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Discussion Starter #1
I've been looking through the parts breakdown for both the P345, and the P345D models and the only variation that I can see is the that safety model has a detent pin and plunger on the lever. If I'm understanding this correctly, both levers are spring loaded want to pop up after being applied, but the "lawyer" version has the detent so that you actually have to physically put pressure on the lever to break the detent hold so the lever flips up. Does anyone one know if this if correct?
If it is, has anyone tried removing just the detent and spring to convert their safety to a decock only?
I'm not sure that I'd want to do this, but I've noticed that some people find it a bit of a nuisance to remember to flip the safety off.

-kelly
 

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I've had both.

The "safety" model has a detent to hold the lever in the "down" (so-called "safe") position, and the lever return spring is somewhat weaker than the decocker model.

The decocker (which I currently have) does not have the "safe" detent and has a much stronger lever return spring.

The "safety" model that I had lacked a detent to retain the safety in the "off" position, and the return spring was too weak to guarantee that it would remain in fully in the "off" position (mine was a very early production model, so things could have changed over time).

I don't own any of the Ruger pistols of the "safety" design. I cannot convince my thumb that down means "safe" and up means "fire"--it just ain't right!!! I can live with the decockers because the levers aren't safeties and are never in the "down" position unless held there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yah that doesn't make sense to me either about safe being down. I checked the manuals again and both list the same part number for the spring. Presumably they're using the same spring now if they weren't before. I might try pulling the detent and detent spring and see if it works like a D model. If it does, I might be able to live with it. The hammer is so hard, I don't see any chance of it accidentally getting cocked.
Does anyone know how the two halves of the safety levers are stuck together? In the parts diagram, it doesn't look like much more than a friction fit.

-kelly
 

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As I recall, the rear-most portion of the ejector rides in a grove in the right lever. You have to remove the ejector in order to remove the right-most lever.

If you want to go deeper inside your Ruger than the standard field-strip, I strongly recommend you invest in an armorer's manual or one of the how-to videos such as:

http://gunvideo.com/index.php?categ...umbs=&filter_1=&filter_2=&filter_3=&filter_4=

It is a lot easier to be "shown" how to do this sort of thing than it is to be "told" how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, Thanks OldNavy! I'll look into that, looks like money well invested.
-kelly
 
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