The monolit 28’s are safe to use in any choke, but slugs are generally more accurate when shot out of an improved cylinder or modified choke.
That's a relief. I'm glad I have a better understanding of how the interchangeable barrels work and which chokes are where and when they are best used.The monolit 28’s are safe to use in any choke, but slugs are generally more accurate when shot out of an improved cylinder or modified choke.
And just to be clear, I am speaking specifically about the use of monolit 28’s in a full choke, no other brand. As brnwlms stated read the warnings, do your due diligence before sending anything down the tube.That's a relief. I'm glad I have a better understanding of how the interchangeable barrels work and which chokes are where and when they are best used.
FWIW, Every Mossberg 500 slug barrel (rifle sights on barrel) I have ever seen has NO rifling inside the barrel. They have been (as marked) "cylinder bore" smooth.The barrels should be marked. Typically, the shorter barrels are slug barrels. Does it have rifling? A slug barrel has rifling in it. Your other barrel could be an improved cylinder, modified choke, or full choke. Not all shotguns have screw in chokes.
Thanks for the response! I knew a little about chokes and how they worked and whatnot, but you guys have really helped me understand it to the point I'm comfortable with ammo selection and whatnot. Your post in particular was very informative and thorough. I'm glad you got to have your "moment to shine" as the shotgun guy haha. So yeah, I'll keep the short, smooth bore barrel on at home with 00 Buck for home defense and when I'm hunting Turkey or grouse or other small game, I'll throw on the long barrel with the full choke and throw in some of my 2 3/4 inch shells with the 7 1/2 shot and pick up some 4, 5, and 6. As of now I only have the 7 1/2 shot in the 2 3/4 inch shells, 3 inch shells of 00 Buck, 3 inch shells of #4 Buck, some of those steel slugs I mentioned, another box of the 7 1/2 but they are the orange wad-tracker shells Winchester makes meant more for practicing your shot, and a few tracer shells. Most of the ammo I have on hand is Winchester except the #4 Buck which is Federal Premium. I fired a couple 00 Buck and a couple 7 1/2 out of the smooth bore the other day at the range just to give her a little action and keep the rust off since I took all my other guns and she still shoots great for what I paid and I could definitely tell how much more spread and less dense the pattern is vs full choke after becoming more educated in chokes.Disgustipated,
Hi. I sometimes feel like the odd man out around here, because 99% of my shooting is shotguns. Most people here seem to be handgun and rifle experts and aficionados. I only go through a few hundred rounds of pistol and .22 ammo a year, but literally order shotshells by the pallet. I just bought another 30 cases of shotshells for my kids' school trap shooting season. (Unfortunately it may be canceled due to the cornonavirus, but that's another thread.)
Start by reading Iowegan's excellent .pdf primer on chokes and shot size. That will answer much.
Your shotgun setup seems perfect as a do-all configuration.You have a tried-and-true pump-action with a short, "cylinder" (no choke constriction) barrel. That is an ideal defense setup with slugs and buckshot. A barrel that short is not something you would typically use for hunting and sporting purposes where you want the smooth swing of a balanced gun.
You also have a nice, long barrel with a fixed full choke constriction and chambered for 2 3/4" and 3" shells. That's perfect for trap shooting, turkey hunting, pheasants, and many other game birds. I personally would not shoot slugs or steel shot through an old fixed-full barrel, no matter how many people say it's "OK".
If you only shoot a handful of ducks and geese a year, you're much better off shooting Kent's outstanding bismuth shells at waterfowl. Cabela's/Bass Pro will ship them to your door or your nearest store. Yes they are expensive at $37 for a box of 25 3" magnum loads, but bismuth hits nearly as hard as lead, and patterns the same as lead, which means you'll get a useful pattern out of that full choke. A goose that falls dead to a single bismuth shot is better than the one you have to shoot a couple+ times with steel -- or the one that gets away wounded because you were using steel shot.
If you wanted to truly complete your setup, you could look online for a slightly shorter (26" or 28") barrel with a less constricted choke of, say, Improved Cylinder. That would give you a few more options for closer-flushing birds, steel shot, and close-range clay games such as sporting clays and skeet. (Yes, you will handicap yourself trying to shoot pairs of skeet targets with a pump, but it is a load of fun to try and do it!) People nowadays are weirded out by fixed choke barrels so sometimes used ones can be picked up at a bargain.
Keep in mind, there is nothing wrong with a fixed choke barrel! Don't go trying to make the barrel "better" by having someone install a screw-in choke.
First of all, the 'full' stamp on the barrel doesn't mean anything until you pattern test it. Many barrels and chokes marked in a certain way will actually shoot a constriction or two tighter, or wider, than what the markings mean.
Second of all, you can make huge changes in the way your gun patterns simply by trying different shells. There are big differences in the way bird / sporting shells pattern simply because of differences in the wad (harder vs. softer plastic, stitched vs. un-stitched wad petals), differences in the shot (low versus high antimony content), and probably a dozen other factors. You can even buy "spreader" loads with wads that are designed to open up quickly. When I'm hunting early season pheasants, I usually keep a spreader load of #7 shot in the chamber, then 1.25 ounces of #5 or 6 thereafter.
To really know how your barrel/choke patterns, you need to shoot several patterning shots at the ranges you're going to shoot, and with the shells you intend to use. A couple years ago I spent considerable time testing a variety of loads, and found huge variations in the way shells performed. I also found huge variations in the quality (consistency and sphericity) of the shot pellets.
As a general rule, you get what you pay for. Winchester AA trap shells at ~$7.95 a box are much better dove loads than the cheap Wally World bulk packs. With hard (high antimony), consistent and spherical shot, they throw a dense pattern with no "holes" that tiny doves can fly through.
Here are the copious results of my testing, for your reading pleasure, once you have finished Iowegan's primer.
Addendum... I was going to ask you what you plan to use the gun for, but then I re-read one of your responses where you say, "I do want to get back into small game and spring and fall Turkey hunting rather than just deer." There's nothing wrong at all with that full choke barrel for those purposes. Full is a great choke for turkeys. And it can do very well for small game with a light,
I usually do make sure to read all the details regarding ammo if I'm not real familiar with it. The 12 Guage was used so I was out of luck there. But during the time I purchased the steelheads, I was under the impression that both of my barrels were just smooth bore and barely even knew chokes existed and thought they were always purchased (and added as opposed to built in) until my buddy stopped by on his way cayote hunting and explained chokes to me more. As a kid, I mostly deer hunted but if we would go Turkey, grouse, or squirrel hunting, my dad always just handed me the 20 guage that he would let me use and probably always had it set up for me. But yeah, definitely now I know to really pay close attention as to what the rounds are recommended for choke-wise and whatnot before making the purchase. I always thought shotguns were very cut and dry but it turns out theres a good bit more to them than I thought. It's kind of funny that I built my own AR15, did a trigger job on my GP100 by myself, and field strip and clean every firearm I own after using it, and yet i barely understood what a choke was. I guess it really shows we dont always know as much as we think we do...especially in my case. But I'm always trying to learn more and it's nice to have good folks willing to help with that. Take care!To take Mark204’s comment to the next level, read all the instructions and warnings on ammo and guns as far as recommendations, do’s/dont’s etc. For instance on your steel slugs, if shooting them through a full choke would potentially damage a firearm, that warning should have been printed on the package.
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Your welcome.... when I'm hunting Turkey or grouse or other small game, I'll throw on the long barrel with the full choke and throw in some of my 2 3/4 inch shells with the 7 1/2 shot and pick up some 4, 5, and 6. As of now I only have the 7 1/2 shot in the 2 3/4 inch shells
Another thing I wonder though and maybe you can answer this (honestly I'm just curious), is does the longer barrel also help with keeping a pattern tighter and more dense?
Thanks again for the awesome reply and info!
Iowegan makes a good point here. It's easy to mistakenly think that a long-distance target calls for smaller shot size, which -- you think -- would get you a denser pattern and more pellets on the target even after they spread out. But that would be wrong. A far target calls for a tighter choke and bigger shot (but still at sane speeds that don't blow your pattern.) The bigger pellets will retain velocity and energy much farther out.In a nutshell, here's the concept for shotguns: except for buckshot, the distance to the target determines the size of the shot …. larger pellets for longer distances.
Coming late to this thread, but lately I've been modifying my old New Haven, the first firearm I ever purchased. My gun came with a long "bird" barrel and a select-a-choke. I removed this barrel after hunting season and put on an 18" 500 barrel from Corson's. Off season it's a home-defense / snake gun.I was just going over my experience with purchasing my first guns and specifically when it comes to my 12 guage, I've had a puzzling question on my mind for awhile now and need some of the wisdom and knowledge some of you have of you dont mind sharing it. So can any of you shotgun aficionados can shed some light on if it makes sense that my 1980's Mossberg 600AT New Haven (basically Mossberg 500 pump) seems to have no threads for a choke? Thanks