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Discussion Starter #1
This front sight won't come off for anything! The 1022 I had before this was easy, my front sight has been obliterated before it even budged an inch. I'm going from left to right and i swear to god this is frustrating, any pointers?
 

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WD40 or similar product the snot out of it and let it sit for a bit.

Use a proper punch.

You could also try heating it up (hairdryer or shooting it for instance).

Make sure the barrel is properly supported and not giving with each hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Finally got it out, I had it in a padded vice, tried the hair dryer.. nothing.. WD40 nothing... Ended up carefully drilling it so I can loosen how it was wedged and finally got it out. I'm kind of wondering since mine was right off the assembly line was it thrown on right when they finished it(which binded the front sight?)?

Because the receiver plugs actually had finish coated over them (when removing them some finish on the receiver flaked off...) Its nice ruger gave me a new rifle because of their warranty but this one feels a bit cheaper as far as the finish and trigger housing are concerned. .
 

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I had trouble with my front sight also. I pounded real hard on it with a steel punch and 3-lb hammer for about 15 minutes straight before it finally began to budge. Left the base of the sight all scratched up, but I finally got it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I moved up to different size hammers, and even with your normal size hammer I had no luck. That thing was on there good lol.
 

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Had the same headache getting the front sight out of one my 10/22s, but on another, it came out smooth and easy. Guess taking front sights out of a 10/22 is like a box of chocolates ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know what was more frustrating. getting that sight off or reassembling the trigger, sear, and trigger sear spring without the spring flying away
 

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Both my rear and front sights were a PITA to get off of my 77/357 but for different reasons.

The rear sight I got all ancy late at night and decided to use tools in the kitchen (hammer, flathead as a punch) to pop it out and replace it. Long story short, it worked, but it was a bad idea all around with lots of stupid mistakes and there's a 'Bubba' ding /scratch combo below the dovetail slot.

The front sight I actually used a proper punch for (steel) and was smart enough to WD40 the snot outta first, but was still a brute to get out. To top it off, the new sight required quite a bit of filing and oomph as well to get into the slot.

To be honest, if I had to choose, I'd rather have to reassemble the trigger assembly than redo those sights again, because though the trigger assembly is a pain, it doesn't have the added fear in the back of my mind that I'm caveman hammering the snot outta the side of a rifle barrel to get a tiny piece of metal off of it without putting a cartoon 'round the corner' curve or good sized dent into it.
 

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It WILL come out if you follow me.

Sight removal requires two things, and it will come out just fine, with a minimum of headache. I've removed many successfully. Failing to do either of the following will mean simply that it won't budge. Lube has nothing to do with it. The metal is married so tightly that no useful lubrication will get in, anyway. Remember that sights are intentionally installed so they won't move under the repeated vibration of firing. The only way to move them is to use professional techniques.

First, be sure to clamp the barrel in a heavy machine vise directly under the front sight dovetail. It MUST be clamped there, and it MUST be in a solid machine vise of the 50 pound kind. The bench must have no vibration. Wee little vises and flimsy workbenches like they sell for doing hobbies just won't work. If you do any gun work, it'll be an asset for years. I reversed the steel pads years ago to the smooth side, which is what I did when I trained at Smith & Wesson in the 70s, and I can chuck a gun in without marring it. On to part two.

Secondly, the drift you use must be a solid piece of round brass or German silver bar stock, ground to to a flat wedge to precisely fit the height and width of standard dovetails. You don't want to dent the sight dovetail, which will actually broaden it and make it tighter. And, you certainly don't want to go near the edge and stake it, which will do likewise.

Place the drift exactly perpendicular to the barrel and parallel to the dovetail. You must position the drift low in the dovetail at the widest part to get the best advantage. Going high will twist it downward and defeat your effort. Using a 2 ounce ball peen hammer, drive confidently and with a straight stroke, from left to right. There's a correct sound associated with this procedure that will tell you when the sight is moving. A ringing sound means it's vibrating like a tuning fork. Be sure everything is tight, and drive harder. A thud means it's moving. If you're getting neither sound, see your local car mechanic and ask to use his vise. :)

Brownells sells sight pushers, but frankly, I think they work no better, and often they don't work at all.

If you do not have access to a machine vise, you may as well saw the sight off, for you'll do nothing except beat it to a pulp.
 

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Good advice above, but I had no machine vise or good quality work bench. What I did was using some heavy duty clamps and two wooden 1x3's. I placed one piece of wood underneath the barrel near the muzzle and another on top and clamped them down good to my POS work bench. I also had no brass punch, just a few small steel ones, so I just used the one that fit the best. I also used progressively bigger hammers, first starting out with a light ball-peen kind, then moving up to a regular one, and then finally going for the 3-pound mini sledge. Had to be careful when whacking the punch so as not to have it slip and hit the barrel or move up on the sight. It was slow going, and repeated blasts of WD40 and PB Blaster, even allowing it to soak over night, had no effect. I just had to wail on that punch at the sight's base repeatedly and very hard with that 3-lb hammer for at least 15 minutes straight, taking my time to make sure my aim was right. I also switched hands from right to left and vice-versa several times because after a couple minutes or so that 3 lb hammer would start feeling like 50 lbs!
 

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I still haven't gotten mine off. To lazy to go down the street and get the block and punch from my friend. I did notice that the grooves on the front sight and the grooves on the barrel have different tapers. Which I believe would cause the difficulty that people are experiencing. Hitting it in the wrong spot can wedge it at an angle instead of sliding out. I'm just going to score mine with the dremel. It'll take me half the time as I spent trying to punch it out. It's not like it's going back on.
 

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I can't get either sight, front or rear, to move so much as a micron. Drift, ball peen hammer -- ha! The stock sights spit on them. I bought fiber optic sights, but it's looking like I will remain, quite literally, stuck w/ the stock sights. I won't lie, I'm more than a bit pissed off at this point.
 

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I can't get either sight, front or rear, to move so much as a micron. Drift, ball peen hammer -- ha! The stock sights spit on them. I bought fiber optic sights, but it's looking like I will remain, quite literally, stuck w/ the stock sights. I won't lie, I'm more than a bit pissed off at this point.
Can't blame you. What a headache.

After all the trouble and cussing it took to get the front sight off of my carbine, I ended up going with a red dot sight, anyway. Glad I did. It's a wicked little shooter, now. That red dot is a hoot to use on a 10/22. Anyway, you still have the red dot/scope option. Here's mine with the Bushnell TRS-25.

 

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North country gal: I've never used a red dot, but now might be the time to start. I take it you're happy w/ your Bushnell? Easy enough to sight in & use? I take care of my firearms, but the 10/22 is a "fun gun" for me. I don't want to have to baby the optics like I might for a hunting rifle.

In the meantime, I'll work on these stubborn stock sights. Haven't tried using hand grenades yet ...
 

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I can't get either sight, front or rear, to move so much as a micron. Drift, ball peen hammer -- ha! The stock sights spit on them. I bought fiber optic sights, but it's looking like I will remain, quite literally, stuck w/ the stock sights. I won't lie, I'm more than a bit pissed off at this point.
Check to see if the sight dovetail has not been peened over a bit to pin the sight from moving. I did mine the other day and only used a very light hammer with a large punch. The night before I noticed that the dovetail was lightly peened and straightened it out then multiple drops of CLP for the night. Had to clamp the barrel pretty good down to the bench. Sight came out after about 100 light taps.

Now just waiting on the fiber optic front and peep rear sights to get here. Shipped on Thursday so hope I get it today or Monday.
 

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North country gal: I've never used a red dot, but now might be the time to start. I take it you're happy w/ your Bushnell? Easy enough to sight in & use? I take care of my firearms, but the 10/22 is a "fun gun" for me. I don't want to have to baby the optics like I might for a hunting rifle.

In the meantime, I'll work on these stubborn stock sights. Haven't tried using hand grenades yet ...
Very happy with the Bushnell and as easy to sight in as any scope. Target acquisition with a red dot on a rifle is amazing - nothing faster. Throw the rifle to your shoulder and that red dot is right there waiting for you. It will spoil you.
 

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Not saying anything against Bushnell, but I used something similar I got from Midway.
It has both read and green and several different types of image (dot, cross, etc.).

I agree that something like either of those is very help full. :)


P.S. If you go with the Midway offering, keep an eye on it rather than just ordering.
They have it on sale several times per year.
 

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Thanks for the recommendations. I'm thinking I know what I'll be requesting for Christmas. :)
 

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Had the same headache getting the front sight out of one my 10/22s, but on another, it came out smooth and easy. Guess taking front sights out of a 10/22 is like a box of chocolates ...
Ok North country gal whats going on with the avitars. First James and now you. i loved granny. :confused:
 

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I can't get either sight, front or rear, to move so much as a micron. Drift, ball peen hammer -- ha! The stock sights spit on them. I bought fiber optic sights, but it's looking like I will remain, quite literally, stuck w/ the stock sights. I won't lie, I'm more than a bit pissed off at this point.
Don't give up! My front sights laughed at the ball peen hammer and shrugged off the regular hammer as if a fly had landed on it. Go for the 3-lb mini sledge and wail away at it. Just be careful with your aim. And even with the 3-lb mini sledge, it still wouldn't budge after repeated, hard blows until about 15 minutes later. Just make sure it's in a good, well-padded vice and aim carefully.
 
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