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Mini-14 #195 with an unknown history prior to my ownership 3 years ago. After my last trip to the range when breaking down to clean my rear s/s buffer bushing fell out in 2 pieces. How common is this? I have fired at least 800 rounds (commercial) Cannot find much... Got replacement part from Brownells.
Will a recoil buffer decrease the likelihood of this happening again. Just added Accu-Strut... Thanks from Sitka,AK
 

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From what I have been reading, the buffer will help with this along with a smaller sized gas block bushing.
 

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That's some serious metal to metal slamming to crack one of those in half. Like binrat said, go with a reduced gas port bushing. Try a .045". And a Wilson 1911 buffer at the front of the op-rod, around the gas pipe, and one around the recoil spring against the receiver.
No more metal to metal contact, brass won't be flung 40-50 feet ( and be dinged up), easier on optics, quicker to get back on target, and some accuracy improvement.
And you'll still have 100 % reliability.
Smaller gas port bushing ( homemade), and location of Wilson 1911 buffers:


 

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If you do not wish to spend the 20 bucks for a smaller dia. hole gas bushing, you probably will be able to get by with just installing the two neopreme buffers as shown above. After installation be sure to check the two buffers for excessive wear about every 500 rounds and replace if needed.
I installed the smaller dia gas bushing and also both buffers on my mini 30 and do not have to worry about excessive wear & tear on the rifle. Those buffers shown above are ones used on 1911 pistols and will fit your mini 14 and mini 30.
 

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I installed the M1911 bushings on my Mini-14. It should prevent what happened with yours. Who knows for sure, I don't think it's a very common thing. After several hundred rounds, the bushings still look new after I clean the carbon off.
 

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Check out the Accuracy Systems website ( Ruger Mini Remington AR10 AR15 Accuracy Custom Accurate Rifles Barrel ) scroll down to the buffers and they have a picture of the same thing. The neopream buffers prevent the battering that the steel factory buffer takes. They also show the extra power op rod spring , I would suggest NOT using one as they just increase the battering of the bushing.
 

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I've thought of doing the buffer pads. Midway sells them but I read the reviews and people said they have had issues with the bolt going all the way back into the bolt hold open on its own with the buffer installed. Rather than replace the gas jet, a cheaper solution may be to use this hand guard.

Choate Ventilated Handguard Ruger Mini-14 Mini-30 Synthetic Black

It will sure be a lot easier to install than a gas block that's for sure. What this hand guard does it allows more gas to ventilate each stroke out of the handguard reducing felt recoil and wear to the op rod, plus it keeps the rifle cooler longer. I tested it on my 197 series Mini at the range a week or so ago and it really did help felt recoil and keep the rifle cooler.
 

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I don't think the handguard would have any effect on how hard the gun cycles. A single rear 1911 buffer may be all you need.
 

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In the case of the Ruger Mini it does because more gas is escaping up through the additional vents in the hand guard than stock. When you fire a Ruger Mini the gas port pushes against the fixed piston on the charging handle, excess gas goes up and through the hand guard ventilation around the barrel. By increasing the ventilation in the hand guard there by decreasing the amount of gas pushing against the fixed piston on the charging handle since more gas is escaping through the hand guard.
 

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A while ago I put the 1911 bushings om my 582 series. I put the rear one on first and it did quiet the gun down noticeably. However, when I put the front one in around the piston the gun would not cycle. I thought it might have been too thick so I got a thinner one like the blue ones shown. Still would not cycle. took the front bushing out, worked fine. Took the back bushing out and front in, did not cycle.(kind of expected that). result is if I put any front bushing in it does not cycle. btw, I was running an .050 ASI gas bushing at the time.
I just left it out for now, any ideas?
 

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I am not seeing how the handguard would affect the cycling, there is not that much gas being vented out that it would not disperse inside the handguard. If it was like a big blast you felt coming out of the vent holes, maybe.
I have always thinned down my Wilson buffers to half thickness, maybe not necessary, but I figured I am getting some cushioning effect, while lessening the chance of a short stroke or other malfunction due to the buffers. Plus I get twice as many by halving them!
That buffer material is tough, I tried holding them with vise grips and using a new utility knife blade. It was barely cutting into it, and not very even. I ended up using one of these little saw blades for a Dremel, much easier to slice them even.
 

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The M1a and the Garand rifles gas systems blow the op rod back like the Mini, and they dont have vented hand guards, sorry not buyin it.
 

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I understand but just saying compared to the stock one it seemed like less. I may still try buffers someday but I am aware that it can cause cycling issues.
 
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