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Well, whatta' want to know about it? Not to be a smart a** or rude, but I clean & lube the P95 just like any other of my pistols. You can do a search for gun cleaning & find a little bit of information. Good Luck & Happy Shooting!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
quote:Originally posted by kansas45

Well, whatta' want to know about it? Not to be a smart a** or rude, but I clean & lube the P95 just like any other of my pistols.

Uh. Yeah. But I'm a newbie to guns so that doesn't answer my question. And really. I did search the great vast 'Net, but everyone has their take on what to use, etc. For example. What do you[/b ]for cleaning bore, etc? Hoppe's? Break Free? Tetra Gun? Where to remember to add lube?[?]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
quote:Originally posted by RNettles

I am using Outter's Nitro Solvent on the barrel, and Break Free CLP on the rest of the frame and slide... and a couple of drops of Rem Oil on the slide guides and channels, just to keep the slide running smooth... So far so good...
Thanks. On the barrel, a friend recommended Hoppe's Barrel Scrubber and Break Free on the rest. Hoppe's oil on the slide guide and channels.

Is Hoppe's comparable to Outers?



quote:Look here for a PDF that covers Semi-Auto Cleaning tips...
Now. That's what I am talking about! :D
 

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I've used both solvents at one time or another, I think gun solvents are about the same. Wet a patch and run it down your barrel a coupla times then run clean patches down the barrel till they come out fairly clean. Wet a patch with any of the variety of gun oils and run it down the barrel and then a clean patch a coupla times. Its very important to keep the slide guides and channels clean and lightly oiled or it might start failing to extract or feed, especially in cold weather. Keep a very light coat of oil or something else they might recommend in the gun shop to protect the finish of the gun. Every now and then I clean my internal parts with aerosol cleaner and then spray some aerosol protectant in their and blow dry after each application. Don't need to brush you barrel after each use. you'll get the hang of it.
 

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Cleaning guns is a little like personal hygiene. Everyone has their own preferences and their own way of going about it. There are hosts of fine cleaning products out there to choose from, and all you can do is buy some things that have good reputations and are endorsed by shooters like you find here. You did good to come here to ask.

The very first thing is to make yourself totally familiar with your piece. Practice fieldstripping it and putting it back together. Learn as much about your weapon as you can. Check out every nook and cranny and know how it all works and how it all goes together.

The gunks, solvents, oils, and lubricants you have access to at the gun store are almost unlimited, and most of them are adequate, but the basics you have to use that remain constant are bore brushes, cleaning rods, patches, oily rags, and brushes. I keep all that stuff assembled and in a big ol tool bag that doubles as a range bag. Cleaning jags and bore snakes work, but they kinda go into the personal preference column.

Scrub the bore, but easy with the bore brushes. Scrub from the breach end whenever possible. After the solvent has done its job, go to dry patches and then to lightly oiled patches and then to dry patches until they come out clean. I then take an old toothbrush soaked in Rem Oil because it is a cleaner and lubricant all in one, and I scrub in all the nooks and creases with it as well as all the flat areas. You’re going to know where all the little nooks are because you’ve familiarized yourself with your piece.

I then take a pastry brush I bought for this purpose, and wipe over everything; every nook and crease, and every square centimeter of blued steel. This soaks up all the little oil puddles and excesses left by the toothbrush and redistributes it evenly all over every steel part. After it’s reassembled, take an oily rag and wipe everyplace you touched it with your bare skin. You might also take your oily rag and put it around your finger and make tiny circles with it on the flat surfaces just like you were spit-shining it.


I also like to Flitz my bores after they are clean. Flitz is a non-abrasive polisher/cleaner/protestant that makes your bore really shine! I like shiny bores!


I also clean my weapons every time I shoot them, or any other time I feel like fondling them. I enjoy just taking them out and running my pastry brush over them just to see the blued steel shine.

I’m a former Sea Going Marine, and I know these techniques work, because they worked with weapons constantly exposed to salty air.
 

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I've used the Hoppes #9, but switched to Outters because it comes in a spray can, a lot less mess. I have long guns to clean also, so the spray with the extension tube works good for me...

+1 on easy with the bore brushes...
 

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Spray cans make it a lot easier and quicker. They make a lot of gadgets now that make it easier like the tipton gun vise I got a coupla years ago. I have 3 pistols and 3 wheel guns and Bunzo is right about getting to know your guns by field stripping etc. My autos are berretta, browning and sig and they are all different
 

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Yes... Don't use the Birchwood Casey Scrubber on the polymer frame... It bleaches the plastic white... Use CLP on the frame...
 

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That's worth a topic in itself-I'd never heard that either---sound the alarm!!! Nobody wants albino P-frames...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
quote:Originally posted by RNettles

Yes... Don't use the Birchwood Casey Scrubber on the polymer frame... It bleaches the plastic white... Use CLP on the frame...
Dang! I was about to bust out the



on my whole Ruger P95! [:0]

OK.....Break Free CLP it is.
 

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If you have a brass bore brush use it sparingly, and make sure the brass bore brush is the EXACT caliber of your pistol.
Bore Brushes used improperly, or the wrong size can harm your pistol.

Also, for safety's sake, be sure you clear your pistol before you start cleaning it. I had a uncle kill himself from not checking his rifle twice before starting to clean it.
 

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Birchwood Casey does make a 'Polymer Safe' gun scrubber now. It comes in a white can and seems to work good. I've used it on my KP95 and KP97 with no discoloration. They still make both kinds, so watch what you buy if you want to use on plastic frames.
Tom
 

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quote:Originally posted by rman

Birchwood Casey does make a 'Polymer Safe' gun scrubber now. It comes in a white can and seems to work good. I've used it on my KP95 and KP97 with no discoloration. They still make both kinds, so watch what you buy if you want to use on plastic frames.
Tom
I heard on the "other" forum that it bleaches as well... hear say... but to be safe, I use BreakFree CLP... and it works for me.
 

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I field strip my gun and for all the nooks and cranys I use unchlorinated brake cleaner to spray down in it. Do not use chlorene on plastic as it will soften it and cause damage. Lube it good and your good to go. The post above have covered the barrel. If you have a air compressor you can blow a lot of crud out of you pistol.
 

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I normally don't use a cleaner on plastic and wood. I just wipe them off with a oily rag.
 

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Anybody ever tried this?


quote:CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)


Gum Spirits of Turpentine were originally used instead of Mineral Spirits and Sperm Whale Oil was used instead of Dexron.
I've heard a few guys swear by it.
 

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quote:Originally posted by RNettles

quote:Originally posted by rman

Birchwood Casey does make a 'Polymer Safe' gun scrubber now. It comes in a white can and seems to work good. I've used it on my KP95 and KP97 with no discoloration. They still make both kinds, so watch what you buy if you want to use on plastic frames.
Tom
I heard on the "other" forum that it bleaches as well... hear say... but to be safe, I use BreakFree CLP... and it works for me.
I wouldn't want to contradict the "experts on the other forum." Please withdraw my endorsement. (Maybe I have hidden damage.)
 
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