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Hi folks,
I have a single six that was basically new until today. I was shooting it from a rest and have put some marks in the stainless finish of the grip frame. What can I use to remove the marks and make it look new again?
 

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Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're concerned about such marks shooting it is kinda gonna really depress you.
 

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Mothers mag polish will take off superficial scratches but will polish to a high gloss. If the scratches are deeper then use 400 grit wet sandpaper followed by 600 and 800 then finish with mothers mag.
 

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SS finish

Whatever you do.....

DO NOT repeat NOT USE STEEL WOOL!

Had a used SS Security Six years ago that some one took regular steel wool to. Next week, it had little rememberances of steel wool rust worms.

Now copper wool-IF not copper washed steel wool and stainless steel wool are differnet stories.

Good luck, Paul
 

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I reconditioned my used SBHH with gray and maroon scotchbrite scuffing pads. In my understanding, Ruger uses the gray one on their sts guns. However, when the scratches are deeper, I find the maroon ones do better and they remove scratches faster.

My SBHH although almost 30 yrs old, looks like brand new now after this treatment.

You don't even have to buy the scotchbrite brand. I just used the brand Mirka Mirlon (this was all they had in the auto body supplies shop that I visited), and this worked wonderfully.
 

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I reconditioned my used SBHH with gray and maroon scotchbrite scuffing pads. In my understanding, Ruger uses the gray one on their sts guns. However, when the scratches are deeper, I find the maroon ones do better and they remove scratches faster.

My SBHH although almost 30 yrs old, looks like brand new now after this treatment.

You don't even have to buy the scotchbrite brand. I just used the brand Mirka Mirlon (this was all they had in the auto body supplies shop that I visited), and this worked wonderfully.
Do you use Flitz with the pad or just alone? I tried the Flitz alone and it didn't work on some on my new to me 07 SS GP, got a few I sure would like to remove.
 

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No flitz needed. I use the scuffing pads completely dry. You will be very surprised at the results. Cut your pads into small squares (1-1.5") and use a back forth motion in the direction of the original grain.

After you are done, make sure you wipe your gun carefully and thoroughly. You don't want the small abrasive fibers to stay on the metal and leave other scratches against the grain you have established.

I completely reconditioned my gun last week and I was smiling all the way as I was doing it. Don't use the green scotchbrite. Stay with the gray and/or maroon.

Good luck!
 

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Don't own any SS yet but good info to know. Thanks.
 

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G.Freeman: Gottal love how easy stainless is - thats pretty.
Used beat up stainless guns are a great buy for an easy restoration project.

Instead of scotchbrite by hand, you can use these drill motor scotchbrite balls from harbor freight for really straight patterns like the factory. I clamp the gun butt in the vise (grip removed) and go at it. USE LIGHT CONSISTENT PRESSURE. If you bear down, even scotchbrite can dig in and give funny looking bright spots.

Coarse
4" 80 Grit Coarse Grade Abrasive Ball

Fine
4" 400 Grit Fine Grade Abrasive Ball


I find some factory guns use two passes about 30 degrees apart for a slight cross hatch (Dan Wesson revolvers). Others use single direction only (1911 style slides). These things make very fast work of it. Its the only way I know at home to create extremely straight brush marks (just hold the angle consistent as you make passes).

If you find the top of these balls putting patterns where you dont want them when trying to get into corners, use masking tape OR you can dissasemble the ball and remove a few layers on the end to create a wheel shape instead of a ball shape. I love these things. Crazy usefull for all sorts of stuff and $9 each. Ohhh almost forgot, dont contaminate it on plain steel before using on stainless.
 
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