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Discussion Starter #1
Ruger has a specified distance for firing pin protrusion on their revolvers, including the Redhawk and the GP100.

Is this specified "firing pin protrusion" dimension the exact same for both the Redhawk and the GP100?

FJ Lee Denver CO
 

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Firing pin protrusion is measured by first swinging the cylinder out then pushing the release button forward and cock the hammer. Push the firing pin fully forward with a tool then using gap gauge blades stacked on the recoil shield where they equal the same thickness as the tip of the firing pin. This is not an absolute number but rather a range from .035" to .045" for all Ruger revolvers (except rimfires). Make sure you push against the firing pin and not the transfer bar.

I've measured quite a few Rugers and have never found a single one out of spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Firing pin protrusion is measured by first swinging the cylinder out then pushing the release button forward and cock the hammer. Push the firing pin fully forward with a tool then using gap gauge blades stacked on the recoil shield where they equal the same thickness as the tip of the firing pin. This is not an absolute number but rather a range from .035" to .045" for all Ruger revolvers (except rimfires). Make sure you push against the firing pin and not the transfer bar..

Thank you for response.

So when I push on the pin ITSELF from the rear, it should protrude ABOVE the recoil shield .035-.045 inch.

Got it! Thank you!

FJ Lee Denver CO
 

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fjlee, Knowing how you like to "make" things, I thought I would post a pic of an Ordnance Firing Pin Protrusion gauge I picked up in a salvage yard back in the 70's. It is a very simple design and you can make yours a little shorter if wanted. The barrel of the gauge is 1/4" Allen Key stock (you can use regular round stock) and 1.5" in length. The "rod" going through it is .081 (# 46 drill rod or drill), and 1 7/8" long. The "set" screw can be "whatever" works for you. Drill a "centered" .081 (or whatever small rod you have available) all the way through the "barrel". Drill and tap the "barrel" for a set screw. This is how it "works". Loosen the set screw and the "rod" slides easily in and out. With one hand, push the firing pin out in the gun for full pin protrusion and hold it there. Now place the gauge barrel against the firing pin and slide the "rod" forward until it bottoms out on the recoil shield "without" pushing the "barrel" of the gauge off the firing pin tip. Take the gauge away from the firing pin and "lock" the set screw. I'll bet you already figured out where this is going! The gauge "rod" that is sticking out of the gauge at the firing pin is now the "measure" of your firing pin protrusion. Now measure with a 3" Micrometer from the rear of the gauge barrel to the tip of the "rod" and subtract the 1.5" of the barrel length and you have your firing pin protrusion without having to mess with "stacking" feeler gauges. It's that "simple"! Let me know if you have any questions......................Dick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fjlee, Knowing how you like to "make" things, I thought I would post a pic of an Ordnance Firing Pin Protrusion gauge I picked up in a salvage yard back in the 70's. I'll bet you already figured out where this is going! ....................Dick
Tnx for response. It's appreciated.
I've been thinking about fabricating something like you show and describe. It wouldn't be hard to do. There is a photo on page 90 of J. Kuhnhausen's book "The Double-Action Revolver" that shows a short version of the same thing. I wonder if we can invent one that only takes 3 hands to operate? Heh, heh......


Tnx again, my friend......
FJ Lee Denver CO
 
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