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Bought a new mark III competion 2 weeks ago had a wide gap where the barrel sits on the frame, Came into day a little better but not very tight, Still has a gap compare to my buddies mark III. They put a differnt frame on it. But now that I think about it they should have just replaced the hole gun Insted of trying to put a differnt frame on it, Back to Ruger again
 

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Do you happen to have any pics?

I'd love to see them as I'm not clear on exactly what the problem is here. Are we talking about where the bottom of the barrel hits the frame or where the side of the barrel touches the frame on right & left sides?

I bet I'm not the only one who'd like to see. So we know what potential problems to look for when buying another Ruger.

Hope they get things straightened out. Pretty depressing to get a gun "fixed" only to have it come back still with a problem. Twice to fix the same problem sounds like tales of Taurus where the same gun goes back repeatedly but keeps coming back a Taurus.
 

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My most recent Mark III Hunter has also been disappointing. I had to send it back twice because of a roughly cut finish and a jacked up feed ramp. My barrel also has a slight gap on the ejection side of the frame. The rear corner of the frame had a sharp point that I believed caused the gap but once I carefully sanded it off it made no difference. My first Hunter is flawless. If I hadn't done a transfer initially to get this gun I would of never bought it. It's a 6.8" and my 4.25" out shoots it. I have more of an action style of shooting and I thought that was the difference but when I bullseye shoot the longer barrel is still inferior in accuracy.

EDIT: I compared my 6.8" frame-barrel gap to two of my other Mark pistols and they were similar so no biggie there. I bench fired it on some sand bags out in the shop yesterday (indoor trap) and it shot high but a nice 1" group at 15 yards. I adjusted the rear sight all the way down and its still a 1/2" high but very tight. I imagine I will need to adjust it up a little when I get it to the outdoor range. I guess the only complaint I have now is that I had to send it back twice to get what I originally paid for.
 

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I just got a new 2012 model MK III SS Hunter with 6 7/8" barrel transfer also, which has a rough cut frame. The bottom of the trigger guard is rough and one side has had too much material removed that is highly noticeable. So I've been wondering about the barrel and the rest of it. :confused:
 

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I haven't really put enough rounds through it yet or, found the ammo it prefers yet but, at 10 yds. braced off the porch rail I managed a 10 round group of WIN. Dynapoints inside a 2" black shoot n see dot measuring about 1.5" but, I'm pretty new to pistol shooting and only have around 100 rnds. through it so far. Thanks! :)
 

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I have a small gap between my 2008 produced receiver and frame, but it's the same on both sides, about 1/32". They all have a small gap.

When I did my LCI plug I made a new pin from 1/8" stainless rod. I was able to make it just long enough (17/32") to grab with needle nosed pliers without it contacting the frame.
 

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Once I make sure my barrel is good I plan on doing some trigger work as it seems pretty stiff I have a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge but, haven't checked it yet. Anyone know about what the average pull weight should be when new from the factory? :)
 
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