Probably the best course of action would be to not take any chances and sell it to me right now. You’ll lose a big chunk of what you paid for it but you’ll sleep better knowing that you did the right thing
Convertible Six quandary
Just curious to see what some thoughts on my problem are.
Purchased a nice (98%) 1978 Stainless Convertible Six with 6 1/2" barrel from Cabela's and after getting it home and cleaning it (they never due!) found the magnum cylinder serial # doesn't match the frame. Cabela's said that was the only stainless they had and couldn't explain why the difference.
Put the cylinder in and checked cylinder to barrel clearance at .0015" and it shoots great. My problem is, I've polished the action and have a nice, crisp 2 pound trigger pull so---do I just keep it and shoot it or do I send it back to Ruger for a replacement matching cylinder in case I ever want to sell it and take a chance of them replacing my nicely polished parts with stock parts?
What would you do???? 😏
Purchased a nice (98%) 1978 Stainless Convertible Six with 6 1/2" barrel from Cabela's and after getting it home and cleaning it (they never due!) found the magnum cylinder serial # doesn't match the frame. Cabela's said that was the only stainless they had and couldn't explain why the difference.
Put the cylinder in and checked cylinder to barrel clearance at .0015" and it shoots great. My problem is, I've polished the action and have a nice, crisp 2 pound trigger pull so---do I just keep it and shoot it or do I send it back to Ruger for a replacement matching cylinder in case I ever want to sell it and take a chance of them replacing my nicely polished parts with stock parts?
What would you do???? 😏
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
As long as it functions properly, and it sounds like it does, keep it and shoot it.
That’s a gun I wouldn’t sell. My heirs might sell it, I wouldn’t.
If it functions fine, don't sweat it. When they are manufactured that is just a confirmation that the cylinder fit has been checked at the factory. I highly doubt the the factory does any actual fitting other than just to confirm that it functions ok.
At todays prices I don't think I'd lose a lot - only paid $390 for it! 😁Probably the best course of action would be to not take any chances and sell it to me right now. You’ll lose a big chunk of what you paid for it but you’ll sleep better knowing that you did the right thing
Good deal! I say shoot it and enjoy.
Depends on you. Are you a collector or a shooter?Just curious to see what some thoughts on my problem are.
What would you do???? 😏
A gun is seldom both. If you want to collect too bad. the number will never be the same and it has already been shot and modified. It can be a nice gun but never top shelf collector stuff.
If it is a shooter, it is a non-issue. Shoot it, modify it, have fun. Selling it as a shooter later on should never be a problem. Cylinders get mixed and matched all the time.
Sure, you could send it in for a new cyl. but I don't see any free lunch there either. I can see it costing a couple of hundred when all said and done. Depends on what it is worth, to you.
A gun that old they are not going to supply a free cylinder or even shipping just because somebody in the past 45 years switched a cylinder. That is not their liability.
I think you got it cheap enough to enjoy it for many years and never look back.
That is what I would do.
Definitely a shooter at my age, not a collector. Started thinning the safe about 5 years ago and it's down to the point of "if it ain't being used it finds a new home".Depends on you. Are you a collector or a shooter?
A gun is seldom both. If you want to collect too bad. the number will never be the same and it has already been shot and modified. It can be a nice gun but never top shelf collector stuff.
If it is a shooter, it is a non-issue. Shoot it, modify it, have fun. Selling it as a shooter later on should never be a problem. Cylinders get mixed and matched all the time.
Sure, you could send it in for a new cyl. but I don't see any free lunch there either. I can see it costing a couple of hundred when all said and done. Depends on what it is worth, to you.
A gun that old they are not going to supply a free cylinder or even shipping just because somebody in the past 45 years switched a cylinder. That is not their liability.
I think you got it cheap enough to enjoy it for many years and never look back.
That is what I would do.
Thanks for the comeback.
Shoot it. Enjoy it. Done.
If reglular checks for lead spitting and forcing cone erosion (lopsided) dont reveal any objective issues, shoot the snot out of it. Also check for cylinder gap consistency.
All of these checks are a little overkill, but if the cylinder came from a bang-around box o parts, you never know.
All of these checks are a little overkill, but if the cylinder came from a bang-around box o parts, you never know.
Sometimes you get lucky and a cylinder drops right in with correct clearances. Sometimes they require fitting. I found a cylinder in 45Auto (actually it found me) that did drop right in to an old model 45Colt Vaquero. The gentleman who sent me his cylinder was a member here and a gunsmith, who sent me detailed instructions on how to fit it.
Is mine a real Ruger convertible? To me it is and I won’t ever sell it anyway. It is priceless.
Is mine a real Ruger convertible? To me it is and I won’t ever sell it anyway. It is priceless.
I have two Single Sixes, only one has a matching number cylinder in .22 WRM. It makes no difference if it shoots well.
No lead spitting and forcing cone has no erosion - cylinder gap is .0015" + .0005" cocked. Not sure if that's within spec or not but it's the same with the 22LR cylinder and it shoots great. Doubt the gun has many rounds through it at all.If reglular checks for lead spitting and forcing cone erosion (lopsided) dont reveal any objective issues, shoot the snot out of it. Also check for cylinder gap consistency.
All of these checks are a little overkill, but if the cylinder came from a bang-around box o parts, you never know.
Thanks for the advice. 😉
Keep what you have ... it shoots great beats everything .Just curious to see what some thoughts on my problem are.
Purchased a nice (98%) 1978 Stainless Convertible Six with 6 1/2" barrel from Cabela's and after getting it home and cleaning it (they never due!) found the magnum cylinder serial # doesn't match the frame. Cabela's said that was the only stainless they had and couldn't explain why the difference.
Put the cylinder in and checked cylinder to barrel clearance at .0015" and it shoots great. My problem is, I've polished the action and have a nice, crisp 2 pound trigger pull so---do I just keep it and shoot it or do I send it back to Ruger for a replacement matching cylinder in case I ever want to sell it and take a chance of them replacing my nicely polished parts with stock parts?
What would you do???? 😏
The guns serial # is on the frame and the 22LR cylinder is numbered to it but that is simply for mfg. purposes . By Law , The 22 Magnum cylinder doesn't have to be numbered to the frame ... the number is for manufactoring purposes only . If it shoot fine ... keep it as is and don't worry about the number. I don't think Ruger will replace your cylinder or renumber it to the frame ... it's simply not needed .
Gary
Thanks to all for the sage advice. Love the gun and won't part with it at this time. Glad to know that so many folks reassured me that the mismatched cylinder won't detract from it's value and a correctly numbered one wouldn't add to its value significantly either.
Bob
Bob
if the gap is truly .0005 to .0015, that is borderline TOO tight. I think that .004 to .006 is considered "normal".
You can do a search online with the serial number, and find out if it was created as a convertible, or as a regular Single... but if the cylinder fits, and lines up, I'd just shoot it.
You can do a search online with the serial number, and find out if it was created as a convertible, or as a regular Single... but if the cylinder fits, and lines up, I'd just shoot it.
I think you misread my numbers. The gap is .0015 to .002 (.0015 PLUS .0005) and is the same on the cylinder that's serial numbered to the gun. The only problem I would see if it was any closer would be the cylinder binding from carbon build up after lots of rounds and not cleaning. Fortunately I'm obsessive about a clean weapon. 😂if the gap is truly .0005 to .0015, that is borderline TOO tight. I think that .004 to .006 is considered "normal".
You can do a search online with the serial number, and find out if it was created as a convertible, or as a regular Single... but if the cylinder fits, and lines up, I'd just shoot it.
Yes.... not the first time I've done that....I think you misread my numbers.
I got the .0015 part right, just didn't notice the +
That's still a pretty tight gap.... ought to shoot really well.
Mine was .015 or so. It went back to Ruger, and they re-barreled it for me.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
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