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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brand new GP141. 35 rounds fired through it, and it works like a dream.Went to do the cleaning last night and started the takedown procedure. All went fine until the part where I have to remove the trigger assembly from the frame. Pressing on the trigger guard lock plunger would not budge. Finally after reading further, I pressed a screw driver into the end and it popped free. Huge ammount of effort to get it free. Cleaned the trigger assm. and went to try and get it all back together. 1 1/2 hours later and still could not get the assembly to go together. Pawl and transfer bar were correct but the end of the plunger seems way too long to just snap into place. Finally just pressed the plunger in with a screwdriver tip and wiggled it (as I had done about 50 times) and it went back together tight. The plunger seems to be hanging up slightly in it's hole on the handle. Way too much work to get this thing together. The rest was a breeze and it all works fine. What to do about this hard re-assembly? Ideas? Thanks!!!!!!
 

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MY SP is like that, but that just makes it good and tight when it's back together. There is a tip to correct this, here is the passage from Iowegan's IBOK.
"Insert the trigger guard in the frame. Note the fit. Often the factory leaves the back surface (the area around the trigger guard latch hole) longer than it should be. This makes the trigger guard removal very difficult. If the trigger guard has to be forced into the frame to fit, you can file down the rear flar surface until the trigger guard inserts into the frame with minimal friction."

If you don't have a copy of the IBOK, e-mail Iowegan and he will send it to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
quote:Originally posted by jimbo1096

MY SP is like that, but that just makes it good and tight when it's back together. There is a tip to correct this, here is the passage from Iowegan's IBOK.
"Insert the trigger guard in the frame. Note the fit. Often the factory leaves the back surface (the area around the trigger guard latch hole) longer than it should be. This makes the trigger guard removal very difficult. If the trigger guard has to be forced into the frame to fit, you can file down the rear flar surface until the trigger guard inserts into the frame with minimal friction."

If you don't have a copy of the IBOK, e-mail Iowegan and he will send it to you.
Yes, thanks I have his excellent book. I was wondering about the flat surface file down, and do I have to remove the spring loaded insert first? It seems like there would be a good deal of dis-assembly in the trigger to get that piece out. What do you think? I just was hoping to get away from a total trigger assembly tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Got this back from Iowegan:
---- snip
Sorry for the delay ... I've been busy with yard work. You have to remove the cross pin that retains the latch plunger in the trigger guard assembly, then remove the plunger. With no plunger, the trigger guard assembly should drop right in the frame. I'm betting your's won't (common problem). Do a close inspection and see where your trigger guard is binding on the frame. Take a file ad dress the rear surface of the trigger guard assembly until it will go in the frame with minimal friction. Replace the latch plunger and cross pin and you should be good to go.
--- snip
Did just that and it worked like a charm. Still snug, but sooo much easier to install.
 
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