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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a Trigger Job on my S&W 642 Airweight. The trigger was pinching my finger so I brought it in to have it polished and smoothed out. The work was done by Norton Firearms. Also included in their trigger job:

1. Adjusted Break
2. Loosen Mainspring
3. Replace Trigger Spring with Wolff #9, reducing the factory 15lb pull to 9lbs.

Now I'm being told at the S&W forum that it is not uncommon for J-Frames to misfire if the trigger pull isn't heavy enough, and some of the members felt that the #9 spring may be too light for that gun. I haven't taken it to the range yet, but the trigger pull still feels a tad heavier then my LCR.

This gun is to be one of my carry pieces, and now I'm concerned that I might not be able to rely on it %100 for SD.

What are your thoughts about this?
 

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We, (my better half, actually) have a S&W 642.

The factory trigger pull IS a bit hard.

No mods yet.

We'll be watching here for opinions.

Thanks,

Duane
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Make sure you shoot your intended carry rounds at the range with the new springs, so you are absolutely sure there are no light primer strikes. If you can't make it fail, it's good to go.
I will shoot 50 rounds of WWB target ammo, plus 25 rounds of Hornady 110gr .38spl+P CD, then 20 rounds of Corbon 125gr 38.spl+P JHP. within the next week or so.

If something is very wrong, I believe it will start to act up during that session.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
We, (my better half, actually) have a S&W 642.

The factory trigger pull IS a bit hard.

No mods yet.

We'll be watching here for opinions.

Thanks,

Duane
The trigger pull on my 642 was rating at 15lbs by my gunsmith. I feel that is unacceptable, if you consider that the Taurus M380 mini revolver firing .380acp has a trigger pull slightly heavier (which they claim is needed for firing rimless cartridges), and everyone who reviewed this gun complained about the heavy trigger pull.

I will let you know how the range session goes.
 

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I wouldnt think you would carry your J frame revolver cocked so I dont think there would be a problem. Like already stated throw some rounds down range and see how it performs.
 

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I am not a gunsmith or pretend to be one, but here is my take.
For every action and equal an opposite reaction (according to Mr Newton)
So if the mainspring to so light to give me a great trigger pull, that same spring will have light momentum sending the hammer forward in either single or double action
I learned this the hard way back in the 1970s. Had a S&W model 10 that had the strain screw that hit against the main spring (leaf type not coil). I loosened the strain screw to where the trigger pull was very smooth and light. I thought I was genius until I went to the range and the hammer did not have enough power for the FP to activate the primers consistently.
My 2 cents... for a self defense pistol I will take a heavy trigger pull for 100% reliability.
If I am wrong on this i hope a real gunsmith can chime in
 

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I had the same work done to my new 642. They have terrible triggers for a S&W. I do not know of the gunsmith that did the work for you but if they have a good reputation they should know what they are doing. As stated earlier, fire at least 100 rounds of the ammo you are going to carry for SD through it to test for light primer strikes and if no problems I would feel comfortable to carry it.
 

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I have had a 642 Airweight 38 for years and put a lot of rounds through it. The trigger has always been very heavy,notchy, and grainy. I hoped it would get better with use but didn't. Recently I carried it to a gunsmith and $25.00 later it is wonderful. He said he just smoothed the parts to S&W specs. Best money I have spent on a gun. I am most surprised how i am not pulling off target any more because the trigger pull was so bad. Especially on double taps.
 
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