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This is my first revolver, so please pardon what may be a dumb question, but here goes...

When cocking the gun, the cylinder rotates normally and it locks up tight when cocked. The gun operates perfectly, no matter what caliber ammo I use. But when the cylinder is closed and not cocked, it is possible to rotate the cylinder clockwise from stop to stop, opposite to the direction that it rotates when cocking. Is this normal operation or does it indicate a weak cylinder lock?

Thanks!
 

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Mine does not do that, I have to pull back the hammer about halfway before I can spin the cylinder. It's possible that either the cylinder lock or linkage or cylinder notches are badly worn. Can you put up pictures? (I recommend Imgur)
 

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You might clarify.

Are you saying that when you close the cylinder, you can rotate until the stop is encountered? If so, that is expected. And also when closing the cylinder, it should be rotated in my estimation until it engages the stop.

Jody
 

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My GP 44 Special is at Ruger right now for this exact same problem. It's a brand new gun. I just got a shipping notice that it's on the way back so I don't know what they did to it.
 

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My GP 44 Special is at Ruger right now for this exact same problem. It's a brand new gun. I just got a shipping notice that it's on the way back so I don't know what they did to it.
I had to send in a RedHawk once for excessive side to side wobble on one of the notches. I received it back and they sent an itemized list of what they replaced but didnt say what caused it.
 

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Every DA revolver I have does it. I close the cylinder unless it closes with the notch directly over the stop it rotates to the next notch. My revolvers also the stop does not touch the cylinder during cocking, yet they still get that faint line. I would imagine that is most the cause of those lines.
 

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If you close the cylinder & it closes such that the bolt stop (or cylinder latch in Ruger-ese) under it in the frame falls BETWEEN the cylinder's locking notches, the cylinder can rotate till the latch engages a locking notch on either side of the latch's position.

If that's what you're talking about, no problem.

If the cylinder will rotate CONTINUOUSLY in either direction when fully closed & the hammer's not cocked, it's defective.

Full lockup is provided by that latch, UNDER the cylinder, IN the frame.
It's spring-loaded.
If it's not popping up at all to lock the cylinder when the hammer's NOT COCKED, it's defective.
Denis
 

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Every DA revolver I have does it. I close the cylinder unless it closes with the notch directly over the stop it rotates to the next notch. My revolvers also the stop does not touch the cylinder during cocking, yet they still get that faint line. I would imagine that is most the cause of those lines.
I don't think the OP is describing what you are. It sounds like his GP100 isn't locking into the notches, and is rotating past them, which is a problem.

You are correct, every revolver cylinder will rotate a little bit, before the latch locks into the first notch it comes to, but then it should not rotate any further.
 

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If you close the cylinder & it closes such that the bolt stop (or cylinder latch in Ruger-ese) under it in the frame falls BETWEEN the cylinder's locking notches, the cylinder can rotate till the latch engages a locking notch on either side of the latch's position.

If that's what you're talking about, no problem.

If the cylinder will rotate CONTINUOUSLY in either direction when fully closed & the hammer's not cocked, it's defective.

Full lockup is provided by that latch, UNDER the cylinder, IN the frame.
It's spring-loaded.
If it's not popping up at all to lock the cylinder when the hammer's NOT COCKED, it's defective.
Denis
I was assuming the former, as the OP said he was new to revolvers. I'm waiting for the OP to return and provide more details.
 

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After I close the cylinder it will rotate until the bottom cylinder latch engages the cylinder. Then, with the hammer down, the cylinder can be manually rotated in one direction only - toward the leade (I think that's what Iowegan previously called it). It's like the leade is cut too deep.
Before I returned it to Ruger I pulled the trigger assembly to be sure it didn't have something obstructing the latch. It had only been fired 20 times so it was all clean inside. It's should be back to me Wednesday. I'll let you know what Ruger said - if anything.
 

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My GP got back from the Mother Ship today. Here's what they did:
Fit new pawl and cylinder latch
Adjusted cylinder endplay and barrel gap.
Haven't shot it yet but it all seems to be nice and tight now.
 
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