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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Mini-14 has proud steel in a ring around the firing pin hole. It creates a ring-shaped mark about 80% of the way around in a circle on the primers as it chambers a round and locks up. I can visually see the proud steel on the bolt face. It looks almost like the firing pin holes are stamped/punched from the inside, in order to form them, though I can't imagine that's how they're manufactured. I have not had that cause a slam-fire to date, but I don't care for the scoring/punching of the primers, particularly since it's quite a 'sharp' edge and so it's almost more like a ring-shaped 'cut' than just an indent on the primer.

Have any of you had this come up, or otherwise tried to make your bolt face flat? If so, how did you go about it? I had hoped to just stone, or file and stone, the bolt face, but I really can't get in there very well to do that. I do not have a lathe or mill, so I need hand-tool type of fix. Suggestions?
 

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It can be done with a small stone, or dremel. You just have to go slow, You need to completely dissemble the bolt , remove the firing pin and extractor so you dont scuff anything up and go slow. Myself , I would us a small round stone . You can always send it back to Ruger, May be you will get lucky and get a new bolt, if you do send it in request a new firing pin for a spare. Rugers C/S is really good.
 

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Don't dremel it I had not had this issue but to remove any possible failure to fires I did stone the face of the bolt by hand. You don't have to take apart the bolt to do it since the firing pin has no spring retention on it. Just let gravity allow the firing pin to fall all the way to the rear position and stone the surface of it around the hole with an Arkansas like stone, Home Depot sells them. It is better to disassemble the bolt before hand as Missfire51 said and it is not too hard. You have to remove the plunger underneath the extractor first and the easiest way to do it is with a very tiny flat head screw driver. Once that is removed, the spring come out then the extractor. The firing pin will fall free after that. To put it back together, firing pin first, extractor, plunger spring, then plunger. Take your time putting the plunger back in as it took me numerous tries to get it seated right. However, like I wrote, since the firing pin has no spring to build tension, you can just let it fall rear word and stone it without shortening the pin. The problem is with Ruger not cleaning the face of the bolt before shipping it out. I have heard this issue with a few Mini 30s so even if you do get a new bolt from Rugger it may still have the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks,everyone.
 
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