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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings, all. I just picked up my first rifle, a Ruger 10/22 LR. I took it to the range the next day and was very pleased.

I've been scouring this site and a few others for tips, and the amount of customization available is incredible. It really made me stop and ask, "What is the purpose of this rifle?"

Well, my goal is to have a compact, lightweight rifle that will fit in my backpack for wilderness hiking/hunting. To that end, I've decided on the Butler Creek black folding stock. I've also made the following purchases and welcome any and all advice:

Paddle mag release
Auto bolt release
Sharp claw extractor and spring assembly

Purchases next month:

1. Stainless steel firing pin

2. Bolt buffer

3. Larger charging handle

4. BSA Sweet 3-9x40 scope - which scope rings and rail are best? Is there any benefit to having a red dot sight instead?

5. New barrel - 16.5"? In keeping with the compact theme, how short can I go? Also, does barrel length affect velocity/accuracy? Are there any benefits to having a threaded barrel tip?

6. Either a slip-on or threaded flash hider, depending on which barrel I choose - mostly from a cosmetic standpoint. ;)

7. Ruger BX-25 magazines

8. CCI Velocitor or Stinger ammunition - there seems to be a concensus on these being ideal for small game hunting. Are there any others to consider? Also, what are "subsonic rounds"? What is the benefit of having ammunition that is presumably slower?

I can't thank you all enough for reading and already providing a great deal of insight! This forum has been a goldmine and I appreciate it very much.
 

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These are my opinions...

Greetings, all. I just picked up my first rifle, a Ruger 10/22 LR. I took it to the range the next day and was very pleased.

I've been scouring this site and a few others for tips, and the amount of customization available is incredible. It really made me stop and ask, "What is the purpose of this rifle?"

Well, my goal is to have a compact, lightweight rifle that will fit in my backpack for wilderness hiking/hunting. To that end, I've decided on the Butler Creek black folding stock. I've also made the following purchases and welcome any and all advice:

Paddle mag release I have a paddle release I bought and didn't like a bit...got a lever release and love it to death...
Auto bolt release This is a must have/do
Sharp claw extractor and spring assembly I had extractor problems new from factory...got the sharp claw...it's the best $12 I ever spent on a gun...

Purchases next month:

1. Stainless steel firing pin I would rather have a target hammer and extra power hammer spring...

2. Bolt buffer I have one...no big deal with or w/o...

3. Larger charging handle not for me...prefer to have less sticking out to catch on etc...stock is fine for me...others may disagree...

4. BSA Sweet 3-9x40 scope - which scope rings and rail are best? Is there any benefit to having a red dot sight instead? Others will disagree but I would choose a smaller scope for what you are wanting...a red dot might be a good choice given the application but not so good for pin point accuracy and not good for longer shots...

5. New barrel - 16.5"? In keeping with the compact theme, how short can I go? Also, does barrel length affect velocity/accuracy? Are there any benefits to having a threaded barrel tip? The factory compact barrel can be had as a new take off but they are rare...longer/heavier barrels are more accurate beyond 50 yards...the 16" is the shortest allowed...aluminum barrels are available that are half the weight...I have one...a .920 diameter aluminum bull barrel with a small scope mounted as low as possible will be in line with what your purpose is...

6. Either a slip-on or threaded flash hider, depending on which barrel I choose. Do you really need one...if not what are you getting for the money...it will make the barrel longer and heavier...

7. Ruger BX-25 magazines lots of peeps love the bx but I don't...I had one it's gone now...the Tactical Inc is much better imo...I have one...will get another...I would make having lots of factory 10s a higher priority over bananas...

8. CCI Velecitor or Stinger ammunition - there seems to be a concensus on these being ideal for small game hunting. Are there any others to consider? Also, what are "subsonic rounds"? What is the benefit of having ammunition that is presumably slower? Stingers and Velocitors are expensive and not going to do a thing for you imo...you are better off using CCI mini-mags which are high velocity and extremely reliable and consistent which translates into better accuracy...try some CCI Standard Velocity which are same price and sub-sonic and compare them...accuracy is more important than velocity...I have had best luck with high velocity so far...

I can't thank you all enough for reading and already providing a great deal of insight! This forum has been a goldmine and I appreciate it very much.
IMO...if you want to hit small targets at 100 yards with your 10/22 you need a "target" or "silhouette" stock with excellent cheek rest...a larger than 9 power scope...something more like a 4-16x44mm with AO and a good quality one...and either a re-chambered factory barrel or a long/heavy steel bull barrel...

You could get a 20" aluminum barrel that will give you better accuracy at 100 yards and still be light but not short...

For what you describe I would go for a 16" aluminum barrel and good quality 1-4 scope mounted on Weaver Multi-slot tip off rail and Weaver Low rings...

If you want to have iron sight AND red dot instead of scope check out the Nodak Peep/rail/post combo for either factory barrel or bull barrel...

I just keep my hunting to 60 yards or less with a light weight gun and folding stock...but make it accurate as possible with aluminum bull barrel and improved trigger....

You can't go wrong with the Kidd trigger kit for $90...
 

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If you are set on having a 40mm objective scope and want details about what rings/rails will work there are pics and parts links in this thread you might find useful...

http://rugerforum.net/optics/59538-low_lower_lowest.html?

I can tell you right now if I were starting over from scratch and especially with a folding stock or other 'feather weight' stock I would get the following...prices are ball park and rounded up for shipping etc...now this is just me I am not telling you what to get or do...I have a Fajen silhouette stock that I customized...a variety of trigger parts and some work myself...a Tactical Solutions 16" aluminum barrel...a Leupold 2-7x28mm scope mounted on the Weaver T0-9 rail with Weaver Low Rings...it is heavier than what you would want but is on the light side with short barrel and shorter than factory LOP at just under 13"...

Good quality 1-4 scope... $150 to $250

Mounted on Weaver multi-slot rail with Weaver Low rings... $40 for both...

Whistle Pig 17" compensated aluminum barrel... $200

Kidd trigger kit... $100

Lever magazine release... $40

Then I would go to Walmart and get 1600 rounds of CCI Mini-mags in 40gr cprn...special deal at Walmart in a plastic ammo box... $100
 

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This picture shows the multi-slot rail which I like a lot but is higher than the TO-9 rail which is on it now...you can hardly see the rail but the multi-slot is .1" higher...





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With your folding stock and a scope if you don't mount the scope as low as possible you will have a hard time getting the cheek rest to be what it should be....

So keep that in mind when making decisions now...

Watch this video it is very helpful...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COoXVpGfXQE
 

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"Well, my goal is to have a compact, lightweight rifle that will fit in my backpack for wilderness hiking/hunting."

I'm confused. IMHO the best solution would be to get a 10/22 Takedown and put a scope on it.

All this other stuff just seems like excuses to customize a 10/22. Just my $.02 worth.
 

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When you are deciding what scope and rings/rail to but on your folding stock 10/22 be sure and pay attention to the relationship between LOP...heel drop...and eye level...

For example...for a given length of pull...if you lower the eye level and don't have much heel drop it will be harder to get the butt positioned correctly...

A big factory in my choice of stocks was the heel drop and pistol grip size/position/angle...those are harder to modify than the cheek rest...

Most of the stocks on the market have far too little heel drop...

With a short heel drop you need a longer length of pull to get positioned for a given eye level...

So if your stock has little (or not enough for you) heel drop and you have a low mounted scope or iron sights you need a longer length of pull...

If the LOP is fixed or has very little adjustment...and very little heel drop...higher eye level is needed...and a corresponding much higher cheek rest...

Originally when I got the DSP 10/22 I liked it for looks of course but it also had the most heel drop of the stocks of the 1022s in the store...we did not have the internet back then...The DSP was much easier for me to get sighted with factory iron sights with proper butt/shoulder position due to long length of pull AND a lot of heel drop...even then taller Iron sights were a must have for me...and the cheek rest was set for the factory iron sights...nowhere near good enough for a 40mm scope...

To me the reason for low mount on the scope is for more compact fit and easier to get the cheek rest right...but does require the correct length of pull and heel drop combination to be comfortable to aim/fire...

Therefore is is best to analyze all that prior to busting out money for a scope and/or stock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you, ZommyGun! I'm looking for those rails and rings now. As for the flash tip, it was purely cosmetic. I can see how owners can spend a fortune on these things - the possibilities seem endless.

What is the benefit of that Kidd trigger?

Ditto1958, I'm brand new to this and haven't the slightest clue what I'm doing. ;) I don't know what a Takedown is, but I'll look into that, too. All of this isn't so much excuses to customize as it is an opportunity to learn. I knew absolutely nothing days ago, but thanks to this forum the terminology and whatnot is no longer lost on me entirely. Plus, I'm finding that this is just fun. I guess it might seem a little weird to a long timer, but I liken it to taking my boys to the pool: They don't fiddle around on the steps in the shallow end, they cannonball right into the deep end.
 

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I am still considering getting a knox axiom stock for mine and adding a butt plate extension to it...and using it with iron sights for plinking at 60 yards and less...

Not impressed too much with any of the tactical or folding stocks over all and least of all the axiom but it is extremely light weight...and adjustable LOP...plus it can be converted to bump fire...when you add it all up it adds another dimension to the same gun...
 

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Thank you, ZommyGun! I'm looking for those rails and rings now. As for the flash tip, it was purely cosmetic. I can see how owners can spend a fortune on these things - the possibilities seem endless.

What is the benefit of that Kidd trigger?
The links to those rails and rings is in that thread low...lower

Take your time and analyze the whole thing prior to buying anything...I am not suggesting you do what I do just helping you find information you are looking for... :D

The Kidd trigger kit for $90 will give you a lighter and better trigger pull...

I was unaware of that particular kit when I did mine but was aware of their complete assemblies which I am sure are quite good but not really for me...

I modified mine piece-meal...the Kidd kit has all the same stuff in one package...some people say it's the best brand...I wouldn't know...but for the money it is a good way to get straight to the meat w/o delay and at a fair price...

Mine has Power Custom adjustable sear...a Volquartsen target hammer/spring...and I drilled and tapped my factory trigger for the over travel stop...and that "package" of parts from Kidd does all that for you at once...

I spent about the same amount of $$$ total and still had a bit of custom work to do...but mine is pretty decent...I like it a lot compared to factory...pull is about half which is where I like it... 3-4lbs... any lighter should be reserved for a 'target' rifle imo...
 

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Ryan Cleckner's advice seems very simple and it tends to go in one ear and out the other...but it is far more important and harder to achieve than most people think...for example...just try the technique with the gun as it came from the factory right now...is your eye lined up with the sights perfectly without moving using his method...probably not...

Take the time to analyze the whole picture as to exactly where you want to end up in detail now... :)
 

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The cheek rest wrapped onto this stock is where I start using Cleckner's method to get the height right...this picture doesn't show it perfect...it is being worked on in the photo not done like the Fajen stock above but it will be...and it will be for done specifically for Iron sights set lower than the scope and the reason is the factory stock has 1" longer LOP...but less heel drop than the fajen...

And most importantly...those are Leupold Rifleman Low rings modified to bolt directly to the receiver as low as possible...approximately the same eye level as my rail mounted iron sights...

That is the 16" .920 aluminum bull barrel in the modified DSP stock...

Even with the lowest possible a scope can be mounted on this gun the stock still needs a raised cheek rest to be right...with the cheek rest added there is no way in hell you could use the factory iron sights...



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This picture shows the Rifleman Low rings on the TO-9 rail before I modified them to sit directly on the receiver as above picture shows...it needs a large cheek rest added to be right...which is what I will do later...it will be similar but a lot nicer done than the one I made for the fajen stock shown above post



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The Rifleman Low rings are very nice...I like them a lot...you can't beat the price...they are higher than the Weaver Low by a good bit...and the Weavers on/off is super easy the Rifleman is not...

All things considered I like the Weaver rings best for easy on-off and lowest mounting from low cost off the shelf parts...

A nickel or quarter is what works perfect for the thumb-nuts...they are fast and easy for on/off and I swap out my scope for iron sights all the time...very handy...and very low...shown on the multi-slot rail which is very nice rail and being able to move the rings around is a great option to have...you don't get that with the TO-9 rail...the TO-9 rail is lower and has both width weaver rails in one part...so overall it works better for me as the peep sight I have mounts on the smaller rail...



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This shows the Williams WGRS-54 peep sight mounted on the same Weaver T0-9 rail with a homemade front sight for the bull barrel...

The point is that particular peep sight would not mount on the multi slot or any picatinny rail...a big factor in my sticking with the lower TO-9 rail over the multi-slot rail...

The cheek rest and but plate were work in progress when this pic was taken...it was actually taken for notes purposes to look at dimensions when parts where not installed...as are most of the pics I take that wind up being posted later... :)



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I had a very hard time sorting all this crap out and my goals were similar to yours so I hope it helps you get the ideas and parts you need to be happy with your set up and not have to much trial and error although that can never be eliminated...even if you went out and bought a take down you would still want a lighter and more ergo rifle and would wind up doing stuff to it...

A factory steel tapered barrel in 18" weighs 28.5 oz...

Same barrel in 16" weighs over 25 oz...

The TacSol 16" aluminum barrel weighs 14.2 oz...

Your folding stock weighs considerably less than a take down stock...

I am not knocking a take down...it just has no appeal for me at all...

A knox axiom stock weighs 1.2 lbs...the factory carbine stocks weigh approximately 2.5 lbs...

My gun is older with aluminum trigger group and weighs 7 oz... I am told the new plastic ones are 4 oz...

It is possible to have an extremely light 10/22 and short when assembled with either a folding stock or one with a lot of LOP adjustment ...with small but good scope that is very accurate out to 60 yards...not super cheap...but not crazy cost for what you get either...
 

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One last thing to add...

When I first started to modify mine (very recently) I was like you considering a 16" factory barrel...

At the time Shooter's Discount had one for $65...

You can also send yours to be cut down, threaded, re-chambered if you want to but IMO the money is better spend on an aluminum bull barrel...

https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/que-barrel-work
 

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I'd recommend buying the BX-25s sooner rather than later. Something tells me that if -- IF -- our idiot leaders in Washington decide to come after firearms again, "high capacity" magazines will be among the first items to go.
 
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