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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I haven't exactly been having great luck with the Ruger revolvers. My SP101 is back at Ruger now and will be sold to a friend as soon as it gets back. It wasn't really what I was looking for, anyway. What I wanted was more like a GP100, so I bought one of those to replace the SP101.

The GP was dirty when it arrived, as if someone had put several rounds through it without cleaning it. I accepted it anyway, since I didn't want to deal with the hassle of sending it back. I know they test fire them at the factory, but don't they usually clean them? Ordered from Bud's Guns; never had a problem with them before. Serial number says it was manufactured very recently.

I got it home and started dry firing. I was able to lock up the trigger very quickly by riding it just a little as it reset. So I took it apart to clean it, and did some polishing and de-burring per the IBOK while I was in there. I also replaced the hammer strut spring with a 12 pounder and the trigger return spring with a 10 pounder, both from Wolff.

It was smooth as glass after that for about 200-250 pulls of the trigger, then it started getting gritty and having trouble resetting. After about 300 times, it would not reset without pushing the trigger forward.

I stripped it back down and saw that the trigger return spring tunnel was filthy, despite having just been cleaned. I cleaned it again and reassembled, and again it was nice and smooth for a while.

It got crunchy again, I took it apart again, and this time I noticed that there was some wear on the trigger link plunger. Looking at the tunnel, I noticed that there were some burrs on the trigger end of the opening. So I smoothed off the burrs and cleaned that area up a bit and put it back together and...

Same thing. A couple hundred dry fires and the trigger won't reset.

A couple of videos demonstrating the problem follow. Note that it gets progressively worse.

Can anybody clue me into what I should be looking for here? Given that I saw the problem before putting in the (very slightly) weaker return spring, I don't think reverting to the original would help much.

Thanks,
-Kit
 

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I had a very similar problem. Single action worked fine, double action problem similar to yours. Worked fine a couple of times, then locked. Ruger repaired it (mine was a lot older than yours). The packing slip shows Ruger replaced the hammer, hammer dog, pawl, main and trigger springs, and hammer strut. Since yours is new, contact Ruger and ask for a prepaid return label. Ruger will make it right.
 

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I would replace the stock springs. Ruger will keep your springs and replace them with factory Ruger springs. When you put the factory springs back in the gun see if the reset problem returns. If you have no reset issues with the stock springs you need to send the gun to a gunsmith to set everything up for the lighter springs. Usually when you use a light hammer spring and return spring something has to be done to restore balance.
 

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It seems pretty obvious to me that there is a burr of some type in the trigger return spring channel or trigger link plunger.

You can make videos all day, replace every spring in it, and do anything you want, but if it was mine, I'd send it back to Ruger and let them get the damn burr out.

You've had it apart twice and haven't taken care of the problem. Let Ruger do it right. If you inadvertently take too much material off the front of the channel, it can )(*& the timing and you will have an expensive paper weight.

Ruger Customer Service.
 

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Ruger does not always clean the guns after test firing, my brand new Kodiak came with 3 dirty chambers. They probably figure they can save X number of man hours by not wiping the guns off after test firing every other chamber. If you read the book "Ruger and his guns" it gives a budget breakdown, they spend tens of thousands of dollars on test fire ammo alone each year.

Just call Ruger CS and get an emailed shipping label, in the time it takes for you to mess with the gun yourself, you'll have it back to you repaired. I had a problem with my brand new 1751 .38 GP100, and from the day I shipped it to the day I signed for it at my front door was a week and a half, with the gun 100% right and a free set of grips. 0 cost to me for any of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Part of the reason I want to know exactly what's going on and how to fix it is that I believe in understanding the devices I own and being able to repair them myself, but I also know when it's (well past?) time to throw in the towel.

I've cleaned up the channel with a hand twisted drill bit and 500 grit sandpaper, I've removed burrs where burrs should not have been, and I've polished things that should have already been smooth, and that's pretty much it. It's not any better with the factory springs back in place, so I guess it's going back to the factory. This is my third of three Rugers that's had a problem from the get go. Sure would be nice if they had QC; I think I'm done with their products.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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All major gunmakers are having QC issues, my Dad bought a NIB PC S&W 629 that was filled with graphite lube.......I popped the plate and cleaned it out for him, gun was then inoperable. It was a poorly fitted hammer block. Bought a new one (older type) dropped it in, gun works fine now. Emails to S&W CS went unanswered, I didn't bother to call since I fixed it myself, there was nothing to send in now. I didn't want them to send me a "free" hammer block that was also messed up. Poor QC for a S&W PC gun that cost $1200, to "mask" an issue with lube and throw it in the box.

Ruger will fix the guns for free, no cost. No reason to be "done" with them, people are getting lemons from every manufacturer. Guy I know bought a new Sig P220, from the golden palace of Sig Sauer where many people drink richly of the Kool Aid........it was a jammomatic and a rust magnet. He dumped it for half what he paid to some other guy who thought he could fix it........

Ruger isn't 100% perfect with QC but if you have a problem they will fix it for free and quickly. Given the stories I've heard about using the Taurus "lifetime warranty", yeah, good luck getting your gun back, actually fixed, within 6 months and probably still have to eat Overnight shipping. S&W was unresponsive to two QC issues I've had with 2 brand new guns, after that I was done with new S&W's, despite owning some really good ones.
 

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My Ruger experiences are exactly as ExArmy11b describes. My 1751 Ruger GP100 in .38spl came with a trigger that would barely let me fire it single action. Trigger had zero over-travel. Being of the nature that I prefer to fix my own stuff if possible, I finally determined that there was some frame machining debris left whereas the cylinder pawl could not travel completely up into the frame as it should, which was binding the trigger. After I removed this debris, all was good. I'm certain that Ruger would have been more than happy to pay for the return of this revolver and make it right, but I just enjoy the challenge and the satisfaction of solving something like this on my own. I agree that QC probably isn't what it once was, but the GP100 is still a wonderful revolver, and I'm glad that it is still available. Like it so much that I have two of them and wouldn't mind having another!:eek: Please keep us informed on how your dealing with Ruger goes.
 

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Ruger does not always clean the guns after test firing, my brand new Kodiak came with 3 dirty chambers. They probably figure they can save X number of man hours by not wiping the guns off after test firing every other chamber. If you read the book "Ruger and his guns" it gives a budget breakdown, they spend tens of thousands of dollars on test fire ammo alone each year.

Just call Ruger CS and get an emailed shipping label, in the time it takes for you to mess with the gun yourself, you'll have it back to you repaired. I had a problem with my brand new 1751 .38 GP100, and from the day I shipped it to the day I signed for it at my front door was a week and a half, with the gun 100% right and a free set of grips. 0 cost to me for any of it.
". I know they test fire them at the factory, but don't they usually clean them? "

Like exArmy's reply, on a new revolver I look at the cylinder right away, it should have 2 or 3 used chambers- dirty and all. Depends on the maker, but usually the empty cartridge cases are included with the new gun. Once in a while a manufacturer will also include the target used to test the gun at the factory. 2 or 3 fired is all, probably varies by maker.

What I'm looking for are these shady dealers who take a new gun out and abuse the heck out of it, trying to blow it up, and even take videos. One guy drove a bolt into the muzzle of a HiPoint .45, loaded it, clamped it in a vice then pulled the trigger remotely with a long string. His comment was- "They are warrantied for life".

By inspecting the cylinder I've caught more than one dealer who has "loaned out" or otherwise let someone try the gun out under who knows what conditions.

If all chambers are dirty- suspect something is up. If the gun has been cleaned or smells like banana oil, suspect something is up.

Guns have lifetimes. Long normally but finite.

Radio George
 

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All major gunmakers are having QC issues, my Dad bought a NIB PC S&W 629 that was filled with graphite lube.......I popped the plate and cleaned it out for him, gun was then inoperable. It was a poorly fitted hammer block. Bought a new one (older type) dropped it in, gun works fine now. Emails to S&W CS went unanswered, I didn't bother to call since I fixed it myself, there was nothing to send in now. I didn't want them to send me a "free" hammer block that was also messed up. Poor QC for a S&W PC gun that cost $1200, to "mask" an issue with lube and throw it in the box.

Ruger will fix the guns for free, no cost. No reason to be "done" with them, people are getting lemons from every manufacturer. Guy I know bought a new Sig P220, from the golden palace of Sig Sauer where many people drink richly of the Kool Aid........it was a jammomatic and a rust magnet. He dumped it for half what he paid to some other guy who thought he could fix it........

Ruger isn't 100% perfect with QC but if you have a problem they will fix it for free and quickly. Given the stories I've heard about using the Taurus "lifetime warranty", yeah, good luck getting your gun back, actually fixed, within 6 months and probably still have to eat Overnight shipping. S&W was unresponsive to two QC issues I've had with 2 brand new guns, after that I was done with new S&W's, despite owning some really good ones.
"S&W was unresponsive to two QC issues I've had with 2 brand new guns, after that I was done with new S&W's, despite owning some really good ones. "

I've been waiting over a year for a return authorization for my new but defective silver Governor.

Radio George
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, sounds like I'm a lot better off with Ruger than S&W. I will say this: Ruger customer service has been helpful and pretty much painless to deal with. I even got through to them on the phone almost immediately today; the UPS guy will pick up the GP tomorrow.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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I used to be a "fix it myself" guy but when I buy a new Ruger, and if something isn't right, it's going back. I'm not paying $6-900 to finish guns myself:)

I'm glad you're shipping it back, Ruger will fix it.

S&W seems like they're turning into the new Colt, a path they need to turn back from........Colt was notorious for being snotty and unresponsive to "civilian" customers who bought one of the few guns they actually make anymore. Colt survived on govt. contracts for M4 Carbines and ignored the commercial market. S&W is so busy pumping out plastic cop guns and pocket poppers, and M-forgery AR-15 rifles they seem to care less about the wheelgun portion of their catalog anymore, the product that built them. I don't even know who owns S&W anymore, I think it's Saf-T-Hammer.......a lock company, who acquired S&W in 2001, right at the time when most of the S&W handguns had "The Lock" incorporated into the design, imagine that........I don't dislike S&W, I kept a few of them. Most of the "shooter grade" stuff I had made awesome trade fodder for new Rugers, that S&W logo on the side and the inherent resale value makes them great trade bait.......I like the Rugers I got a lot better.

Here's a pic of the 1751 that was a "lemon", I sold the WC grips Ruger gave me , used the cash to buy some .38 to make sure it worked, the gun drives tacks now and is one of my favorites. Never touched the springs, DA is super slick, better than most of my other ones. Ruger turned a "mistake" into a gem.
 

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Never like to hear or see problems like the OP is having. Seems he has made a reasonable effort to correct it. I have dealt with Ruger CS for parts and they have always been stellar. I would be confident that they will get it right. Had a similar problem with a 686 and just sent it into S&W, I hope it turns out well.
 

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A couple years ago I had a small problem with a S&W 686. Contacted S&W and got it fixed with no problems, no questions. Makes one wonder about the reported differences.
 

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I would never recommend the "fix it yourself" approach on a new gun unless you are experienced and feel totally comfortably in doing so. Also, my fixing is pretty much limited to cleaning, lubricating, and in Ruger's case, checking for machining debris left in the revolver. One has to remember that if you do any filing or make alterations to the firearm, you risk voiding your warranty.
 
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