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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen a few refinished revolvers on this forum and all of them have me baffled as to how they do so.

I am planning to abrasive blast a S&W Model 19-3, P&R and most probably paint it with some type of Engine enamel. I have tested such paints and they are impervious to the kind of cleaning solvents but do to poor surface prep (lack of material blasting) its abrasion was not at fully developed.

Getting to the point; how have you guys coated parts such as the cylinder? Do you also blast and coat the extractor and chambers?
 

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I coat all parts like the extractors and bolt cuts in the cylinder, but Cerakote goes on really thin, half a thousandth of an inch. Engine enamel would be thick enough to interfere with tolerances, also would not stay long where moving parts are rubbing.
I plug the chambers on a cylinder with rubber plugs before spraying, also plug the ends of the barrel. There's no way to spray evenly inside the cylinder or barrel, and the friction and hot gasses in the barrel and end of cylinder would make short work of the paint anyway.
 

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I would have it cerakoted if you want it done right. Or send it to Fords Guns in Florida and have it reblued correctly. Imo putting engine paint on a S&W will destroy any value left in the gun..unless the gun is already a beater. Reblueing and cerakote will also reduce the value but not as much a a rattle can paint job....if that matters to you
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would have it cerakoted if you want it done right. Or send it to Fords Guns in Florida and have it reblued correctly. Imo putting engine paint on a S&W will destroy any value left in the gun..unless the gun is already a beater. Reblueing and cerakote will also reduce the value but not as much a a rattle can paint job....if that matters to you
I would but PR has no smiths. Sending a firearm is fine if sent by FedEx but once the gun comes back to an FFL, I'm looking at a 100$ transfer fee. The gun is actually not a beeter, I just practice like crazy and bluing just rubs off. When I was 13 I loved blues guns but at the ripe old age of...21 I can't stand how easy it rusts and rubs off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I coat all parts like the extractors and bolt cuts in the cylinder, but Cerakote goes on really thin, half a thousandth of an inch. Engine enamel would be thick enough to interfere with tolerances, also would not stay long where moving parts are rubbing.
I plug the chambers on a cylinder with rubber plugs before spraying, also plug the ends of the barrel. There's no way to spray evenly inside the cylinder or barrel, and the friction and hot gasses in the barrel and end of cylinder would make short work of the paint anyway.
Thanks for the info. I will probably just rust blue the extractor so as not to screw with the ratchets (is that what they are called?) so as not to mess up the timing.
 

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If you want a nice durable finish that wont rub off like blue, and is stronger than paint, that you can do at home, consider parkerizing. Its the flat green finish on most military firearms, you will need to completely disassemble the gun tho. I wont go into all the specifics here, because you may not be interested. But if you are, I'll add this. The last and most important step is to boil all your parts in the dirtiest motor oil you can find, The hot steel opens it's pores and the oil seeps in and stays there with the parkerized coating, very strong and rust proof. I have done two complete motorcycles and several firearms with this method, 20 years later still holding up to wet michigan weather. At the same time I did a bottle opener and let it sit on my back porch for 5 years exposed to the elements..... didnt change a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you want a nice durable finish that wont rub off like blue, and is stronger than paint, that you can do at home, consider parkerizing. Its the flat green finish on most military firearms, you will need to completely disassemble the gun tho. I wont go into all the specifics here, because you may not be interested. But if you are, I'll add this. The last and most important step is to boil all your parts in the dirtiest motor oil you can find, The hot steel opens it's pores and the oil seeps in and stays there with the parkerized coating, very strong and rust proof. I have done two complete motorcycles and several firearms with this method, 20 years later still holding up to wet michigan weather. At the same time I did a bottle opener and let it sit on my back porch for 5 years exposed to the elements..... didnt change a bit.
That was actually was one of the finishing methods I was looking at doing, next to rust bluing. However im 21 and living with my family so that one went out the window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Don't worry guys, this is only a temporary finish until I move to the states. Once free from the pseudo-socialism of this island, I will have the gun refinished in electro less nickel.
 
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