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Hello All,

I recently purchased a replacement 10/22 for one that was lost in a fire. With this new one, when I open the bolt, it feels much grittier and rougher than I remember. Does anybody know of a good way to make the bolt run a little smoother?

Also, I'm looking for something fairly simple here. I have no machining tools and zero experience with machining, leaving me with little confidence to make major changes or risk damaging my gun.
 

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My TD was that way until I cleaned it after its first range trip...I guess their was some fouling/manufacturing residue left in the action. Very smooth now. Possibility....
 

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if you didn't clean it before or after that range trip go ahead and do it. that's probably the main reason. there is definitely factory gunk in there. give it a thorough cleaning and oiling (wiping most of the oil off afterwards). should be better by the next trip, and better each trip after as it 'breaks in'. cleaning will also be easier each time as the parts loosen up a little. enjoy!
 

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Mine was a bit gritty from the factory as well. My guess is there is some crap in the gun from the factory and shipping and what not. I lubed it up with CLP and it feels fine now. Gun seemed to run better after I cleaned all the factory stuff out. Had a lot fewer jams.

Not to threadjack, but the blued finish on the guide rod on my 10/22 wore off. (gun is only about 5000 rounds or so old, tops. Had it for a few months) It used to be black, but now it's mostly silver. My guess is it just scraped off while cycling, but that makes me wonder why they would put that coating on it in the first place..

Is that normal?
 

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Mine was a bit gritty from the factory as well. My guess is there is some crap in the gun from the factory and shipping and what not. I lubed it up with CLP and it feels fine now. Gun seemed to run better after I cleaned all the factory stuff out. Had a lot fewer jams.

Not to threadjack, but the blued finish on the guide rod on my 10/22 wore off. (gun is only about 5000 rounds or so old, tops. Had it for a few months) It used to be black, but now it's mostly silver.

Is that normal?
Yes normal
 

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This is just my 2 cents but I always tune a gun when I first get it. Break it down, polish inside the receiver and the bolt at a minimum. You won't need any special tools, just some 800 grit wet sand paper and some polish. That is the minimum. There are a couple of videos on Youtube that will help explain it better. It will make a huge difference how the gun cycles. Alot of people just clean then oil...usually too much oil. After tuning you will need little to no oil which will reduce the amount of build up you get after firing. I hope this helps.
 

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+1 on the tune up.

A lot of material from processing the receiver is left in side, and needs to be taken out.

I use 600 then go to either 1000 or 1500grit paper then polish.

Same goes for the bolt.

Check for any nicks or burrs anywhere in the action meaning receiver or Bolt and remove them with the sand paper.

reshaping the rear of the bolt where the hammer strikes it for rest is another possible place.

Measure the firing pin protrusion to make sure you have .030 is another fix.

There are a few areas to tune up the 10/22, if you wanted to

Or best thing to is Dont worry about it, and, Just Shoot the Snot out of it it will break in on its own

have fun with it
 

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Mine was gritty too so I polished the inside of the receiver and the bolt with Flitz after every use.Shoot, clean,polish then lube. Really didn't seem to be making that much of a difference. I really didn't want to be using sandpaper and maybe polish something too much so I finally broke down and bought a Kidd machined bolt. The difference is night and day. I still polish the inside of my receiver after every use though, I just can't belive how rough and unfinished it looked coming from the factory.
 

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If it was in a fire , it could be dangerous to fire . Gun and parts are heat treated and did the fire soft up the steel and if so will it blow up on 1st round or 5000th round . 22LR is not bad but if there were like 9MM or 357 in fire send back to factory and have them check out or cut them up .
 

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The bolt has to come out for normal cleaning...it's simple and easy too...

Ruger has video on how to do it on YouTube...

IMO...the paint should be removed from the inside of the receiver where ever the bolt contacts it...I used Scotch-Brite...it works better for stuff like that than sand paper...easier to manipulate...

I tried Froglube paste on my receiver, bolt, recoil-spring rod last night for the first time and am very impressed...cheap and easy...incredibly slippery...I am very impressed with the stuff so far...
 

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The bolt has to come out for normal cleaning...it's simple and easy too...

Ruger has video on how to do it on YouTube...

IMO...the paint should be removed from the inside of the receiver where ever the bolt contacts it...I used Scotch-Brite...it works better for stuff like that than sand paper...easier to manipulate...

I tried Froglube paste on my receiver, bolt, recoil-spring rod last night for the first time and am very impressed...cheap and easy...incredibly slippery...I am very impressed with the stuff so far...
Zommy gun is spot on. You need to 'clean and polish' the inside of your receiver. I have found that polishing the bolt really does not make much of a difference other than cosmetic. Also, some Tetra gun grease, (very thin film) on the places that contact between the bolt and receiver works very well. the other product, other than Tetra, is Frog lube. Frog lube also works very well on the bolt and receiver slide.

I currently use Frog lube. Also, my initial polishing was using Zommy Gun's Scotch brite method. I followed this up with a final polish using Flitz and a very clean lint free rag.
 

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disassemble it, with 1200 grit clean all the overspray from inside the receiver..have you bolt radiused, and polished clean it well...dry lube the inside....put it back together and shoot it.....
 
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