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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After I Upgraded my 10/22 I started having a frequent, intermittent 5 shot burst when the trigger was pulled once.

While very cool, this is not how i want my gun to act as to me it is slightly unsafe (Wish i had a button to make it do that)

I changed the following parts,

1. Kidd Trigger Job Kit
2. Kidd Bolt w/ firing pin & extractor
3. Kidd extended Bolt Handle & Rod & spring

I called Kidd today, and Let them know about the problem.

I thought it might be a pre-travel adjustment not letting the sear reset fully

Kidd said it was the Hammer spring & Hammer spring rod, In the back of the trigger housing there is a relief hole for the trigger spring to go in to when the bolt is pulled back.

If that Hammer spring rod stick out of the hold even a couple of thousandths of an inch, it can cause a slam fire.

I checked mine today and it has a few thousands sticking out past the edge of the hole,

i milled that small amount off till it was slightly under

I will take it out and see if it is fixed.
 

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Wish I could get a 10/22 that fired 5 round bursts! :D

But, not having it at your descretion is a problem. Definitely sounds like a sear reset problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kidd assured me that the trigger adjustment was correct and to try this first
 

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Well god on Kidd for helping you to fix it! While is is not uncommon for rimfires to full auto under the right conditions it can be hard on them.
I was working on a (OLD) Savage .22 auto rifle this summer for a lady that had found it in a barn, it was her grandpa's and she wanted it cleaned, bluing touched up and everything working well to give to her dad for fathers day. Had it looking great, stock refinished and feeding dummies perfectly. Took it out for a test fire, first few single shot went okay, next few semi-auto went great, then RAPPPPPPPTTTT!!!! It ripped off seven or so rounds, a sharp firing pin that was also too long pierced a case, shot gas back into the action, cut my hand and blasted the bolt handle off, which flew back at supprising speed into my safety glasses and knocked them off. I always wear safety rated sunglasses it work, they have saved me twice now. That was enough to convince me that random full auto rimfires are a terrible idea, as well as double checking that the firing pin is not too sharp. I don't need that much excitement in my life, if thats what a rimfire can do feom a pierced primer i don't ever want to see anything bigger do it!
 

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After I Upgraded my 10/22 I started having a frequent, intermittent 5 shot burst when the trigger was pulled once.

While very cool, this is not how i want my gun to act as to me it is slightly unsafe (Wish i had a button to make it do that)

I changed the following parts,

1. Kidd Trigger Job Kit
2. Kidd Bolt w/ firing pin & extractor
3. Kidd extended Bolt Handle & Rod & spring

I called Kidd today, and Let them know about the problem.

I thought it might be a pre-travel adjustment not letting the sear reset fully

Kidd said it was the Hammer spring & Hammer spring rod, In the back of the trigger housing there is a relief hole for the trigger spring to go in to when the bolt is pulled back.

If that Hammer spring rod stick out of the hold even a couple of thousandths of an inch, it can cause a slam fire.

I checked mine today and it has a few thousands sticking out past the edge of the hole,

i milled that small amount off till it was slightly under

I will take it out and see if it is fixed.
Very interesting to say the least...

My understanding of the term slam-fire is a firing pin stuck forward such that when the bolt closes even tho the hammer does not strike the firing pin the firing pin hits the primer which of course repeats until it runs dry or jambs...letting of the trigger won't stop it...

The reason I say this is because I have had an sks for a long time and that is something everyone with an sks has to be aware of due to some bolts getting enough rust up to freeze up the firing pin...

Also...this is pretty new to me...I did get and install an adjustable sear in mine not too long ago...it is my experience to date that if I adjust the sear to far the trigger will not reset at all...so I could be wrong but it seems to me that not resetting would not allow it to fire again...but it sounds like you are thinking that the sear adjustment would prevent the hammer from being held back and thus repeating the action...which may be true...I don't know...however, it would seem to me that letting off the trigger in that case would not stop it from firing as well...that is pure speculation on my part...just interested in knowing the facts so that is why I am stating my thoughts...

I think I follow you on the part you shaved down but not truly following the reasoning...

More information would be great if and when you have it...

Also...one question about your Kidd trigger...is that the $90 package of sear/hammer/trigger...I know the trigger has an post travel stop screw...I am curious to know if the sear has an adjustable screw in it also...

One more thing...

If it continues to happen...you might want to see if you can make it happen with the trigger pinched between thumb/forefinger by placing thumb behind trigger guard...if it absolutely won't repeat fire with trigger held firmly against the stop but will happen otherwise it will tell you something about what the mechanism is...or isn't...

Maybe you should get a license and just go full auto...looks like fun to me.. :D

RUGER 10/22 Full-Auto Conversion DVD - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Kidd says that the hammer spring plunger being to long and sticking out the hole in the trigger guard will hit the stock and cause the hammer to have a short multiple round burst.

i have a SKS and AK's too, it was more of a burst fire that was just to get an idea of what was happeneing.

His fix is to make sure that no part of the hammer spring plunger protrude through the rear trigger guard, mine had a very small amount while i did not measure it it may have been a few .000ths"

I will no more when i test it at the range one day this week

It was a Kidd Trigger job Kit, yes it was about $90.00 he has them on sale from time to time.
Ruger 10/22 "trigger job" kit

I want to make sure that it is not just the loose trigger behind the trigger, Me

the new trigger is Light, and very smooth, i may be pressing the trigger more than once do to it being VERY light and me not being used to it yet.

If that is the case i may dial in a small amount more pre-travel

The Kidd trigger Feels Great, I think it will be excellent once i get it to stop with the Burst firing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here Is a picture of my triplets.

Yea I know they aren't rimfires. But still nice

Top to bottom

AK47 Hungarian AMD-65 side folder I have two of these, This gun will shoot with the Stock folded
SKS In a Bull PUP SG Works stock VERY Nice Stock, its a Russian 1953' it is very short now in the Bull pup stock and is very quick to acquire a target & shoot,
AR15 Underfolder stock 5.56/.223 keltec SU16C, This gun will shoot with the Stock folded

Yea I like short, Im 6' tall the wife is 4'11" yea I like short, shes not short she was just picked to soon

I dont care for the Muzzlelite bullpup or i would have one, I would like to make a 10/22 project, VERY SHORT stock That i can get a good cheek weld on, and a 16.5" barrel, and as light as possible, Tech sights for the Marlin mounted to a P-rail,
 

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I told you we were on the same overall path... :D:D:D

Remember I said I would go past the 22 to get something else if shtf...

EDITWhat I THINK I would like to do with my sks (currently in a ati dragonuv and way too heavy for me with my left arm problems) is a Tapco thumbhole walnut stock...it is the 20" barrel plus a muzzle brake...I would like to have it cut down to 16" including the muzzle brake and get a thumbhole stock similar to the Fajen I have now for the 10/22 which I really like a lot...

The reason I absolutely want to revert to ghost ring and post for short range use is that IMO...there is no reason to have any auto-loader that can't double duty as a battle rifle if called upon...yes I want to use mine for SB silhouette and want it to be as much of a target rifle as possible...but if that were my primary reason for modifying a 22...it would NOT be an auto loader...!

Light weight is absolute necessity for me to be able to shoot off hand more than a few shots...bench rest shooting only interest me for evaluation/tuning...it is incredibly boring otherwise for me...just no fun...gotta have fun...gotta be able to lay down a lot of fire...gotta be able to stand out in the heat for hours trying to shoot small steels at distances greater than the accuracy of my gun and ability...therefore comfort is absolutely number one priority...

I am finding that with the right set up...the shortest lop I make fit me is the most comfortable for endurance and accurate off hand shooting both...

Don't want to change the subject here...so I will quit now...and get back with later to compare notes on short/light/battle ready... :D

Also hoping to compare notes with you on triggers...mine is essentially the same as yours only different brand and I am very interested in the fine details of which parts are better and why...another thread for sure...

It is easy to have what I would call a "recoil induced double tap" with a light trigger pull if you don't get your finger completely off the trigger between shots...but 5 rounds is a whole different story...I seriously doubt if it is you...but I think the "pinch test" defines that...if it can fire twice with the trigger pinched vise like to the rear you KNOW it is the gun and not your finger...just one step in trouble shooting...worth doing IMO to prove to oneself where the problem does or doesn't lie...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had my SKS in a Tapco T6 Intrafuse Stock Black, but now it resides in the SGW Bull Pup stock, i had to wait almost a year for that stock to be mfr'd.
 

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This is my 10/22 as it is now but the picture is one with the temporary cheek rest being worked on...it's 34" long and weighs 5lb 6oz with the scope and a loaded 10 round mag...the LOP is currently just under 13"...overall weight is very important to me...however, balance is just as important to me...the aluminum barrel is not the ultimate tack driver...at least not for me...hoping I will find the "best" ammo for it...right now I can barely stay under 2" groups at 100 meters... 1.5 to 1.8 typical with mini-mags... 7/8" with super x 1435...however...the aluminum barrel is IT for light weight AND balance...factory barrel is 28oz...the one in the pic is 14oz...

It's under 5 lbs loaded with iron sights...

The Fajen stock is heavier than the Ruger DSP stock...even after I cut it down some and removed the butt extension piece...however...that stock is very solid...very, very solid...the grip and heel drop are are fabulous IMO...

Still working on making it lighter...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Have you seen the Tapco stock I am talking about...it's not tactical...it's a thumbhole silhouette walnut stock...you are not interested in it for yourself I know that...but this is what works best for me on all counts...

TAPCO® INTRAFUSE® - SKS Thumbhole Stock - Right Handed Model, Brown Laminate

It is what I want with a compensated "paratrooper" barrel 16" overall length with compensator...
 

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I went and checked my plunger...holding the bolt back as far as possible it comes out of the hole .001-.002" at most...

On mine the hole is in a concave section of the casting and it would have to come out .015" to contact anything on the stock...

I can see where the blow back force of the bolt could make it go a lot further than "static" pressure by hand...

This is extremely interesting stuff... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice shooter you got there ZommyGun,

I like those thumb hole target stocks

I had a chance to shoot one at the range, my fist impression was this is Very ergonomic & comfortable to shoot, it just fit me very well.

The thumb hole pistol grip and raised cheek rest all go to provide a lot of comfort.

The better that you can pull the rifle into your body and have everything fit you and have a great hold on it the better shot you should be able to take.

I like the raised cheek rest.

My guns are all a work in progress,
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
My next project Gun is my 10/22TD it will get the ATI strike force stock, if you are not familiar it has a Pistol grip adjustable butt stock and adjustable cheek weld, also is a side folding stock Vert. front grip w/ integral bi-pod that retracts or extends up in side the vertical grip

Some Modifications are required :)

This stock paired with my 10/22 Take Down should be a good fit, stock they are 4.6 Lbs. I will keep the stock S.S. barrel

Sights will be Tech Sights on a P-Rail. I will be using the Tech Sight for the Marlin as it is a rail mounted unit, and a scope Nikon P22 co-witnessed. Everything is getting thumb screws or Flat head screws for easy tool less or one tool take down, or use a Dime

I dont want to much stuff to make it heavy, but on the plus side that stuff can be taken off.

I want everything on this gun to be able to be removed and broken down with a very Limited amount of tools. I want carefully select thumb screws or flat blade screws, to be able to use either a Dime or a flat blade screw driver to field dis-assemble.

This will be my Bug out Gun, I can carry a lot .22 Ammo and Magazines in the bag that came with the 10/22 Take Down gun

I want to have almost every option possible with this gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I need that full auto 10/22 conversion so i can cut watermelons for guests at the next BBQ at the house.

Or maybe for carving Pumpkins at Halloween

NICE!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
This is my fun plinker/ bug out gun/home protection well besides my two shotguns

The two bottom guns fit that category.

The Black one is a 9mm Carbine rifle it is short, it takes Glock 9mm Mags, in the picture are 17 &33 round mags for it as you can see it folds down to a very small package in comparison to my 10/22, unfortunately it will Not shoot folded.

It is very accurate and easy to shoot and hit target with it, not a lot of recoil

The 9mm Carbine has a Moving Bolt in the stock similar to the Ruger Mark series

The pistol is a S&W M&P9C 9MM Compact and I also have a few Glock 9MM pistols that share the same magazines with the 9mm Carbine rifle
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
That is only a sample, i like to collect guns.

My short 10/22 project will have to Wait and come after the current 10/22 Take down project that is already been started on since i have the gun already

Since a 10/22 does not have any recoil to speak of, my next rifle will be almost stock less.

Just enough for a good cheek weld (No More) and to get a good sight picture, this will bring the rifle in real close to your body, since it will be that much closer to you,

you will hold this rifle via pistol grip and vertical grip mounted to a tri-rail close to the end of the barrel, and will use the cheek weld, again sights will be Tech Sights, being Marlin style P-rail mount & Red dot, Co-witnessed together.

I should be able to get the weight down to the sub 4 Lb. mark or less, Weight is top priority, but it has to be SHORT, that is the goal,

I will use a Green Mountain 16.5" alum barrel.
 

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I didn't know GM made an aluminum barrel...

I know Whistle Pig makes them too...and probably more accurate...although I am not sure about that part...you can get 17" Whistle Pig with compensator cut into the barrel...sweet...

I didn't get threaded or compensated due to wanting to shoot SBS...rules don't allow muzzle brakes...probably due to noise...not sure...

Also...I cut the fore end down on that stock some and took off 2oz...SBS rules require 8" out from receiver...otherwise it would be a lot shorter...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I do not have a GM barrel, just fingered they had them in a alum barrel, went on to their site and they do not.

I also went on to Whistling pig site, they have some nice stuff there.

4140 steel. inner liner and a 6061T6 Alum outer shroud, very nice, i could go for that with a threaded barrel, and a muzzle break.

I am happy to see that the wear part of the barrel is 4140 steel, and with alum outer shroud it should be very durable & light.

1 ounce of barrel weight for every 1 inch of barrel length. 18" long barrel = 18oz weight or 1-Lb 2-oz

I wonder how much a 18" OEM Ruger steel barrel weights

Just found it Stock 18" barrel weight is, 1-Lb -15.7oz or 2-Lbs, close enough, so a 16.5" Whistling Pig barrel would be half the weight, weighing in at 1-Lb

1-Lb, that is a substantial amount of weight (especially if i can eliminate it) that is extended out and must be held up. Not sure what the weight reduction of my very small stock would be, but it may be only a couple of ounces.

So stock weight for a 18" OEM barrel is 1.78 oz per inch of barrel vs WP 16.5" 1-oz per inch of barrel, so .80 of a lb if both were 16.5" long

I should be able to get my Light 25/22 project down Under the 3.5-Lb range.

I saw two really Nice newer 10/22's yesterday at the pawn shop, they had five of them, but only two of them were nice the others were beat, I may go back and see if i can get one of them for my next project, I will tear them down in the pawn shop and inspect them torn down, if i can get one of them for $150.00 or less, I may go for it.

I already found someone that has the stock to sell me
 
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