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I want to install the Choate M14 front sight Choate M14 Look-a-Like- Compensator - Blue For The Mini-14

It will be going on a 181 series which I REALLY don't want to damage at all. Would this puller work the best to remove the front sight and install the Choate? https://www.matrixprecisionparts.com/ruger/ruger-mini-14-and-mini-30-front-sight-removal-tool
I want to install the Choate M14 front sight Choate M14 Look-a-Like- Compensator - Blue For The Mini-14

It will be going on a 181 series which I REALLY don't want to damage at all. Would this puller work the best to remove the front sight and install the Choate? https://www.matrixprecisionparts.com/ruger/ruger-mini-14-and-mini-30-front-sight-removal-tool
I have taken front sights off my Mini's several times. Blue or stainless, drive out the roll pin and use a little heat from a propane torch and mine have basically fallen off.
dont see the need of paying for a puller.
 

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The factory sight has the roll pin on the top and the Choate has the roll pin on the bottom. You will have to drill a new hole through the barrel and the sight to fit it. Yes, there will be a new hole across the bottom on your barrel to pin the Choate on. I wouldn't call the barrel damaged but I would call it altered.
kwg
 

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You don't need a puller to get the old sight off. I've done a half dozen, either to install a Choate, or a Ruger winged sight and then thread the barrel for a flash hider.
I haven't had any just want to fall right off, usually a few taps with a short chunk of hardwood against the sight, then tap the other end of the hardwood with a hammer.

Getting the sight straight up (12 o'clock) is important, if it is canted a bit either way, you'll find you'll need the rear sight to be way over to the side when you go to sight in.
The M14 Choate look-a-like should have a set screw on the bottom, the shorter Choates do.
Get the sight as straight up as you can eyeball, then tighten the set screw on the bottom of the Choate.
Remove the Choate, then look where the set screw made a mark on the underside of the barrel. Take a small bit and drill a shallow dimple there, then reinstall the Choate.

The dimple will stay on while you go test fire to check the sight alignment. Even with the dimple drilled, I only got 18 shots before the Choate flew off the barrel and hit the dirt. You might not need to fire that many.
Once you know things are good, you can proceed to installing the roll pins.
It is very hard to drill a half circle on the underside of the barrel, as the small drill bits will want to skitter away.
You definitely need to use a drill press, sharp bits, and go very slowly. I had good results using a friend's Sherline hobby vertical mill machine.

There is an alternative method that is much easier than drilling. With the Choate on the barrel where it needs to be, and the set screw holding it, start the roll pins so they mark a mark on the barrel. Remove the Choate, and with a small file, file a groove where those marks are. The groove will be a V-shape using either a triangular file or the edge of a flat file, so you can finish up with a small round file to make the groove more round.

The two grooves should end up with a depth being half the diameter of the roll pins you are going to use.
Try putting the Choate back on and driving in the roll pins, if they are going in with too much difficulty, you might have to file the grooves a bit more. Obviously you want the roll pins to go in with some resistance, you don't want them to just fall in. It's better to go a little at a time than make the grooves too deep, you can't put material back on if you take too much off.

I've used the file method for the last couple Choates I did, and also for a couple Ruger winged sights that need a roll pin to secure them. While the Choate is nice in that you get a winged sight as part of the package, I much prefer to use a separate winged sight and then thread the barrel for a flash hider, that way you can change or remove the unit much easier if desired.
Before you install the Choate, check the crown. Ruger doesn't do the greatest job on the crown, I've improved on all the factory crowns using just a hand turned Brownell's cutter with handle and bore guide.


 
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