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Fixing the Mini-Thirty (Mini-30) to shoot Russian steel cased berdan primed ammo

28085 Views 29 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  Zeedoctour
I know that this topic has been covered elsewhere but I wanted to make a concise post regarding how to how to make the Mini-Thirty shoot steel cased ammo reliably.

I am active duty and likely going to receive orders to CA. As a result I wanted a rifle caliber carbine that was legal there so I choose to purchase a Mini-Thirty (I already had a PC Carbine and M1A which are also legal in CA). I purchased a used 582 series and was aware of the reliability issues of these weapons with Russian steel cased ammo. Specifically that there are often light primer strikes with berdan primers and sometimes steel cased ammo results in failures to feed. Without modification I took the rifle to the range and experienced both of these issues. Approximate 1/30 light primer strikes and 1/20 failure to feed.

To remedy these issues I replaced the firing pin, hammer spring, and recoil spring. I used extra power wolf springs which I purchased through Brownells and I purchased an aftermarket pin from firingpins.com. This cost just shy of $100 in total. All of these replacements were straightforward however the firing pin required fitting as it had too much pin protrusion. I used an Emory cloth to reship and lower the firing pin protrusion. I read other recommendations recommending .038” protrusion but I fitted my new pin to .041” as measured with feeler gauges.

The new firing pin allows for deeper primer strikes. The hammer spring causes harder primer strikes, and the recoil spring places more force on the new round during the loading process.

I took the weapon to the range and shot several hundred rounds of both brass cased boxer primed ammo and steel cased berdan primed ammo. The weapon was 100% reliable without any pierced primers. The specific cheep ammo used was a virility of Wolf and Tula as well as MFS and some Hornady Varmit Express.

I tried to post links to the products that I used but my post count is not high enough to post links.

I hope that this post is helpful to someone in the future.

-Andrew
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Most others here and on other mini30 forums only recommend the firing change. Extra power springs only accelerates wear of parts.
With the stronger hammer spring be prepared to replace your firing pin again. Your .041 protrusion is plenty long enough for the Berdan primers .

If your recoil spring is an extra power spring keep in mind this may batter your gas block and at some point it may deform or crack the gas block. Have fun.

kwg
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Because it’s cheap and because we can.

The trouble with modern abbreviations is I don’t know if the OP is deploying to Canada, Central America, or California. :D
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I usually do one modification at a time.
If things don't work as planned it's easier to isolate the culprit.
If first modification achieves the end result then no more tinkering is required, but may still be desired.
That's great that it works as you intended.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Maybe I was lucky butmy mini 30 has probably 3000 steel cased ammo through it I have had a few misfires probably 10 or less and no noticeable wear.
Jeez, what is this ... Snarky Saturday?
Apparently, but I fixed it.
Cole, kwg and marlin40 hit the nail ( or the primer) on the head.
You did good in getting a longer pin in the form of the firingpins.com one.
Where you strayed off course is in the use of a heavier hammer and recoil spring.

A heavier hammer spring is not needed, as you already have a new pin with more protrusion. All more smack against the firing pin will do is put unneeded stress on your new pin.
The problem with most Berdan primed ammo is not harder primers, but deeper seated ones.
Most unknowing guys will put in a heavier hammer spring (without fitting a new pin with more protrusion) thinking that a harder smack will fix things.
You can hit the back of the pin with a sledgehammer and that won't make a too-short pin miraculously grow in length.

The proper solution is fitting a new pin with more protrusion, in the .038" to .042" length, as you've already done.

I could simplify things by saying just avoid Tula ammo, and you'd most likely never have a Commie ammo ignition problem in your Mini-30.
Just about every Mini-30 ignition problem story includes the word "Tula".
Like Budweiser, Tula is great at advertising and marketing, but doesn't necessarily make the best product.

I avoided Commie ammo in my Mini's for years because of bad experiences with Tula, but once I started testing other Russian brands I was pleasantly surprised.
Red Army Standard or Golden Tiger (same factory and ammo, just different packaging) is way better than Tula, in accuracy, velocity, cleanliness and ignition.
Silver and Golden Bear ( made by Barnaul) is better yet.

With Tula, using my factory pin ( .034" protrusion), I get 15 or 20 rounds out of 100 that will fail to go off the first try.
With Red Army, 1 or 2 rounds out of 100.
With Silver Bear, I have had zero (0) rounds fail to go off, out of hundreds fired.

I have fitted a firingpins.com pin to .038" protrusion, just in case of SHTF and Tula is all I can lay my hands on, but those pins stays in the butt stock pouch of each Mini, as I would rather just avoid Tula.
For the same money, $6 a box, I can buy RAS or several other better rounds, and for a buck a box more, I can get Silver Bear, which shoots like match ammo in my Mini's and my x39 AR.

Yes, you can pick up Tula in almost every gun store in Amerika, but you'd be better off, Comrade,in ordering some better ammo online, like SG ammo, LAX ammo or TargetSports.com.
Cheaper buying online and in quantity, and better quality to boot.

As far as installing a heavier recoil spring, no earthly reason to do so.
Mini's are way over gassed as it is, and we install smaller gas port bushings and Wilson 1911 buffers to tame things down.
All a heavier recoil spring does is make things slam harder and wear parts faster.

Stock springs on a Mini are fine as they are, putting a heavier spring on a Mini is like putting big knobby tires on a Formula One car.
I can't think of a bigger waste of money.
Not only are they not necessary, but they will do more harm than good.
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Cole, kwg and marlin40 hit the nail ( or the primer) on the head.
You did good in getting a longer pin in the form of the firingpins.com one.
Where you strayed off course is in the use of a heavier hammer and recoil spring.

A heavier hammer spring is not needed, as you already have a new pin with more protrusion. All more smack against the firing pin will do is put unneeded stress on your new pin.
The problem with most Berdan primed ammo is not harder primers, but deeper seated ones.
Most unknowing guys will put in a heavier hammer spring (without fitting a new pin with more protrusion) thinking that a harder smack will fix things.
You can hit the back of the pin with a sledgehammer and that won't make a too-short pin miraculously grow in length.

The proper solution is fitting a new pin with more protrusion, in the .038" to .042" length, as you've already done.

I could simplify things by saying just avoid Tula ammo, and you'd most likely never have a Commie ammo ignition problem in your Mini-30.
Just about every Mini-30 ignition problem story includes the word "Tula".
Like Budweiser, Tula is great at advertising and marketing, but doesn't necessarily make the best product.

I avoided Commie ammo in my Mini's for years because of bad experiences with Tula, but once I started testing other Russian brands I was pleasantly surprised.
Red Army Standard or Golden Tiger (same factory and ammo, just different packaging) is way better than Tula, in accuracy, velocity, cleanliness and ignition.
Silver and Golden Bear ( made by Barnaul) is better yet.

With Tula, using my factory pin ( .034" protrusion), I get 15 or 20 rounds out of 100 that will fail to go off the first try.
With Red Army, 1 or 2 rounds out of 100.
With Silver Bear, I have had zero (0) rounds fail to go off, out of hundreds fired.

I have fitted a firingpins.com pin to .038" protrusion, just in case of SHTF and Tula is all I can lay my hands on, but those pins stays in the butt stock pouch of each Mini, as I would rather just avoid Tula.
For the same money, $6 a box, I can buy RAS or several other better rounds, and for a buck a box more, I can get Silver Bear, which shoots like match ammo in my Mini's and my x39 AR.

Yes, you can pick up Tula in almost every gun store in Amerika, but you'd be better off, Comrade,in ordering some better ammo online, like SG ammo, LAX ammo or TargetSports.com.
Cheaper buying online and in quantity, and better quality to boot.

As far as installing a heavier recoil spring, no earthly reason to do so.
Mini's are way over gassed as it is, and we install smaller gas port bushings and Wilson 1911 buffers to tame things down.
All a heavier recoil spring does is make things slam harder and wear parts faster.

Stock springs on a Mini are fine as they are, putting a heavier spring on a Mini is like putting big knobby tires on a Formula One car.
I can't think of a bigger waste of money.
Not only are they not necessary, but they will do more harm than good.

FINALLY! Glad to hear you chip in Sandog!!
What is snarky about recommending people not use cheap foreign made ammo that will cause corrosion?

A little heavy handed on the moderating, there.
You missed it - thru no fault of your own.

There was a particularly nasty rant made just above my comment which had no place on this forum so I called it out.

Bonk agreed and removed it.
I might be wrong, have been before, but if the berdan primers fire the second time then the pin must be long enough just not hitting with enough force. From what I have seen they always fire the second time around.
No primers are that hard.
The problem with Tula ammo is not only deeper seated primers, but primers not all seated to a uniform depth.
If it was just hard primers, some Russian ammo like Silver Bear or RAS would have the same rate of failure, but they don't.

People buy Tula not only because it's cheap, but it's more widely available.
Any store that carries x39 ammo will have some Tula.
But as I pointed out, several other (much better) brands of steel case sell for just as cheap.
And if you have a dislike for shooting steel cases in your Mini, there are brass case, or brass plated steel, that sell for just a bit more.
Geco is one brand that if bought in quantity, can be had for $8-$9 a box, and it is Boxer primed, reloadable brass.

I used to avoid steel case, but the reasons for not using it have little validity.
Steel used in the cases is much softer than your chamber, and bi metal bullets are softer than your bore.
If you shoot a lot, and I mean a WHOLE lot, your barrel might wear out sooner, but with the hundreds of $$$ you saved on ammo, just get a new barrel put on.
The one area that might be a problem is expansion/contraction.
Steel doesn't contract that millisecond after firing like brass does, so your extractor is working a bit harder.

I have not noticed any additional wear or broken an extractor from firing steel case ammo, but having a spare extractor on hand ( and a spare firing pin), and knowing how to swap them out is something any Mini owner should do, and be knowledgeable about, no matter what kind of ammo you shoot.
Why send your carbine back to Ruger for repair when it's a $8 part and takes 20 minutes of your time to do it yourself ?
And in a SHTF scenario, you won't be able to send it back to Ruger.

Silver Bear by Barnual has become my preferred ammo, accuracy and reliability equaling my carefully assembled handloads with Hornady bullets and Winchester primers.
And it's not just one Mini that likes it, my 3 Mini-30's and my x39 AR shoot great with it.
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Not neccesarily. It could be that the first strike sensitizes (pre-stresses) the primer so that it only takes another light hit to cause ignition. Just a thought anyway.
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Not neccesarily. It could be that the first strike sensitizes (pre-stresses) the primer so that it only takes another light hit to cause ignition. Just a thought anyway.
Either way the length of the firing pin is adequate. Just the force needed to fire the round changed not the length of the firing pin. If the proper force was applied the first time a second strike would not be needed.

If the primer is set too deep to fire it the first strike by the firing pin but fires it on the second strike, the firing pin does not get longer for the second strike, it is just close to doing the job on the first strike. If a round does not fire the second strike then the firing pin is too short for the depth of the primer.
https://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ar-15-talk/195682-midway-ar-stoner-7-62x39-ar15-kit-sale.html
Read posts #6 through #11.
We were talking x39 AR's here, but both of us also shoot Mini-30's.
Imarangemaster figured it out, used both the longer pin and a heavier hammer spring, but when he took the heavier spring out, he was getting the same primer indentation.
My last 583 Mini-30 (that I sold last year), I had to replace the firing pin with a longer one from firing pins.com. The new 584 (2019 production) I just got fires Tulammo steel 100% with the stock firing pin. It appears to have a .039" to .040" protrusion, much more than earlier Mini-30s I have had. I do have an occasional dead primer, though, but those had really deep dimples. That was about the same rate of dead primers on Tulammo that I would have with a Saiga or 7.62x39 AR15 (1/100 or so).

I use the stock firing pin and hammer spring, but added a Buffer Tech rear buffer chill the recoil snap a bit.



BTW: That target wasn't Tulammo. It was 10 rounds in less than 10 seconds of my Nosler 123 grain hand load at 25 yards.

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