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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing out my full size Lett grips to the Compact version; this pistol is about 30 years old and the grip pin locator has never been removed. I'm assuming I can tap it out? Want to make sure there's no secret chant or something... I gave it a few somewhat tender taps and it didn't budge. I'll put a little penetrating oil on it and see how it goes. Any tips appreciated.
 

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I've done this, I have a beater 1989 production GP that I wanted to put old Hogues on, because I didn't like the two-piece Lett grips.........

Tapping it out will take you FOREVER, I spent a good two hours with a brass punch and a brass hammer beating on the grip pin.......

Finally, I took the gun to my parents house, used my Dads workbench, and found two socket heads, one smaller than the pin, and one larger. I put the smaller socket head on the pin, the larger one on the other side of it, and used a bench vise to "press" the pin out.

Unless you absolutely MUST remove that pin I would just leave it, Pachmayr grips will just fit right over the existing pin and new Letts can be "finessed" on without having to remove it, it has been done. If I ever get another older GP with the "fixed" grip pin that thing is staying in there. To put the Hogues on I had no choice but to remove the pin, in hindsight, for the effort expended, I should have just put Pach Grippers on it........but by the time I realized what a bear it was, I was already knee deep in the operation so I kept going with it.......
 

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vospertw, If you are going to use the newer style LETT grips, you will have to remove the grip locator pin. The aluminum pin is staked in the steel frame so if you look closely, you can probably find the stake marks. A small file and a few minutes effort on the stake marks will save you a lot of time and energy when you remove the pin.

ExArmy11b's technique with the sockets and a bench vise will work .... or use a big hammer and support the frame ... then give it some serious attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I have a vise and thought about blocking it up with some wood but the socket set-up is a much better idea. I noticed the new pin is definitely not the same length as the old pin. I have some thoughts of throwing the gun in the freezer for a few hours and letting the aluminum pin contract a bit.

Thanks for the tip on the stake marks.
 

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I am not familiar with the different pin lengths, but did learn the hard(ish) way that at least the SRH has had different diameters.

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/115909-grip-locator-diameter-change-srh-gp100.html

I mention this because you might want to pause and consider a bit more if your really want to replace the pin. Meaning, are you sure the new pin is the correct diameter and length to work?

If you remove the grips for cleaning, then I understand why you want the pin to push out easily with finger force.

BTW, ExArmy11b's socket advise is good. As I'm sure he knows, it is standard procedure for field replacement of driveshaft and axleshaft U-joints. I have done it more than once in the woods to repair my old Jeep, using a hammer. Works great, with zero damage to the joint. I recall now, that when I did this years ago, east of Lake Superior in Canada, I was more than 10 miles from the closest pavement. We did carry tools and spare parts, as standard procedure, and replaced the ignition coil on my friends Bronco on the same excursion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am not familiar with the different pin lengths, but did learn the hard(ish) way that at least the SRH has had different diameters.

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/115909-grip-locator-diameter-change-srh-gp100.html

I mention this because you might want to pause and consider a bit more if your really want to replace the pin. Meaning, are you sure the new pin is going to work.

If you remove the grips for cleaning, then I understand why you want the pin to push out easily with finger force.

BTW, ExArmy11b's socket advise is good. As I'm sure he knows, it is standard procedure for field replacement of driveshaft and axleshaft U-joints. I have done it more than once in the woods to repair my old Jeep, using a hammer. Works great, with zero damage to the joint.
I had done a quick feel check on them but your post made me pull out the calipers - both pins are 7/16". Thanks for the heads up though!
 

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I had done a quick feel check on them but your post made me pull out the calipers - both pins are 7/16". Thanks for the heads up though!
Sounds good. I happened to clean my SRH with these same compact grips earlier today, and as we discussed in the other strings, they really make the gun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good. I happened to clean my SRH with these same compact grips earlier today, and as we discussed in the other strings, they really make the gun!
foytfoyt - you were the one that sparked this, for sure. Coincidentally, I had emailed Grant Cunningham about a grip question and he said "you should try out these grips..." Guess we are in good company.
 

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foytfoyt - you were the one that sparked this, for sure. Coincidentally, I had emailed Grant Cunningham about a grip question and he said "you should try out these grips..." Guess we are in good company.
Ha! I was really just repeating what others here said first.

BTW, the competitive shooter at my range coaches me to use a high hold, and clamp the grip front to rear with my middle finger, and to a lesser extent the other fingers, but to float my thumb off of the grip so it applies zero pressure. Frankly, I have not studied proper shooting technique at all, but it seems to work for better accuracy. I find this hold to be easier to use with the compact grips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all! Vise trick worked like a charm. Took me longer to clean off my bench than actually press the pin.

foytfoyt - I'll give that a try, but kind of opposite from what I've heard for revolvers - usually clamping down with the strong thumb.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks foytfoyt. I know the compact grips won't fit regular Redhawk models, but do you know of another grip (Altamont, etc.) that would be comparable and compatible?
 

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I have no experience with the traditional Redhawk, but I'm sure we will hear shortly from those who know.

On my Smiths with somewhat similar grip frames, I personally always look for designs that leave the backstrap metal exposed, to keep trigger reach to a minimum. Of course, I am giving up the impact absorbing rubber of wrap around designs.

Ruger's SP/GP/SRH peg design is really excellent in this respect, although I know some people like the traditional frame appearance of the Redhawk and most S&W.
 

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I have a 6" 1/2 Lug Blue...but SS is my Holy Grail GP! My locator pin would not come out either. Mine had the old 2-Piece style grips. I ordered another one and when it arrived, I progressively drilled out the old one, problem solved...

Great looking gun!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a 6" 1/2 Lug Blue...but SS is my Holy Grail GP! My locator pin would not come out either. Mine had the old 2-Piece style grips. I ordered another one and when it arrived, I progressively drilled out the old one, problem solved...

Great looking gun!!
Thanks + aurora40. My dad gave me this around 87 or so; had been in the Marines for about a year at the time. He has a pretty good eye for pistols.
 
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