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I clean my guns after every range trip. Went to the range last week. I cleaned my 1911 45 after 150 rounds, my Uberti Cattleman & Outlaw 100 rounds each ,SR22 100 rounds. My Interarms Virginian Dragoon 100 rounds which has over 60,000 rounds through it. All handloads and still working on loads from 2018. I am old school, a clean gun last longer and shoots better than a dirty one. But it's JMHO.
That's pretty much what I'd write. Heck, I'll even clean a gun if I fire a single round through it. I always figure that any carbon, even in a well-lubed weapon, increases wear on the parts. Keeping that cleaned off makes for a longer service life.
 

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If Johnny has an AR and two straight clips. How many rounds can he fire and still do a tactical reload?
One straight clip holds 20 rounds. Upon chambering a round from a full straight clip, 19 remain in the straight clip. A tactical reload requires that the magazine be changed before bolt/slide lock, so after firing 18 rounds, one round will be left in the magazine. Therefore, Johnny can fire up to 18 rounds and still do a tactical reload.
 

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🙄 @Redhawk100 , if it was a hand grenade you might have killed it.

19. You forget he chambered a round, then shot 18 of the 19 left.
Yeah, but if he'd fired the 19th round, the magazine would have been empty. You have to leave at least a round in the magazine so it can be reinserted if the second one gets emptied. Yeah, it's probably better to have about half the mag left for a tactical reload, but for a math question, one left is as little as you could have remaining.
 

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@Redhawk100 …..Johnny fires the chambered round first. Then 18 of the 19 rounds left in the clip. That’s 18 + 1 leaving 1 for his tactical reload.
Yeah, that's what I said. He chambers the first one, fires 18--that leaves one in the chamber and one in the magazine. You have to leave at least one in the magazine for it to be a tactical reload. And in order to have one left in the magazine, one must be left in the chamber, too. That's a total of 18 rounds fired. Ta-daaaa!🎼
 

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@firescout

If you forgoe cleaning the exterior of your car, I agree. But some of us wash the salt of our car’s chassis after each winter usage. I go as far as to spray the chassis of my SUV with ACF 50 to prevent corrosion. This I see a purpose for.

Oil. Meh. My SUV gets synthetic. There is absolutely no technical or mechanical reason to change engine oil twice, or even once a year. I change it every 2-3 years when I hit 10,000 miles on the oil. I base
this on oil testing by Blackstone.

There is nothing wrong with either approach. Clean or run them dirty. Nothing will catch on fire.
I've run synthetic in my truck since day whatever it was I got my first oil change. Every 5000-7000 miles, it gets changed, and the engine is still good to go at over 120,000 miles knock on wood. I want that truck for at least another 10 years. Heck, I might even just put a new engine into it when this one goes kaput around 300K, just because I don't want the remote shut-off feature that's going to probably be mandated in a year or two, based on what I've been hearing.
 

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@Redhawk100

A tactical reload is not reloading with one left in the clip. It is reloading with a hot gun, that only needs a round in the chamber. The clip can be empty.
I had a feeling you were going to say that. That's one very legitimate philosophy about tactical reloads. Another philosophy is that a tactical reload is executed a bit more quickly--when there's a break in the action, and you want to slip in the fresh magazine while keeping the old one to reinsert if the new one goes dry. Ideally, you would have about half of the magazine still filled when you execute it, but for the purposes of a math problem, you go all the way to the lowest possible number remaining in the magazine, which is one.

Sorry; I had a flashback to a class I took at the beginning of the year. We did so many reps that I subconsciously retained my ejected magazine and replaced it in the mag pouch when I should have done a hasty reload during the class. Training scars...
 

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@Redhawk100

I am a huge synthetic oil fan. I have had several Toyotas go over 300,000 miles using it. I had 2 Tacomas that went to around 450,000 miles.

The only thing dumber than the stoplight shutoff systems is Chevrolets V-8s, with the 4/6/8 cylinder deactivation. I have done two deletes now on the Chevys. The auto stop feature can be turned off with a scan tool…for now anyway.
I never bought into that cylinder shut-off system. It seems like it would invite uneven wear on the engine components. If you think about it, when all cylinders are firing, less gas is needed because the engine requires less to be injected with each intake stroke to maintain a given cruising speed, while more would need to be injected into each cylinder if fewer cylinders were used to maintain a given cruising speed. Sure, there might be a speed curve along which those fewer cylinders would maintain the speed more efficiently, but I'll bet that that part of the curve is a LOT smaller than the part of the curve along which all cylinders firing would be more efficient.

I'm on my first Nissan, right now, and it's been a great truck. The Japanese really know how to build them.
 

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Nissan makes a good product, especially the Frontier. Beware of the CVTs they use. I know how to work on Toyotas though from my previous career, and own 3.

The Chevy cylinder deactivation systems are involved in a class action law suit now. The hydraulic lifters sieze or rotate in their bores on the deactivated cylinders and can take out the entire engine. Then it’s long block time. Currently there are good kits to restore the crap they are putting out to LS V8 quality.

U
Yeah, the Frontier is what I have. I thought the 5-speed auto was something amazing after having had a four-speed auto in the royal heap of garbage Silverado that preceded it. Now, the new Frontier comes with an 8 or 9-speed automatic. My five-speed and engine combo still sometimes break traction going into third when I really step on it going up an on ramp onto the freeway.

As for CVTs, I'd never get a truck with one of those. They might be fine for small cars, but not in a truck. And as you already mentioned, different manufacturers have varying quality of CVTs. I would only have a car with one if the manufacturer had a track record of success with it, first.
 

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@Redhawk100

My old 4Runner is a 4/auto. A 5/auto would be perfect. More gears than 5 is not necessary unless you want to squeeze another half mpg out of an engine. The more gears, the more potential issues.
And speaking of potential issues, it sure would be nice if manuals were still a ready option. If you want to eliminate issues, those are really the way to go. Sure, there's some clutch tightening that's needed from time to time, but that's minor compared to what can go wrong with autos. And when it comes to going downhill in long, steep stretches, you don't have to keep pumping the breaks.
 

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Corndog brought up a good point about first shot accuracy versus firing a couple fouling shots. I've found pretty much the same ..... my POI didn't change radically .... maybe a couple MOA at the most with my Rem 700s. I have a custom 7x57 Mauser that has a highly polished bore. When I shoot it with a clean bore, it hits the bullseye dead nuts and continues to hit dead nuts in subsequent shots. If I don't clean the bore after a range session, my first few shots will be a couple MOA off. I like the first shot to be dead nuts, so I give the bore a good scrubbing after each range session.
I have a Mosin Nagant for which I actually have to punch the bore after every five rounds, or the groups will open up into something as big as a basketball. For the first five rounds, I'll get great groups of a bit under two inches at 100 yards, but it's all over the place after that.

I do, however, use a bunch of surplus spam can ammo from the '70s when I shoot it. When looking down the bore after firing each of the five rounds, it almost looks like I just got done firing black powder. My guess is that the fouling gets so heavy that it has a deleterious effect on consistency of POI.

I haven't run new commercial ammo ammo through it for comparisons sake, but I was wondering if those in invisible striations would cause fouling to accumulate more quickly because the other Mosin Nagant doesn't experience the same build-up as this one in question when I run the spam can ammo through it.
 

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Redhawk 100. I think you are absolutely correct. Bullet damage is one of the leading causes of accuracy issues with any rifle. Carbon particles in powder residue will accumulate in a bore and can definitely corrupt a bullet. Mosin Nagants are known for having lots of striations in the bore. I've seen a few with polished bores that were used as sniper rifles in WWII, which proves they can be exceptionally accurate, even with WWII Spam can ammo.
Thanks for helping make some sense of that. I'm hoping that the bore smooths out with use.
 

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This ideology is hammered into you by angry sergeants hating how lazy, sloppy young soldiers turn their weapons back in to the armorers, who are mad about having to do their jobs,
Cleaning a weapon is a user-level task. It is not the armorer's job. I would have crushed anyone who tried to make my armorers clean their weapon for them.
 
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