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Discussion Starter #1
This is a follow on Report to a Day at the Range, with "THE JUDGE"

After a Day at the Range, and a "PILE OF EMPTY CASES" We Gunner's know what happens when We get Home...<:-((

Gun Cleaning "THE JUDGE" 101...

1) Remove the one allen screw in the bottom of the Grip (wrench provided), and slide it off (it don't get any easier than that)(ya want to keep the solvents off the Rubber right)...

2) Shooting Black Powder really Cokes them five Tubes up (1 1/4" of empty tube ahead of that 45LC)... I found the 45 cal. Brass Brush to be useless in them Tubes... Here is what works, a 50 cal Brass Brush being pushed straight through, and straight back out the Tubes (lube tubes with WD40)...

3) Swab them Tubes out... We all know cleaning Patches are a Joke... what works best is wadding up a piece of Paper towels and pushing them through with your Rod (Bounty or VIVA Paper towels are the best)...

4) Detailing the Over Blast from the inner frame rail, and around the Barrel Condensing Cone... I use a little Soldering Brass Brush from the Hardware Dept. and I also have a Hoppe's Gun Cleaning Brush Double Ended Bronze brush that works vary good...

5) Now for the Rinse... We all know what works best... WD40... always did~always will... Hose that Babe down...

6) Now wipe that Gun down... and Swab out them Tubes one more time... Put that Grip Back on...

7) A Special NOTE to Gunner's like Myself that have a Polished Stainless Steel Gun... OK, lets put the finishing touch on that GUN... I'm talking Stainless Steel Guns Here...!!! Not Nickel or Chrome...!!! We Gunner's with Stainless Steel Guns, can Polish The Dog Sheet out of our GUNS WITHOUT FEAR of Rubbing Through the Finish... We know what works Best... BRASSO... We can RUB to our hearts content... And the Gun Just Keeps Getting Shinier...<:)) Who cares if it gets into the Mechanism (working parts)... That BRASSO just Polishes and Lubes them parts up, and gives you a Smoother working action, just like you would pay a Smith for... Now that's when I put My Grip back on...<:))

8) Now I know this should take about Ten Minutes (Timed with NASCAR Clocks)... But I know if your like Me, you'll make Gun Cleaning last about a half an hour...(that includes Fondling Time)...<:))
 

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Now I've learned something here...never used Brasso on stainless but I'm off to buy some...thanks for the tip...you already know what WD40 does in primers, I'm sure....we had a rookie snap six times at a burglar one night 'cause he didn't finish drying his gun out and it got into his shells...I think he probably slung the cylinder out and sprayed the whole thing, shells and all, and slammed it shut and went to work...lots of rookies haven't got a clue........surprised they don't drink the stuff....
 

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sheepdog, don't like brasso myself. Too gritty, get some flitz, simichrome, or what I use - MAAS polish. Easy to find at wallyworld or most grocery stores in their household cleaners section. It's an all purpose metal polish, with a finer grit.
 

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Personally I keep WD-40 as far from my firearms as possible. It's not a lubricant. It was designed to displace water, which it does well, but as a lube it evaporates and leaves a nasty sludge behind. I've become a big fan of BreakFree CLP and Butch's Bore Shine. Don't try using Butch's inside like you can with Hoppes or BreakFree. The fumes will gag you and if your wife is like mine you will be very unpopular until you manage to air out the kitchen. : )

The two cheap alternatives that are supposed to be excellent are brake cleaner (carbon cleaner is carbon cleaner) for cleaning and transmission fluid as a lubricant.

Great article about lubricants and why not to use WD-40 by Grant Cunningham
All You Ever Needed to Know About Lubricants, but were Too Bored to Askhttp://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

BTW. The more I see about that Judge the more I like it. If my previous experience with Taurus had been more positive I'd probably already have bought one. Maybe Ruger will pick up on the idea.

Kind regards,
Wuchak
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SheepDog,... Your Right about Stainless Gun Frames Being made out of "Low Grade 304 Stainless Steel" which has Impurities and Porosity like you say... (304 is the exact same Grade of Stainless that's used to make them Stainless Steel exhaust pipes on new cars)(because of the Nickel, they will Patina just like my Chinese low grade Stainless Steel BBQ Grill)... WD-40 them Stainless Guns Gunner's, and Keep them GUN's in the house and not outside by the grill, and they will shine as long as you own them...<:))
And like SheepDog said, or the old saying goes... "Keep Your Powder Dry" Them Primmer's are not Sealed like a Military Spec. Rounds... Keep them Penetrating Gun cleaners off that AMMO...<:))

I like simichrome... the Rouge in it is good for soft metals... I like it for Aluminum side covers on Motor cycle's...

WD40...Sluge...never seen any in 30 years...??? I buy it in a Gallon Can...<:))

Brasso,... I put a Mirror Shine on my Army Brass Belt Buckle Every Day... Polish of Champions...<:))

Lubrication becomes a issue with Guns with High Cycle Rates...!!!
http://tinyurl.com/2arvfp

Wheel Guns see vary little Cyclic ware because not much is happening when the Trigger is pulled...

1911 style Guns on the other hand, experience a lot of Parts Thrashing, and will see a lot of ware if not Lubed Up... I use Rem-DriLube... Good to have that in the Box when you go to the Range, if your shooting any autoloader... I always give my 1911 LASERAIM's slide a blast if shooting more than a box of 50...

One other note: Stainless Guns see only 1/3 the ware of a Steel Guns (its all that Nickel and Chrome that makes it Stainless)(that's why its so Tuff) An example of that... Is it takes only 200 rounds to break in a Steel Barrel, and 500 for a Stainless Barrel... Stainless Steel is damn near a Bearing Material like Bronze...

My Favorite... Go ahead and give that Gun a Blast of Rem-DriLube and Sleep Easy,,,
Remington Rem-DriLube
http://tinyurl.com/2znc2l

Teflon base provides a tough, non-congealing film without the residue of dry graphite lubes. Keeps firearms functioning dependably to -40°F. Available in an easy-to-use 4-oz. aerosol can.
 

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WD40 is a water displacer, not lubricant so it can't substitute; but useful for initial cleaning, or sprayed in a bag it works pretty good for stainless steel or blued guns as an additional preservative against corrosion. Yes, stainless steel may eventually corrode as well - have seen little black/brown dots turned out to deep caverns in time. And yes, keep WD40 out of ammo and high speed affected parts. Besides, it's just a perfect solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WD-40
I been hosing (Lubricating) Guns down with it for 30 years... What I liked about it is that it never attacked Factory Finishes on Gun Stocks...

Read the True Specs...
LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
http://tinyurl.com/2opuuv

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A lot of good metallurgy info and lube tips here. I am a fan of anything with Teflon in it for moving parts. Does wonders for the old pumps.
 

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Who're we kidding-at our age, it takes cortisone to keep most of our parts moving....
 

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I ain't said nary nuttin' 'bout low grade stainless and patina and such...not me...don't know where that came from...now the keep your powder(and primers) dry part---dat's me!!!

P.S. and also...where do I get the Simichrome??? Seems rouge might deep clean powder burns and rust under the grips....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SheepDog,...

Go to any Motorcycle Shop to get Simichrome... Brasso can be had at any Walmart that has Food, and located in the Cleaning Supplys... TarnX is a Vary Vary lite acid for Tarnish removal, and works to remove surface rust vary slowly (vary non aggressive)...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some Info and some things to Add to your Judge KIT...

I will tell you of the thing I have found out owning "The Judge"...
First~ This is something that would only crop up at the Range, and not in a Home Defense situation...
when shooting 45LC's Black powder, and then switching to .410 shot gun shells you would find some sticking dropping them in the Chamber because there is an inch of chamber ahead of that 45 Bullet that gets all gunked up with Black Powder residue... I use a 50cal brush on a 6" pistol rod to Brush out them chambers before loading up them Shot Gun Shells...

Also one other NOTE: Only use Winchester ShotGun Shells because, the Remingtons have ribed plastic, letting to much Blow back Leakage down the Chamber...<:-((

Ammunition~this where I buy my OOO Buck... Remember No Slugs in this Gun...!!! The Bore is .450 and a Slug is .360... It will rattle down the Barrel...!!! Your .45 cal is your SLUG...<:))
http://www.chestnutridge.com/products/ammo.asp

A must have for practicing in the Kitchen~A-ZOOM .45 COLT METAL SNAP CAP 6 PER PACK
http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?prod=16124
KLEEN BORE BRASS JAG .44/.45/.50 CALIBER
http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?search=JAG231&submit.x=7&submit.y=11
Needed for Brushing the Cylinder Chamber (also take this to the Range with you)~Knight .50 Caliber Bore Brush, Brass
http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?prod=900090
Nylon~HOPPES UTILITY BRUSHMATERIAL: NYLON OTHER FEATURES: BRUSHES ARE NON-BREAKABLE AND CAN DIG OUT DIRT WITHOUT SCRATCHING METAL.
http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?prod=H1380

Stainless Steel Guns Only:
Brass~HOPPES UTILITY BRUSH~I use this brush on the inside of my Stainless Frame around the Forcing Cone, and back by the firing pin area, and front & back of the cylinder, because it is not polished and has no finish to scratch up... Only works on Stainless Guns that don't have some sort of Finish on them...
http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?prod=H1380P
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Snuffy,...
I like this Cleaning Kit for my Hand Guns...<:)) I have one for each of my Hand Guns, and keep just the pieces I need for each Gun inside it... This also works good to take a smaller Brush, and give it a little Banana Bend to clean the Forcing Cone...<:))
And I highly recommend you get Solid Brass Jags for your guns... Works the best for Patching (scrubbing) them Barrels out... (forces them patches into the rifling) I personally find VIVA or Bounty paper towels making a two layer towel patch with a JAG works Great...

WalMart Store: $5.00
Gunmaster 8 Piece Compact Universal Pistol Cleaning Kit.
•For 22-45 Caliber Pistols.
•Includes 2 piece solid brass rod, brass brushes (22, 40, 45 and
9mm), solid brass slotted tip, and handle.
•4 Inch long handle coverts into a handy carrying case for easy and
compact storage.
http://i4.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/6e/1f/f4_1_b.JPG
http://www.letargets.com/html/popups3/dac_hgc2459.jpg

Also,...if you have a old 20 or 16Ga. Brush that your not using, you can make that into a 1/2" brush by taking it over to the grinder, and working it down to a 1/2" Chamber Brush... That works just as good as buying one...<:)) Everybody ends up with extra shotgun Brushes when buying one of them All-In-One, General Purpose Cleaning Kits...<:))
 

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good idea, I 'll have to try that.
 

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Yeah. My local Doctor says Iv'e got a metabolism of steel. Says to stay shy of water, I might rust. Better to keep the old system well oiled!

My old muzzle loaders like a good dose of boiling water and a strong degreaser after a day of smoking. So does the the rest of the artillery. Dry them down well, soak in metal treatment oil additive, (it's expensive but so are my guns) and wipe down with Ballistol, or spray with Eezox if youv'e got it!
 

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Chokes

I purchased a new Red Label a few months ago. It has been a long while since I've purchased a new 12 Gauge and in fact my first ever with removable chokes. I haven't had the chance to use it yet but was wondering about cleaning a gun with removable chokes. This is probably a stupid question but when you clean the bore do you leave the chokes in or take them out? I'm guessing that cleaning the bore with them out would mess up the threads.

Ox

:confused:
 
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