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I Finally had to give in to peer pressure. I bought a Stainless 4" GP100 so I could be Cool like the rest of the Ruger guys. my Local Dealer "Dared" me to wear it out......Well at least it wasnt a "Triple Dog" Dare.

My Question is How many Rounds(or times dry fired) before I have the trigger worked on to smooth out the pull. It feels pretty good but I have felt smoother during the entire travel.[?]

By the Way I have about 300 rounds through it so far.

I have Iowagens IBOK but dont wanna Put the Horses before the Cart.

Now my only other problem is resisting the .41Mag Mod[8D]

Crazy4nitro
 

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Crazy4nitro, The sooner the better. The reason for smoothing the parts is to reduce wear and to improve the "feel" of the action.
 

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quote:Originally posted by Crazy4nitro




My Question is How many Rounds(or times dry fired) before I have the trigger worked on to smooth out the pull. It feels pretty good but I have felt smoother during the entire travel.[?]
[8D]

Crazy4nitro
I don't know for sure. I ceaned my GP100 and put 100 rounds through mine yesterday. I took it apart this morning to clean and check it. While I had it apart, I found a few casting burs and some flakes that had came loose. I smoothed the surface of the trigger part's with my hard stone and lubed it And put it back together. Now when I cock it an pull the trigger, it breaks at 4 3/4lbs. I was 6 1/2lbs before. I plan on shooting it 4 or 500 more rounds, then doing some spring work if I need to. I would like to see 3lbs. I will use this pistol for target work only. I sure do like it!:)
 

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Kansas45,
when your say you Hard stoned it are you meaning a flat stone similar to a sharpening stone?..Plus I remember my parts being dry or next to dry so I guess I'll hit the manual to see the recommended lube.

Crazy4nitro
 

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That's it, Crazy. It's like a sharping stone. You can order different ones. They let you leave sharp smooth edges and surfaces where necessary. Usually, just a few light strokes is all that's needed. As far as lube goes, I use Mobile 1 5W/30 on all of my hand guns. I do clean and lube them after (or at least before) each range trip. The synthetic oil lasts through long shooting sessions.
 

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CrazyforNitro, I believe regular gun oil is the best for that lube job. Anything heavier would cause a slow reaction of force any spring would create in the action. (I hope the Nitro is for a car, not a bank job or for your heart!) (PS I was in Louisville for the Street Rod Nationals)
I have been reading a lot on this subject and trying to learn all I can before putting my GP100 into the grind. (I also bought every replacement part I could from Brownells so as not to destroy the original action).
I oiled the hell out of everything, dryfired it about 300 times more than I could stand, and am looking at all the parts that are showing friction.
I see the trigger assembly is rubbing on the right side of the frame and I am not about to polish that metal (the frame) away. I wish I could buy a new trigger from Brownells but that is from Ruger only and I don't think they will sell one if they don't install it.
One of the first things I reworked when I got interested in gunsmithing was a Marlin SS336 rifle. It was used when I bought it but not used very much. It still had original shipping grease in it. It was so tight, it wouldn't cycle as fast as I thought it should.
The stainless steel parts are so hard you really can't do much with them. I did buy all new steel parts before I started honing, grinding or polishing anything.
I bought it to fix and sell. Now it's so sweet, I might keep it. I don't need it though, it just takes up space in the safe. (I do all my hunting with a spinnerbait!)
Anyhow, I need to hear more about trigger jobs on the GP100. I am Very impressed with this gun. This one was really the inspiration to spend another thousand dollars on Rugers in the last month. Thanks! John
 

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I bought a set of Wolff springs for my GP and I must say it really improved the action.

I replaced the trigger return spring and the hammer spring with lighter rated ones.

Check out the Wolff website if you haven't already done so.
 

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Howdy Wolf (I ain't gonna call you Old yet!) The springs were one of the first things I changed. I used the heavier of the trigger springs and the heaviest of the main springs. 12# I think? I didn't want to go any lighter on the springs till I did some fine tuning on the parts.
 
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