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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week when I took my PC carbine out I had a stovepipe on the second magazine but none after that. Today, after about 50 rounds I started getting one almost every magazine and I was only loading 10 at a time. After a bit it seemed to get a little better but still way more than I was anticipating. I'm going to break it down tonight and do a super clean and re-lube it. Since it is new maybe it just needs to finish breaking in. Hopefully. Anyone else have an issue like this. I did a search but must have used the wrong search words. Or else nobody else has had this issue. On the plus side it is still much more accurate than I expected.
 

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I did get 2 stove pipes running blazer 9mm. It was under 500 rounds at the time. I cleaned it, read a bunch of crap, bought mcarbo stuff (springs, ejector arm, pins, recoil pad thing) put it back together, relubed my way, and have ran the pee out of it for the three years since with no issue. Still have factory parts, and cant say the mcarbo stuff made a difference, but it has fuctioned fine so far.
 

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Check the extractor. It might be chipped or broken. Like this Mcarbo after market extractor that I installed on my PC Charger. They replaced it, but I put the OEM extractor back in. It is not unheard of for Ruger PCC OEM extractors to chip.
Grey Tints and shades Gas Auto part Composite material
 

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I have the 6.5" version. Running Glock and Magpul mags. No stovepipe issues. Did have some trouble with the Magpul mags dropping out of the magwell after 2-3 rounds. Everything is running very well since I switched the mag release to the right side.

I might need to buy an extra extractor or two. Will Ruger send them or is it "factory fit only"?
 

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What were you running through it? I usually shoot what I reload, and have found that some of the light target loads I've put together can cause problems moving the relatively heavy, compared to a pistol slide, bolt. Have not had a problem with the stuff loaded to standard pressures or greater. For the stuff I have bought, CCI Blazer 9mm seems to be a little under powered where I can feel the difference in the pistols, although I have not had a problem with the 20 or so rounds of it I put through my PC-9.
 

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There's no way to diagnose this over the Internet forum, I'm sorry to say. All the suggestions were good, and it could be any one of them.

  • Magazine - a possibility is remote but the raising column can be bumping the brass
  • Ejector - absolutely. It can be contacting too far off center if it's bent down. Or, it can be dragging if it's bent up.
  • Bolt face - been there. In fact, if you see the ejector flat-wearing on top, check for reverse overhang.
  • Deadblow weight - you'd think that if the weight were stuck, the gun would only cycle harsher and throw the brass harder. But not so. It must move properly, or the gun stovepipes.
  • Extractor - yep, that too. In old blowback guns extractor did nothing, some didn't even have it. Not in the Ruger! You have to have it in order, or else the case does not rotate out energetically enough.
  • Can just be dirty enough, too.
  • Here's the kicker - it can stovepipe if something is wrong with the recoil spring and its buffer. I don't have high-speed photography to prove it, but I think it limits the travel too much is what happens. The case does not get the rotation it needs then.

Either way, you're in for replacing all the parts in order. Start with the ejector, because it's the most common cause, and it's easy to swap it between magwells. You have a spare in the box, in which the gun arrived.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'm going to do a thorough cleaning for starters. While giving it some more thought it's possible that my reloads weren't quite hot enough. It is one of my favorite loads for my Beretta but it may not be hot enough for the Ruger's dead blow action. I strongly suspect that the bolt wasn't moving rearward far enough to eject the empty case. There would be another round starting into the chamber but the empty would stovepipe. I'm not too worried about it since this doesn't seem to be a common issue. I will try out a few suggestions one at a time to try to eliminate things but first off I'm going to bump up my powder charge (and do a thorough cleaning). I was running what my manual calls a starting load which is what I normally use when loading coated cast bullets. The extractor looks okay. I'll check it and the ejector when I field strip it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That gives me another thing to check out. It's got to be something simple since there are so many guys out there saying they've never had any issues after many rounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I took my carbine apart again and after a thorough cleaning I inspected everything under a magnifying glass. Still nothing out of place. No broken corners or obvious rub wear or impact damage. I compared the ejector to the one in the Glock magwell and they look the same. Same bend, everything. A somewhat pathetic looking extractor but since we all have the same one that shouldn't be the problem. So now I'll wait until I can get out again and see if hopefully it just needed breaking in. If not, then I'll try replacing some of the more suspect parts. In spite of it's weight I really do like this rifle and I hope I can get it running reliably.
 

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I took my carbine apart again and after a thorough cleaning I inspected everything under a magnifying glass. Still nothing out of place. No broken corners or obvious rub wear or impact damage. I compared the ejector to the one in the Glock magwell and they look the same. Same bend, everything. A somewhat pathetic looking extractor but since we all have the same one that shouldn't be the problem. So now I'll wait until I can get out again and see if hopefully it just needed breaking in. If not, then I'll try replacing some of the more suspect parts. In spite of it's weight I really do like this rifle and I hope I can get it running reliably.
Check the extractor extra good for a burr in that inside corner. Also set it on a granite plate or very flat surface and see how flat it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's going to be the next thing I try if the issue continues. The stock extractor looks really anemic and I'm surprised it works at all. I wish I had a second magazine to try also. I don't mind spending the money to fix it but I hate buying medicine for a dead horse. So I will give it a fair chance but I'm not going to spend a fortune here. As I try to find more info I keep running into a lot of other guys who have stovepipe issues. Typical that I never saw any of those warnings until I bought mine. Still, there are enough guys who are happy with theirs that I feel it does deserve a chance. We'll see what happens I guess.
 

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Many of the very early guns had extraction / ejection issues. Some members posted about experimenting by bending their ejectors. Seems Ruger got the problem solved as I haven't heard too much about that issue in the last few years.

What mags are you running? I installed the Glock adapter in both of mine and never had an issue.

The extractor on my early standard model looked really cheap and frail. That said, I never had any issues. Nonetheless, I purchased and installed an MCarbo extractor. Visual comparison between the MCarbo and the OEM was night and day.

My later Chassis model extractor looked much like the MCarbo, so it appears Ruger may have addressed that also.

If I were you I think my next step would be the mag well swap. Glock mags are fairly cheap and available.

Keep us filled in.
Bepe
 

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Maybe this is the issue with Stovepipes?
Intereresting vid, and possibly a solution. In a very different context, unrelated to Ruger PCC issues, experienced users of 10-22s have been "rounding-off" the rather square OEM lower rear edge of the bolt where it contacts the hammer in order to "smooth" out the action. Gentle "radiusing" of the lower rear edge of the bolt, and No "High-Power" springs required, AFAIK. See posts on rimfirecentral Getting back to Ruger PCC, it would not be surprising if manufacturing tolerance "stack-up" in some components (Or even possibly an initial mis-design or oversight) makes it beneficial to gently chamfer some obvious interference points.

Would not be the first time Ruger made a mistake.

For example: I have a Ruger GSR Scout rifle, based on Ruger's M77 action. The top of the receiver bridge is a "sharp" right angle, and often causes the bolt to "hang-up" if both upward and forward force is simultaneously exerted on the bolt handle while closing the bolt. Long story short, a very gentle chamfer at the interference point at upper receiver bridge solved all bolt closure issues, and no more "hanging-up". This very gentle user-modification replicates many hundreds of forceful bolt-closures and reduces wear and tear on the surface/body of the bolt.

Posted about this as scoutrifle.org

Sticking Bolt (scoutrifle.org)'][URL='http://www.scoutrifle.org/index.php?topic=9398.0']Sticking Bolt (scoutrifle.org)[/url]

IMHO, Ruger does not always "get it right".
 

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Many of the very early guns had extraction / ejection issues. Some members posted about experimenting by bending their ejectors. Seems Ruger got the problem solved as I haven't heard too much about that issue in the last few years.

What mags are you running? I installed the Glock adapter in both of mine and never had an issue.

The extractor on my early standard model looked really cheap and frail. That said, I never had any issues. Nonetheless, I purchased and installed an MCarbo extractor. Visual comparison between the MCarbo and the OEM was night and day.

My later Chassis model extractor looked much like the MCarbo, so it appears Ruger may have addressed that also.

If I were you I think my next step would be the mag well swap. Glock mags are fairly cheap and available.

Keep us filled in.
Bepe
My PC Carbine is very current (3 months old). I will pull extractor and see if the quality of work has changed.
I get some stovepipes, not real frequent, but twice, in about every 5 clips, is still too much. Better with +P ammo, which sort of makes sense because of extra force.
 

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If I had a glock mag I'd swap out the mag well and try a glock mag. I wish somebody I knew had one to try.
First, look for the wear on the tip. Is there a flat area? If yes, you can swap the ejector itself. It's easy to pop oiff the magwell, and the part is identical between factory magwell types.

Also, pardon me for asking, but what magazine types do you have? You have no Glock, and 1 Ruger SR mag (which I guess came with the gun). Is that all you have?
 
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