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Very nice Dean , I have a little course up at the cabin and it needs a truck , thanks for the idea....keep up the great work.
 

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Now if Ruger came out a something similar to the GP100 in .45 LC with an interchangable .45 acp chamber---- heck even without the acp chamber I'd consider buying one!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ruger Mark,
Thanks.

Cyrille,
Take a look at the Alaskan, some shoot competition with the .45LC and speedloaders and some have them cut for moonclips.

GP-100 with comp-III speedloaders is what I use and .38pl +P, less cost to reload.
 

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Nice shooting sir. And nice revolver you have there.
 

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Very nice shooting...My best compliments !!! And thank you very much for posting the video....Here in Italy, all the "experts" claim that you necessarily need to use a S&W, to be competitive :rolleyes:....Now I've something to show them...
 

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Now there is a skillset lost on the new generation - speedloaders!!! Very nice handling of your wheelgun. You put some of the semi-auto shooters to shame! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for the thumbs up, Nick71 part of the reason for posting is to show that the Ruger revolver is at home in competition the new GP has a better trigger also, factory front sight needs to be changed along with grinding the finger grooves off the stock grips (for me). The GP has many things over an S&W 686.

Like I said, have not shot a revolver in many months and the GP can be shot a lot faster (and will be in coming months) and still not drop points.

Regards,
Dean
 

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When I bought my GP100-6", I compared it side by side to a smith 686. I couldn't see any difference in fit or finish in any way, and decided on the GP100. I love this revolver!
 

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Thanks guys for the thumbs up, Nick71 part of the reason for posting is to show that the Ruger revolver is at home in competition the new GP has a better trigger also, factory front sight needs to be changed along with grinding the finger grooves off the stock grips (for me). The GP has many things over an S&W 686.

Like I said, have not shot a revolver in many months and the GP can be shot a lot faster (and will be in coming months) and still not drop points.

Regards,
Dean
Dean...I absolutely agree with you : the GPs are in no way inferior to Smiths, even if their double-action trigger pull is a little longer, and so is the reset...I've also noticed that the newest GPs have a better trigger than older ones, that needed some work :rolleyes:, and I think that a GP is an overall better weapon than a current 686 :).
About the front sight, what kind of FS do you use ? I also don't like finger grooves on the Hogue grips, expecially because they prevent me from holding the gun in a proper way, and they don't fit my hand...I use the old grips with the rosewood inserts (the compact version, as I've rather small hands)...Have you ever tried them ? What do you think about them ?
I look forward to enjoying more of your videos with the GP, expecially when you'll be even more trained and less rusty !!! Thank you again.

Nick
 

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My theory is the newer GP's have better triggers than older ones, because it seems Ruger is starting to use Wolff springs as OEM parts in the GP's. My 2008 production GP had a softer trigger spring and mainspring than any other, I bought it NIB and the springs that were in it were identical to some Wolffs I had.

I like a fast lock time and a solid hammer drop, along with a fast trigger reset, so I put older stock springs in my newest GP.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Dean...I absolutely agree with you : the GPs are in no way inferior to Smiths, even if their double-action trigger pull is a little longer, and so is the reset...I've also noticed that the newest GPs have a better trigger than older ones, that needed some work :rolleyes:, and I think that a GP is an overall better weapon than a current 686 :).
About the front sight, what kind of FS do you use ? I also don't like finger grooves on the Hogue grips, expecially because they prevent me from holding the gun in a proper way, and they don't fit my hand...I use the old grips with the rosewood inserts (the compact version, as I've rather small hands)...Have you ever tried them ? What do you think about them ?
I look forward to enjoying more of your videos with the GP, expecially when you'll be even more trained and less rusty !!! Thank you again.

Nick
Nick,
The new springs (main spring) Ruger is now installing helps a great deal with trigger pull, I take some metal off the hammer at the bottom ( I don't have a picture) to aid in roll off (can not stage the trigger) and shorten the throw a little, rebound spring is stock (need a good reset) .
The grips that are on the new gun are great if you grind down the finger grooves.

Less rusty is the key, two years off because of an accident shows.

Regards,
Dean

PS we had Squadra Italia here at my range in May and they will be shooting here again in Aug, IDPA U.S. East Coast Championship
 

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(....)

Less rusty is the key, two years off because of an accident shows, as far as trained, not doing the ego thing but I'm 5 gun master in IDPA, Retro master in ICORE. (.....)

Dean,
I'm really sorry to have said "more trained" :(....I know, and I can obviously see, your great preparation...It was just a wrong choice of words; I thought it was a kind of synonym of "less rusty" :p...
Thank you very much for the informations about the trigger job on your GP :)

Best regards, Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Nick,
Was not offended, no need to be sorry.
Will try and get some pictures of mods posted along with the grip change.
Rose wood grips are O.K. but I think (for me) the new grips with finger grooves removed are better.
I don't have large hands ether and find the new grips being slim fit me and do not hang up the speedloaders .

What on the Ruger GP-100 is better than a 686 ?, what is not. Anyone.
 

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Now if Ruger came out a something similar to the GP100 in .45 LC with an interchangable .45 acp chamber---- heck even without the acp chamber I'd consider buying one!
Ditto, if I could get a GP100 in 45ACP w/moonclips I would purchase one in a heartbeat. Are you listening Ruger?
 

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What on the Ruger GP-100 is better than a 686 ?, what is not. Anyone.
For one thing, I like the button that ejects the cylinder far better than the screw on the lever of the 686. I think it's a vastly superior design. I've heard of people having trouble with those screws shooting loose, and even falling out if not watched carefully. No problem there with the Ruger button.

And from reading many boards out here, it seems to be the consensus by many that the 686 isn't built as strong as the GP100 when it comes to .357's.

Price is also a factor. The 686 is more expensive than the GP100. And it seems that pound for pound, the Ruger just seems like the better bet for your money.
 

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I could write 5 pages on why the GP100 is a better choice for pure functionality then the 686, or any S&W, but since most all of us are Ruger fans here I won't restate the obvious:)

I just know I am no fan of screws on weapons, period. I like the idea that the only screw on a Ruger is on the grip, not counting whatever that thing is inside the cylinder that has the top-secret wrench to get it out.

The fact that the entire guts of the S&W are held in by a fitted sideplate secured by 3 screws has always made me a little nervouse. Also the whole cylinder assembly as well, also held in by one tiny screw. I have had a S&W yoke screw unscrew itself at the range and the whole yoke/cylinder assembly fall out in my hand when I opened the cylinder. Sure it was on a very well used S&W that had probably had the yoke screw taken out 1,000 times, but it still happened.

Unless you press that retaining latch, that Ruger trigger guard isn't going anywhere! I like that alot, I have some Ruger Sixes that seem to have been broken down a lot, and have never had a Ruger trigger assembly decide to fall out while I was shooting.
 
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