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Driver's Choice All-Purpose Lubricant

8K views 37 replies 24 participants last post by  Rangerdeepv 
#1 ·
Have anyone here ever used "Driver's Choice All Purpose Lubricant" on your guns to clean? It say it eliminates squeaks,protects all metal,loosens rust parts,& releases sticky mechanisms.:confused:
 
#3 ·
No, and I don't use gun oil in my car's crankcase. Why is there such an obsession to use automotive products on guns when there are exceptionally good gun products?
 
#7 ·
Iowegan, I agree 100%. I have way too much money wrapped up in guns and all the accessories, ammo, reloading, etc. to take chances with anything that is not designed for specific use in firearms. The cost of specifically designed lubes, grease, oil, cleaning solutions is small compared to the cost of a new firearm or a preventable gunsmith bill.

However, I have to ask, ifithityou, why do you ask? Is this something that you use on a regular basis and already have large quantities of? What is the basis for your question, reasoning for looking to use this product on your firearms?
 
#9 ·
... it eliminates squeaks,protects all metal,loosens rust parts,& releases sticky mechanisms.:confused:
Sounds like the hype on a can of WD-40. There is really very little that is 'new' in the field of lubricants, at least that I'm aware of. It seems unlikely that any one product is going to suddenly render everything that preceded it obsolete. That's not to say that some products don't perform well in areas where they were not originally intended. ATF and acetone mixed 50-50 makes an excellent penetrating oil, as an example. So does Kroil, however, and you don't have to worry about the acetone evaporating.

At one time, I actually believed some of the hype that was attached to new lubricants. Not so much any more. I tend to find a good product and then stick with it. Buy it when it's on sale, and use it according to the manufacturer's directions.
 
#12 ·
I'm not going to wade into this debate except to wonder how much lube and other supplies we all use? I bought my first Hoppe's #9 solvent and oil in 1985, when I got my first firearm, a Mossberg New Haven I still use. So cost has never been a factor in my choices.

The plastic squeeze bottle of gun oil that came in my 1985 cleaning kit ran out about 5 years back. I still have the solvent in its glass bottle. Might be collectible by now :)

I would guess that I go through no more than a few ounces of all products in a year. I shoot at least monthly, usually twice, and hunt in the Fall and Winter. I clean my guns after every time shooting, even if it's a single shot.

In my cars and tractors I'm an Amsoil guy, a dealer in fact. It's primo priced but worth it. If I used it in my guns, I'd probably spend more!
 
#13 ·
Each to his own. I'm not a novice when it comes to hand guns, and money is not a deciding factor.;) But honestly, I've used Mobil 1 synthetic for years, in lieu of grease, on semi-auto sliding components; and Rem-Oil or Eezox for everything else.:)
 
#14 ·
I use GM oil in my Chevy, Honda oil in my Honda car, Harley Davidson oil in my Harley. I do not use any of those on my guns. Gun cleaning is done with Kroil and Hoppes #9, lube is with CLP. All of this has worked very well for me for many years. Cannot justify spending hundreds/thousands of dollars on firearms or vehicles and then "cheaping" out on oil trying to save a few pennies.
 
#15 ·
I use extra virgin olive oil when cleaning and lubing my guns.

I mix it with a bit of white vinegar, a pinch of salt and a shake of pepper. Put it on a fresh salad and have a snack while I wait for the Hoppe's to soak into the barrels and internal mechanisms of the guns.

Works for me. :D
 
#21 ·
Tri Flow Spray
A little goes a long way. Been using that for years over WD-40 (WD is good for "some" things). Just need to be careful using it around some rubber products and some plastics.
 
#22 ·
No, I use Ed's Red. I make it by the gallon, adding the optional Lanolin and deleting the Acetone from the mix, as acetone will remove paint. It cleans, lubricates and protects. But I don't user it typically for cleaning my firearms. I clean my handguns in a Ultrasonic cleaner then dip in Ed' Red, drip dry, wipe down and I am good to go of they can live in the safe untouched for years, as every part is coated.

I do use Ed's to clean & protect machine tools, hand tools, etc. using it in pressure assisted hand sprayer.

Why spend $$ an ounce when you can have a gallon that does the same thing, if not better?
 
#24 ·
I clean a lot of guns per year …. my own collection and many for friends. About every 3 years, I have to buy a new supply of Hoppe's #9 gun oil (2.25 oz bottle) and Hoppe's #9 solvent (1 pint bottle). This cost me less than $15 last time ….. about 5 bucks a year. I figure if I can't afford products made especially for guns, I'll quit shooting, sell my gun collection, and take up a new hobby.
 
#30 ·
Streetwalker, So is a buck a year too much to handle? If you use gun oil properly and don't spill it, a 2 1/4 oz bottle should last the average shooter several years. Here's some Gun Oil education: First, gun oil is not normal petroleum based, it is way more refined. Gun oil does not contain anything that can contaminate your gun yet it provides good lubrication qualities and it clings to parts exceptionally well for rust protection. All you need is a very small drop on a part then use a cloth patch to spread it until the part feels dry.

Many people think you have to glop oil on until the parts are dripping wet …. like dealing with farm implements. This is exactly what most people do when they use automotive products because it is so cheap …. their concept being "if a little is good, a lot is better". Little do they know …. in a few weeks, the carrier in petroleum based oil will start to evaporate, leaving a gummy mess that instead of reducing friction, it actually increases friction because it tends "clot", almost like blood. The additives in engine oil will cause parts to develop small pits and will eventually eat the bluing off. Here's a very basic question …. if a metal part has pits from using engine oil, do you think that part will increase or decrease friction? So why in the world would someone want to increase friction and potentially damage their expensive guns?

I've mentioned this before but for your sake, I'll mention it again. When I had my shop, a very high percent of the guns that came in for repair were "excess oil related", meaning the owner had glopped oil on parts then when the carrier evaporated, springs no longer can overcome the friction needed to make a part move. Guns don't work well when parts can't move. Further, powder residue will blow back in the bowls of the gun and mix with oil. This creates a very abrasive sludge that resembles rubbing compound, which will wear parts much faster than when no oil at all is used. What many people don't realize is …. automotive oils are made to operate with high temperatures and very high friction …. on the order of tons, not like ounces in a gun, in fact there's no mating parts in a gun that exceeds 25 lbs and most parts have less than a pound of tension. Also, oil in an engine is pumped through the system and filtered. This doesn't happen with gun oil … it is supposed to cling to parts and not attract powder residue so the gun will stay operational.

So I'll ask again ….. is a buck a year too much to pay for proper lubrication and rust prevention in your gun worth hundreds of dollars? I consider it cheap insurance!
 
#31 ·
I shoot 3-4 times a week. About 10 months of the year here in Texas I'm dripping with sweat. I shoot 500-1000 rounds a week through several firearms. I sweat so bad that I have to grease under the grip panels of my 1911 pistols to prevent rust.

I go though a LOT of lube on my firearms.

You claim that gun oil isn't petroleum based, that might be true with Frog Lube, aka coconut oil, or FireClean, aka, rapeseed oil. But many traditional lubes are still petroleum based.

My guns don't get a chance to have the oil dry out. I've got a couple of 1911 pistols that need to be run wet. If they aren't then you're going to have problems.

You go ahead and use your oil and I'll use mine.

BTW, neither oil nor grease "attract" dirt.
 
#32 ·
Streetwalker, People like you are the reason my gunsmith shop was so successful. I do agree: "You go ahead and use your oil and I'll use mine."
 
#35 ·
BTW, neither oil nor grease "attract" dirt. QUOTE STREETWALKER

This is what we call in the real world the opposite of truth. Motor oil for cars actually has detergent in it, mixed in with the other ingredients. You know why? TO ATTRACT DIRT! Unless you plan on tearing your motor down every so often to clean out the inside components; this is necessary for an engine to last a long time. Anywhere you get something burning, whether an engine or a gun, you will have a certain amount of residue built up over time. The detergents in motor oil do what you can't do.

Now you might say, if this is the case, why not use that same detergent to clean my gun? As IOWEGAN has said many times, there are ingredients in motor oil that are not very friendly to guns. Is it true? He certainly has the experience I lack, so I will believe him. I do know enough to be able to say that the metals and the tolerances used in making guns is different than that used in cars. Since I CAN get to the inner components in my guns, I won't take the chance and clean them myself. Also, none of my guns has an oil filter to remove the deposits my motor oil would be picking up along the way.

At $170 a gallon, that corresponds to $1.33 an ounce. I use about 4 drops of oil when I lube my guns. I wipe the outside of my guns down with an oil infused cleaning cloth. I'm not certain how many drops are in an ounce, but it must be a lot. Between my wife and myself, we have 7 guns that all get cleaned at least once every 2 months; more when we are shooting more often. I have the same bottle of oil I started with over 3 years ago.

Streetwalker,
If you are shooting 500-1,000 rounds a week, I can't believe you would complain about the cost of gun cleaning products. Even if you are reloading, you have to be going through hundreds of dollars a month.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I changed the oil in my ‘84 Z-28 today,.....five quarts of Butches Gun Oil. It only cost $302 plus the filter.

Why would anyone do that? That same question goes through my mind whenever I hear people talking about using motor oil on a firearm.......
 
#37 ·
+1 Well Said!

The cost of the properly formulated maintenance supplies is so small and when properly, a container lasts so long, I don’t understand why one would not use the correct cleaners and lubes/oils. I don’t understand trying to save a few fractions of a penny per application. And I don’t buy the idea of a massive markup and paying for the gun-specific marketing. Do you really think there is any product that they don’t market the crap out of for its intended purpose?




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