synthetic 0W-20 motor oil applied with nylon brush. Use this stuff after a 1 hour soak with Gunslick foaming bore cleaner. The oil goes for about $7 per quart.

I don't buy a 2-4 oz bottles of stuff for $8 - $18 any more, possibly the guys who sell the expensive stuff pay less than I do for motor oil and finish buying it in 1-5 gallon lots then having a huge mark up.

I am extremely fussy about my rifle barrels that I keep real clean inside and have nice wood stocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I can't find Ed's Red in my local Home Depot or Walmart - and it appears to be some vile mixture of Dextron tranny fluid and acetone.

The easily available synthetic motor oil applied with a nylon brush after a soak with the water soluble odorless Gunslick foam works very well.

In an effort to maintain peace and harmony inside the house, stuff that smells bad is banned. Dextron works good as chain saw bar oil.

Some time ago the big gun supply store and publisher of the Shooter's Bible, Stoger pushed some gun oil that could be used as an anti-septic. I wonder if that oil could be used to fry perch filets? Am I confused with the Ed's Red BBQ sauce?
 

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+1 on Minwax Poly

As for eds red....a mess of stuff ya gotta mix up and melt lanolin in. Lots of extra work and it don't even remove copper fouling well. But, simple household lemon ammonia will do that plenty cheaply and no mixing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
At one time I used some super strong ammonia intended for printing equipment - it sure worked but it stunk real bad and I was fearful of barrel corrosion.

Attached is a photo or Mrs. Bassman's .243 that is used to shoot steel targets. The stock is fiddle back maple and being very tight grained with small pores it finished with 5 coats of Minwax wipe on poly. The Minwax stuff resists turning yellow. Back before my time they used nitric acid, iron filings and heat to make fiddle back maple red. Tastes, at least mine change with time.

The 1-8 Lilja barrel cleans up real well with Gunslick foam and 0W-20. But the 0W-20 is sort of messy and not kind to wood and finishes - so clean up every thing including chamber and inside action. Especially, keep the 0W-20 away from trigger workings.

I need to clean up that slot on the base windage screw.
 

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I know this is old but still quite helpful.

1. Earplugs- Can be used to plug barrels, cylinders, chambers for paint or even rust bluing.
2. Engine/Caliper/apliance epoxy and such paints- Work wonders as gun finished for firearms that have been blasted and prepped, especially parkerized guns.

3. Synthetic motor oil- No more spending on sub-par or re-packaged gun products. The motor oils don't have to be synthetic but these work the best. If someone know of how to make these motor oils thicker, please reply.

4. Mineral Oil- Works very well as a lubricant and somewhat protectant of blued guns that is not harmful or strong smelling. Is all natural as well so it can be used to mix with other organic, plant based products like Froglube. If you have a half-full container of Froglube just fill the rest with this and mix.

5. Home made dummy-snap caps- Grab some brass for whatever gun you would like some snap caps for and punch out the primers. Next, take a hot glue gun and fill the brass with the hot glue (for weight you can add some kind of material, mix the glue later). Make sure to fill the primer space flush with the rim. Ta-da! Works best with revolvers.

6. Gun CLEANERS- Purple Power, Simple Green or any industrial strength DEGREASER and water will remove most if not all oils, grease, carbon, rust etc. Biodegradable ones are best (Mother earth will thank you). DO NOT BE AFRAID TO USE WATER FOR GUN CLEANING. The next cheap item on my list will help with those scared of using water

7. WD40- NOW HOLD ON! Don't go tell me that this stuff is crap or that it is all you use for guns. WD40 IS A WATER DISPERSING AGENT. If your gun gets wet or you are really anal of having no water on your gun , you could use some of this and remove all possibility of rust.
Especially good for a gun that took a dip in salt water.
 

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8. Surface rust remover- For those with blued guns that often suffer from surface rust, don't fret. Have in hand some #0000 steel wool and some oil (like the kind I suggested). Wet the surface and using a bit of steel wool, gently sweep it back and forward. Grab a paper towel or rag (Non-marring) and rust be gone.

9. Revolver speed loaders- Those of you that use revolvers as defensive/offensive or CCW tools already know this but for the laymen of the revolver the HKS revolver speedloaders are essential tools, especially if (For some reason) you carry a 5 round snub as your primary. These are cheap, you should not pay more than 15$ for one (best price I get is 10.08$).

10. 400+ grit sand paper- For all of you who are interested in doing trigger jobs and don't want to buy/use power tools. 400 and up grit sand paper (silicone carbide ONLY) used on bearing surfaces will greatly decrease for friction and therefore improve trigger pull. Keep moving higher and higher in grits. Don't worry about shaping parts, the 400 and greater grits can't shape metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The engine/caliper/appliance epoxy is of interest but I don't need a red or white rifle barrel.

I have mixed feelings about WD40. I have seen it mess up loaded rounds in M16 magazines but like its water dispersing abilities especially when used on shot guns when shooting ducks over salt water.
 

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I have been making "Ed's Red" gun cleaner-solvent for over 5 years and use it on my rifles and handguns. Mixture is comprised of equal parts of kerosene, odorless mineral spirits, and dextron 111 transmission fluid. The original formula did call for acetone, but that is really not needed for good cleaning of the barrel. It is similar to what the old Springfield Armory used to clean military firearms and whale sperm oil was used in place of the dextron automatic transmission fluid. You can make almost 3 gallons of the cleaner solvent for about 25-30 dollars by buying the 1 gallon of kerosene and 1 gallon of mineral spirits from the local hardware store and the 4 quarts transmission fluid from the auto parts store. I mix up a gallon at a time and it lasts for a year and I shoot and clean a lot of guns in that years time.
I put it in a spray bottle and spray the parts and watch the black gunk pour off the gun parts and use a compressor air hose to blow the excess off and wipe down if needed. It will leave a fine film of lubricant on the parts that also protects from rust.
 
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