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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a GP-100 that has always had a poor da trigger. I bought the gun new. The da trigger pull has a catch about 1/3 of the way into the rearward trigger travel, and you have to pull a lot harder to cycle the action. Sometimes the trigger binds completely in DA. Here is what I have discovered in trying to troubleshoot:

1. There is a very small amount of play (a few thousandths) between the trigger housing and the frame.
2. If you put forward (towards the muzzle)pressure on the trigger guard and pull the trigger in da the action binds.
3. If you put rearward pressure on the trigger guard and pull the trigger it cycles smoothly.
4. If you remove the hammer strut and spring the problem goes away, even if you put pressure on the trigger guard.
5. The binding happens as the hammer starts its rearward travel.
6. I stoned a few rough spots on the ball end of the hammer strut but this did not help.
7. dry firing has not helped.
8. Replacing the hammer spring and trigger return spring only made the catch more noticeable.



I would prefer to fix this myself. I called Ruger and got a return (RMA) number but then I found out it would cost over $100 to ship....screw that. I'm not going to pay 100 bucks to ship a $700 revolver. I'm looking for suggestions on parts to replace or areas that an be smoothed with a stone.
 

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Welcome and look around. There are some threads here about that
 

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Have you disassembled the entire trigger group? I wouldn't stone anything else until you have it all disassembled so you can inspect each part. The GP100 trigger group is actually quite easy to take apart and reassemble. Check YouTube.
Your transfer bar may be binding a bit or there may be some rough spots in the trigger return spring channel. I'd be concerned about that frame/ housing fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've read lots of similar threads about gp-100 triggers on this forum and others, but I haven't seen anything exactly like this. Lots of recommendations to dry fire a lot to smooth the trigger. I've done that. It didn't help. Lots of recommendations to swap out the stock springs with Wolff reduced power springs. I tried that too. It just made the binding more noticeable. I put the original trigger return spring back in. I'm not going to mess with the hammer spring again until I get my bench vise set up (In the process of moving). Also lots of recommendations to send the gun to Ruger...which I started to do until fedex told me how much it would cost to ship.

I've watched a few YouTube vids of gp100 trigger jobs. It doesn't look too hard but I'm not sure that I want to start stoning sear surfaces just yet. The single action trigger pull is fine and the double action sear looks smooth already, as does the double action surface on the trigger. I thought about giving the pawl some attention but it functions fine with the hammer spring out. The transfer bar is smooth and is not binding.

Thanks for the replies so far.
 

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You should call Ruger. The worst they can do is say no. They will more than likely provide you with as printable return postage label.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was able to eliminate the mainspring strut as the culprit. With the strut and spring removed I could still feel the catch by applying forward force on the hammer with my thumb. I can actually feel the catch much better this way. Based on what I've read on some other threads it feels like it is happening during the transition from the hammer dog to the double action sear. I stoned these surfaces just a little. There was a little improvement.
 

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Or, instead of possibly destroying the tolerances even further on this revolver, you could send it back to Ruger.

Just a thought! :eek:

1. There is a very small amount of play (a few thousandths) between the trigger housing and the frame. This sounds wrong. It should be tight.
2. If you put forward (towards the muzzle)pressure on the trigger guard and pull the trigger in da the action binds. This sounds wrong. It should be tight.
3. If you put rearward pressure on the trigger guard and pull the trigger it cycles smoothly. This sounds wrong. It should be tight.
4. If you remove the hammer strut and spring the problem goes away, even if you put pressure on the trigger guard. Make sure the hammer strut and the hammer strut seat are oriented properly and seated properly.
5. The binding happens as the hammer starts its rearward travel.
6. I stoned a few rough spots on the ball end of the hammer strut but this did not help.
7. dry firing has not helped.
8. Replacing the hammer spring and trigger return spring only made the catch more noticeable.
 

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Over $100 to send a revolver via FedEx to Ruger? How is that so? I can't recall anyone on this forum mentioning a cost that high.

As said before, you should try to get Ruger to cover the initial shipping. I believe they always cover the return-to-you shipping, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes...$140 to be exact. I had it packed in a laptop box...maybe it was a bit large. Also finding a competent person at a FEDEX location is difficult. The first location (a fedex kinkos) told me I could ship it ground if I wanted. This directly contradicts the FEDEX policy for shipping handguns which requires priority air. If you don't follow their policy the insurance for the declared value is voided. Trust me I read through their guidance document to find the details for this. Apparently their employees have not. After that experience I went to an "authorized shipper." They estimated $140 based on the size and weight. Maybe they were wrong too.

Anyway between the cost, the cluelessness of the shippers, and the fact that a DA trigger job at a local gunsmith costs less than the shipping I thought I'd try to tackle this myself.

Unfortunately after looking at the revolver again today I'm pretty sure this is not fixable without replacing the trigger housing. I removed the trigger group again and took out the trigger return spring, the plunger, and the trigger guard latch. Then I re-inserted the trigger guard into the frame to check for fit-up issues. I looks like there is some hand fitting done at the factory at the rear of the trigger guard to mate it up to the frame, and on my gun the trigger guard is just too short to snugly fit into the frame. This allows the trigger group to move front-to back about 0.5 mm when it is inserted in the frame. The trigger guard latch is fully seating, but there is still play. Like I mentioned before...if you push the trigger group forward the trigger will bind. If you push it rearward the trigger pull feels normal. The end result is that when you have the grip installed the trigger group is able to move enough to result in what is at best an inconsistent trigger pull that is rough and sometimes binds. I guess the 0.5 mm is enough to exceed the tolerances of the DA hammer dog cam surfaces or the DA sear or both. I also got my sp-101 out of the safe to see if it has similar play. There is none and the SP-101 double action trigger pull has always been good.

I'm going to contact Ruger with updated info and a sob story about shipping costs. After that the next step is finding a smaller box and a fedex employee that is not a moron.
 

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Have you contacted Ruger? They may just send a shipping label and fix it on their dime. I do not know how old the revolver is but they may take care of you. Just a thought. May be worth a try anyway, you never know.
 

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I've had a few issues with FedEx before. One being a package sent to me going to another city 150 miles away because one digit was wrong with the ZIP code. The street address and city were correct, and the package even came to the distribution facility near my area, first. When the package wasn't delivered on time, some calls soon located the package about 150 miles away, here in N. Calif. Instead of FedEx diverting the package back to my area for delivery the next day, they instead sent it all the way back to their Memphis hub, to then be sent back here several days later. I would think that FedEx's system would flag a package that has a street address that matches the city on the label, but a slightly 'off' ZIP code, and send it to the facility in the named city, as the incorrect ZIP-coded city doesn't even have a street with that name! I can even look that inconsistency up on the USPS website in a minute...

I have also found that when dealing with FedEx, the only service worth a damn from them is at one of the company's local facilities, and not a Kinko's or 'authorized shipper'.

How about UPS...?
 

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Why not send USPS. I just sent a gun and it was $15-$18 bucks an that included $600 insurance !
And i sent it from California to Missouri. Something like that. Ive never had to spend over $20 to send a gun anywhere 4 different times.

Send it to Ruger.
 
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