It doesn't apply to all cartridges equally.I'm suspicious about their "inadequate crimping". They refer to inadequate crimp being the cause for bullet movement. As far as I'm aware, you should have enough neck tension without crimp, if not something isn't right with your reloading.
If you need to apply crimp to fix the bullet in the case, then you probably crimp so hard that the bullet deforms.
If I remember correctly there is some post here on the forum of Iowegan giving some quantitative info on what the effect of crimp is....
I'm definitely interested to hear more about this from various people. Because this sounds like balancing bullet-deformation (a very strong crimp) and thus accuracy with proper operation safety. This is clearly a matter of experience ... and thus perfect for this forumIt doesn't apply to all cartridges equally.
When you get into some of the 'bigger boomer' revolver rounds like 44 magnum, a sufficient crimp is required to hold the bullet in place during recoil for the rounds that haven't been fired yet. They can lock up a revolver if they get to be longer than the cylinder in length.
Using slower burning 'magnum' powders requires a bit stronger crimp as well to ensure a little bit of delay (measured in milliseconds) so the powder burns more completely.
I have experienced bullet movement or pull in .357 mag when using plated bullets with no canellure and a light crimp. I no longer use plated bullets in magnum loading for this reason. Any crimp I've tried that is sufficient to hold the bullet under recoil also results in more bullet deformation than I care to accept. I have used a taper crimp to success with plated bullets in revolver cartridges when using medium to fast powders.I assume .357 magnum isn't a big enough boom for this to happen, because I never experienced any bullet forward movement in my reloads (and I don't crimp much).
I have done the same with light .38 spec. loads. Heavy .357 mag and up (.41, .44, .45, .480) loads with 4227, 110, 296, 400 etc. require a well formed roll crimp more than anything to get proper powder burning.I have experienced bullet movement or pull in .357 mag when using plated bullets with no canellure and a light crimp. I no longer use plated bullets in magnum loading for this reason. Any crimp I've tried that is sufficient to hold the bullet under recoil also results in more bullet deformation than I care to accept. I have used a taper crimp to success with plated bullets in revolver cartridges when using medium to fast powders.
I'm pretty sure that's the problem. I have been crimping to just remove case flare. I don't have a .357/9mm taper crimp die yet and I've only been able to get bullets without cannelure around here (plated).You may not be applying enough crimp
Interesting. You know I do run Lee equipment (I do have my financial limits unfortunately), so this could also be part of the issue.If you use Lee "factory crimp" dies, they are notorious for squeezing the case against the bullet (post sizing). When the cartridge exits the die, the brass case expands but the bullet doesn't ..... leaving you with poor neck tension.
I'm confident that is not the problem with my 6" Colt King Cobra If I'm out of bullets the thing can perfectly serve as a club.Of course if the revolver is way too light
Thanks, we should be fine here on the country-side. To be honest, I think chances are high that something happens in one of the EU capitals tonight... I sure hope not.I see Belgium is in the news again ... more terrorists. I hope you are safe!
Perhaps I have confused you .... Lee carbide sizer dies are OK ... pretty much the same as other brands of carbide sizer dies. Likewise with their expander die and bullet seating die. The problem is the full length post sizing operation done in the crimp die (FCD). Lee does use a carbide ring in their "factory crimp die" but as far as I know, Lee is the only brand to use a post sizer in the crimp die. All other brands use a standard steel die ... not carbide. You don't have to lube cases for the crimp die ... only the sizer die if it is not carbide.Interesting. You know I do run Lee equipment (I do have my financial limits unfortunately), so this could also be part of the issue.
I'l make sure to buy another brand of taper crimp die. Should be carbide though, I'm not going to start lubing cases for a single die.